Publications

Coastal hazards such as flooding and erosion can cause large economic and human losses. Under this threat, early warning systems can be very cost-effective solutions for disaster preparation. The goal of this study was to develop, test, and implement an operational coastal erosion early warning system supported by a particular method of machine learning. Thus, the system combines Bayesian Networks, and state-of-the-art numerical models, such as XBeach and SWAN, to predict storm erosion impacts in urbanized areas. This system was developed in two phases. In the development phase, all information required to apply the machine learning method was generated including the definition of hundreds of oceanic synthetic storms, modeling of the erosion caused by these storms, and characterization of the impact levels according to a newly defined eerosion iimpact index. This adimensional index relates the distance from the edge of the dune/beach scarp to buildings and the height of that scarp. Finally, a Bayesian Network that acted as a surrogate of the previously generated information was built. After the training of the network, the conditional probability tables were created. These tables constituted the ground knowledge to make the predictions in the second phase. This methodology was validated (1) by comparing 6-h predictions obtained with the Bayesian Network and with process-based models, the latest considered as the benchmark, and (2) by assessing the predictive skills of the Bayesian Network through the unbiased iterative k-fold cross-validation procedure. Regarding the first comparison, the analysis considered the entire duration of three large storms whose return periods were 10, 16, and 25 years, and it was observed that the Bayesian Network correctly predicted between 64% and 72% of the impacts during the course of the storms, depending on the area analyzed. Importantly, this method was also able to identify when the hazardous conditions disappeared after predicting potential consequences. Regarding the Regarding the second validation approach, second validation approach, the k-fold cross-validation procedure was applied to the peak of a set of varying storms and it demonstrated that the predictive skills were maximized (63%

A wave flume is used to study a scaled model of a stepped bottom dual-chamber Oscillating Water Column (OWC) installed onshore. Compared to traditional single-chamber OWCs, the use of dual-chambers is expected to widen the range of sea states in which the OWC is more efficient, and the step, in front of the first chamber, boosts the capturing energy capacity of the device. The Power Take-Off (PTO) system is modelled as an air opening in the pneumatic chambers. Several experiments combining regular incident waves and PTO damping conditions are performed. Results of the amplitudes of the free surface elevations inside the chambers show that the device can amplify the incident wave amplitude up to 1.57 times in chamber 2. Results of the primary efficiency show that the device is highly dependent on the PTO damping characteristics and can reach around 40% for a wide range of wave periods. Results of the reflection analysis show that the reflection coefficient is also dependent on the PTO damping characteristics but remain lower than 0.6 for all the studied cases. Sloshing phenomenon (mostly in the cross-section direction) was observed for a wavelength close to the cross-section dimension, impacting negatively on the device pneumatic performance.

Performance and hydrodynamics of an array of Oscillating Water Column (OWC) Wave Energy Converter (WEC) integrated into a vertical breakwater is studied. The FLUENT® software, in which the numerical model is based on the Reynolds-Averaged Navier-Stokes equations and the Volume of Fluid method for free surface flow modeling, is used in a 3D numerical wave tank. Three vertical breakwater configurations subject to the action of incident regular waves with periods from 6 to 12 s are studied: normal breakwater, with vertical walls parallel to the direction along the breakwater length; and two novel breakwater geometries, partially and fully convergent breakwaters, whose converging vertical walls are inclined

This study aims to validate a numerical model based on Reynolds-averaged Navier

Storms impacting sandy coastal areas produce hazards such as erosion and overwash that, in turn, promote risk to life and property damage in occupied areas. Coastal damage and risks willincrease in the future not only in association with climate change but also due to the growinghuman occupation in coastal areas (van Dongeren et al., 2018). Since the threatened coastal areas are often densely populated, there is a need to implement measures to prevent risks. One of such measures is the use of Early Warning Systems (EWS) that anticipate expected risks and, therefore, work as management tools to minimize or avoid disaster. This work presents the basis of an EWS prototype to alert about the potential consequences of overwash/overtopping and erosion induced by storms, in coastal areas.

