Publications

Knowing the vertical structure of particle velocity is very important for the sediment transportation study. Recentdevelopment of computer resources and high performance computing enable us to use numerical models withmore information in the vertical direction. In this paper, the performance of multi-layered Boussinesq model(COULWAVE) and RANS model (COBRAS-UC) on a bar-trough profile beach is examined. Results, in termsof wave heights computed by both models and the time series of the horizontal velocity (computed withCOBRAS-UC model) are compared with the experimental data collected by Okamoto et al. (2008) for the testcase with an incident wave of period T=1.5sec and height of H=8cm, in which the detailed vertical structure ofparticle velocity was measured. Both models can predict the wave height change very well until the wavebreaking initiates and specially COBRAS-UC model. However, it does not agree to the experimental data afterthe wave breaking initiation. The COBRAS-UC model calculates the horizontal velocity near the free surfacevery well, but it does not agree to the experimental data in the lower section of the water column.

Nesta comunicação, apresenta-se o estudo efectuado para a determinação doespraiamento e cotas de inundação numa estrutura de enrocamento existente napraia de Vale do Lobo, situada no Concelho de Loulé, na região do Algarve.Com base nas características da agitação marítima determinadas na praia juntoao pé da estrutura durante o ano de 1991, com o sistema GUIOMAR,considerando dois níveis de maré, procedeu-se ao cálculo do espraiamento sobrea estrutura. Para tal, recorreu-se às fórmulas empíricas de TAW (2002) e de vander Meer e Stam (1992). Determinaram-se, também, as respectivas cotas deinundação. Tal permitiu avaliar a influência do nível de maré nos valores deespraiamento encontrados, bem como das diferenças associadas à utilização dasduas formulações.

The Port of Sines is located on the west coast of Portugal, sheltered by two breakwaters: thewest and the east breakwaters (Figure 1). Originally, the west breakwater was 2 km long indepths up to 50 m, protected by two armour layers of 400 kN dolosse on a 1:1.5 slope(Mettam, 1976). In February 1978, immediately after breakwater construction, a storm, with asignificant wave height of 8 m, damaged the breakwater armour layer in four different areas.One year later, a more severe storm caused failure of almost the entire armour layer andsuperstructure, leading to urgent repair works during the 1980s. The last rehabilitation workswere concluded in 1992.

O conhecimento da agitação marítima é fundamental para o planeamento de intervenções e estudos costeiros, para simular os possíveis impactos ambientais de obras de engenharia e para a definição de procedimentos em situações de emergência. Os modelos numéricos de propagação de ondas, devido à sua rapidez, flexibilidade e gama de aplicação, contribuem de forma importante para os estudos costeiros. Apesar destas qualidades permitirem a simulação de diversos cenários de forma simplificada, os modelos exigem a utilização de grandes quantidades de dados e originam também grandes quantidades de resultados para cada caso em estudo.Os sistemas de informação geográfica permitem a organização e interpretação de grandes quantidades de informação, mostrando de forma rápida os padrões e tendências principais em qualquer processo de tomada de decisão.Neste âmbito tem vindo a ser desenvolvido o sistema GUIOMAR: Geo(Graphical) User Interface for cOastal and MARine modeling, um sistema integrado para a modelação da agitação marítima, aplicado à zona costeira portuguesa e que inclui todas as funcionalidades de um SIG.A versão actual do sistema foi desenvolvida em linguagem VBA (Visual Basic for Applications) para o ArcGIS9.0TM. O sistema GUIOMAR tem 3 componentes principais: (i) um software comercial de SIG; (ii) uma interface com o utilizador que é responsável pela comunicação entre o utilizador e o sistema; (iii) um conjunto de modelos de propagação de ondas, com diferentes domínios de aplicação: REF/DIF 1(Dalrymple e Kirby, 1991), REF/DIF S(Kirby e Ozkan, 1994), FUNWAVE 1D e 2D (Kirby et al., 1998), DREAMS (Fortes, 2002) e SWAN (Booij et al., 1999); Inclui também um programa de construção de malhas não estruturadas para os modelos numéricos