Beaches combined with sloping structures are frequently the frst element of defense to protect urban areas from the impact of extreme coastal fooding events. However, these structures are rarely designed for null wave overtopping discharges, accepting that waves can pass above the crest and threat exposed elements in hinterland areas, such as pedestrians, urban elements and buildings, and vehicles. To reduce risks, Early Warning Systems (EWSs) can be used to anticipate and minimize the impacts of fooding episodes on those elements. A key aspect of these systems is the defnition of non-admissible discharge levels that trigger signifcant impacts. However, large discrepancies in defning these discharge levels and the associated impacts are found among the existing methods to assess foodings. Due to the lack of standardization, a new conceptual and quantitative four-level (from no-impact to high-impact) categorization of food warnings (EW-Coast) is proposed. EW-Coast integrates and unifes previous methods and builds on them by incorporating feld-based information. Thus, the new categorization successfully predicted the impact level on 70%, 82%, and 85% of the overtopping episodes afecting pedestrians, urban elements and buildings, and vehicles, respectively. This demonstrates its suitability to support EWSs in areas vulnerable to wave-induced fooding.

During physical scale model tests of rubble mound breakwaters, the assessment of the eroded volume of the armour layer subjected to incident sea waves can be determined from consecutive surveys of the surface of the armour layer after each test run. This enables one to assess the damage level of the struc ture by comparing erosion profiles and by the eroded volume between consecutive surveys of the tested section. The present study aimed to evaluate the damage evolu tion of a section of the Peniche harbour west breakwater, whose armour layer is made of tetrapods, A dimensionless damage parameter was computed, based on the eroded volume at the end of each test. The test program consisted of three test series (A, B and C) with different durations and wave conditions sequences, considering the low-water level (water depth of 0.20 m at the toe of the structure) and high-water level (0.24 m) and sea states with peak periods Tp = 1.70 s and Tp = 1.98 s and significant wave heights, Hm0, ranging between 0.12 m and 0.19 m. The model was built and operated according to Froude

Melby presents a formula to predict damage evolution in rubble-mound breakwaterswhose armour layer is made of rock, based on the erosion measured in scale-model tests and thecharacteristics of the incident sea waves in such tests. However, this formula is only valid for armourlayers made of rock and for the range of tested sea states. The present work aims to show howthe Melby methodology can be used to establish a similar formula for the armour layer damageevolution in a rubble-mound breakwater where tetrapods are employed. For that, a long-durationtest series is conducted with a 1:50 scale model of the quay section of the Ericeira Harbour breakwater.The eroded volume of the armour layer was measured using a Kinect position sensor. The damageparameter values measured in the experiments are lower than those predicted by the formulationfor rock armour layers. New ap and b coefficients for the Melby formula for the tested armour layerwere established based on the minimum root mean square error between the measured and thepredicted damage. This work shows also that it is possible to assess the damage evolution in scale model tests with rubble-mound breakwaters by computing the eroded volume and subsequently, thedimensionless damage parameter based on the equivalent removed armour units.

The objective of this work is the comparison of two methodologies used for run-up measurements in a two-dimensional physical model, which represented the protection breakwaters of the Peniche and Ericeira

Coastal flooding prediction systems can be an efficient risk-reduction instrument. The goal of this study was to design, build, test, and implement a wave-induced flooding early warning system in urban areas fronted by sandy beaches. The system utilizes a novel approach that combines Bayesian Networks and numerical models (SWAN + XBeach) and was developed in two phases. In the development phase, firstly, the learning information was generated including the creation of oceanic conditions, modeling overtopping discharges, the haracterization of the associated im pacts (no, low, moderate and high) in pedestrians, urban components and buildings, and vehicles, and secondly, the Bayesian Networks were designed that surrogated the previously generated information. After their training, the conditional probability tables were created representing the foundation to make predictions in the operational phase. This methodology was validated for several historical events which hit the study area (Praia de Faro, Portugal), and the system correctly predicted the impact level of around 80% of the cases. Also, the predictive skills varied depending on the level, with the no and high impact levels overcoming the intermediate levels. In terms of efficiency, one simulation (deterministic) of coastal flooding for 72 h by running SWAN + XBeach operationally would take more than two days on a one-logical processor workstation, while the current approach can provide quasi-instantaneously predictions for that period, including probability distributions. Moreover, the two-working phase approach is very flexible enabling the inclusion of additional features such as social components representing a powerful tool for risk reduction in coastal communities.

This work presents the development of a numerical integrated system to help prevent emergency situations and minimize risks associated with sea waves

Neste trabalho estuda-se o galgamento em estruturas marítimas verticais impermeáveis através da aplicação do modelo numérico AMAZON, que é um modelo bidimensional, baseado na resolução das equações não lineares de águas pouco profundas. Para validar a sua aplicação, os resultados de caudal médio galgado obtidos com o modelo foram comparados com os resultados de ensaios em modelo físico bidimensional realizados anteriormente e disponíveis na base de dados do projeto europeu CLASH. Os resultados foram ainda comparados com os das fórmulas empíricas / semi-empíricas de Van der Meer & Bruce (2014), Goda (2008) e de Hedges & Reis (Reis et al., 2013). A fórmula de Van der Meer & Bruce apresenta melhores aproximações aos caudais médios medidos que constam na base de dados do CLASH, seguida da fórmula de Goda e dos resultados do AMAZON, embora estes dois últimos apresentem valores bastante próximos. Assim, enquanto não se fizerem melhorias no modelo e/ou não se estender a outros ensaios a análise feita no âmbito deste trabalho, os resultados sugerem que não há vantagem na sua utilização face às formulações disponíveis, tendo também em conta o tempo computacional significativo exigido para executar o AMAZON.

O projeto HYDRALAB+ (H2020-INFRAIA-2014-2015) reúne uma rede Europeia de institutos de hidráulica para o estudo de estratégias de adaptação às alterações climáticas através de ensaios experimentais e cujos resultados são essenciais para a calibração e validação de modelos numéricos, fórmulas empíricas, redes neuronais, etc. Os ensaios experimentais desenvolvidos no LNEC, no âmbito do HYDRALAB+, Tarefa 8.2 do RECIPE tem como objetivo a análise do dano num quebra-mar de talude, do galgamento e do espraiamento para quatro cenários de temporal correspondentes a situações extremas associadas a cenários de alterações climáticas. Os ensaios foram realizados num canal de ondas irregulares no qual foiimplementada uma secção transversal do quebra-mar, com um manto constituído por enrocamento.No presente estudo comparam-se os valores do galgamento medidos nos ensaios em modelo físico com resultados estimados por fórmulas empíricas. Testou-se o efeito de um temporal num cenário de alterações climático, através do aumento da altura significativa de onda com o aumento do nível de água. Foi testado um conjunto de condições de agitação incidentes em combinação com dois níveis de maré.A análise dos resultados é feita com o intuito de estimar com precisão a ocorrência de galgamento em quebra-mares, um fenómeno que ainda se torna mais relevante em cenários de alterações climáticas. Com efeito, nestes cenários é previsível a subida do nível médio do mar, bem como o aumento da intensidade e frequência de temporais, o que pode dar origem a fenómenos de espraiamento/galgamento cada vez mais frequentes, tornando assim cada vez mais vulneráveis as estruturas de proteção costeiras e portuárias, bem como as zonas por elas protegidas.

Este trabalho pretende mostrar os procedimentos utilizados pelo sistema HIDRALERTA para a previsão dos galgamentos costeiros, bem como as ferramentas que têm sido utilizadas para a sua validação. Foram reproduzidas com o sistema as situações de tempestades passadas, para as quais houve relatos documentados de galgamentos significativos e que causaram danos. Esta simulação permitiu perceber a fiabilidade global do sistema e ajustar os limites pré- estabelecimentos para o acionamento de alertas. Com o sistema operacional desde 2015, a documentação que tem sido levantada, através de fotografias e vídeos, pelas autoridades e comunidade locais aquando da previsão da ocorrência de tempestades, têm sido um grande contributo para o melhoramento do sistema. Foi instalado no campo, um sistema de videovigilância que permite detetar e captar automaticamente imagens de galgamentos para comparar com os resultados do sistema. De forma complementar, para avaliação da agitação marítima, utilizam-se as medições da boia ondógrafo instalada junto ao porto e para a validação do fenómeno do galgamento, compararam-se as medições obtidas nos ensaios em modelo físico do perfil tipo do quebra-mar sul, com os resultados da ferramenta neuronal NN_OVERTOPPING2 (Coeveld et al., 2005) (atualmente incorporada no sistema) e com o modelo numérico SWASH (Zijlema et al., 2011) (que se encontra em processo de implementação).

This paper studies novel ways to evaluate armour damage in physical models of coastal structures. High-esolution damage data for reference rubble mound breakwaters obtained under the HYDRALAB+ joint-esearch project are analysed and discussed. These tests are used to analyse the way to describe damage, the influence of the sequence of testing, and touches on the possible influence of sea level rise. Results of two test programmes were used. Firstly, 3D physical model tests carried out at the University of Porto, in cooperation with Deltares, were used. Here a wide breakwater trunk was used for statistical reasons. Additionally, 2D test results from LNEC were analysed. Tests for a sea level rise scenario resulted in less damage to the seaside slope. In addition, clear differences between

Nesta comunicação, analisa-se, recorrendo à modelação física e à modelação numérica, a interação hidrodinâmica entre dois navios, um dos quais parado, o navio

In this study, a numerical analysis to evaluate the energy efficiency of an Oscillating Water Column (OWC) wave energy converter is carried out. The device geometry is based on the pilot plant installed on Pico Island, Azores, Portugal. The methodology consists in calculating the percentage of the incident energy that is distributed along the wave energy conversion. The FLUENT® numerical model, which is based on the Reynolds-Averaged Navier-Stokes (RANS) equations, is used. The Volume of Fluid (VoF) method is employed to take into account the water and air fluids. The case study comprises a flume 10 m deep with an onshore OWC at its end. The distribution of the incident wave energy (1 m wave height with a 9 s period) is determined in terms of reflected wave energy, water column oscillation potential energy, pneumatic energy and energy losses due to viscosity and turbulence dissipations. Results show that the incident wave energy is distributed around 37% for the sum of reflected wave energy and viscosity energy loss, 52% for pneumatic energy and 11% for water column oscillation potential energy.

The most studied device used for extracting wave energy is the Oscillating Water Column (OWC). In general, numerical simulations of these cases by means of models based on Reynolds-Averaged-Navier-Stokes (RANS) equations adopt the Volume of Fluid (VoF) method to take into account the water and air whose flows are incompressible. The aim of this study is to investigate the influence of the compressibility effect on the air inside the chamber by means of FLUENT® numerical model. Both water and air flows are still considered incompressible, but, at every instant, a pressure based on an analytical equation that takes into account the turbine characteristic relation (kt) of a Wells turbine and the isentropic transformation of the air is imposed on the top boundary of the chamber. Incident waves with period of 9 s and 1 and 2 m high are imposed in a flume 10 m deep with an onshore OWC at its end (kt = 240 Pa s m-3). Results show differences between incompressible and compressible air around 12% in the air pressure amplitude inside the chamber and about 21% in the average pneumatic power.

Reliable prediction of wave run-up/overtopping and structure damage is a key task in the design and safety assessment of coastal and harbor structures. Run-up/overtopping and damage must be below acceptable limits, both in extreme and in normal operating conditions, to guarantee the stability of the structure as well as the safety of people and assets on and behind the structure. The mean-sea-level rise caused by climate change and its effects on wave climate may increase run-up/overtopping events and make the existing coastal/harbour structures more vulnerable to damage. Accurate estimates, through physical modelling, of the statistics of overtopping waves for a set of climate change conditions, are needed. Project HYDRALAB+ (H2020-INFRAIA-2014-2015) gathers an advanced network of environmental hydraulic institutes in Europe, which provides access to a suite of environmental hydraulic facilities. They play a vital role in the development of climate change adaptation strategies, by allowing the direct testing of adaptation measures and by providing data for numerical model calibration and validation. The use of physical (scale) models allows the simulation of extreme events as they are now, and as they are projected to be under different climate change scenarios. The experimental work developed at LNEC within HYDRALAB+, TASK 8.2 of RECIPE, entitled

O conhecimento das características de propagação, transformação e rebentação das ondas próximo da costa é fundamental para estudos de hidrodinâmica e para o projeto de estruturas costeiras e portuárias.No presente artigo apresentam-se as simulações numéricas feitas utilizando o pacote de software OpenFOAM®, recorrendo ao solver IHFoam, para simular a propagação de ondas regulares sem rebentação num canal tridimensional. O código numérico resolve as equações de Navier-Stokes em regime transitório e utiliza um esquema do tipo VoF (Volume of Fluid) para identificar a superfície livre. Foi considerada uma onda regular incidente com 1,5 s de período e 0,1 m de altura. Esta é uma das condições de entre o vasto conjunto de ensaios em canal de ondas, realizado no Laboratório Nacional de Engenharia Civil (LNEC) cujo objetivo foi a análise da hidrodinâmica da propagação de ondas sobre um fundo de batimetria variável, para várias condições de agitação incidente.São feitas comparações entre os resultados numéricos e os experimentais. Estas comparações incluem: evoluções temporais de sondas de nível em várias localizações ao longo do canal e correspondentes espetros de amplitude; evolução da altura significativa e do período médio das ondas ao longo do canal; evolução temporal das componentes da velocidade em localizações selecionadas no canal e distribuição bidimensional dessas componentes.Constata-se que os resultados numéricos obtidos apresentam valores próximos dos experimentais. As diferenças verificadas são atribuíveis a imprecisões numéricas bem como a diferenças entre a forma de geração e dissipação de ondas entre o numérico e o experimental.

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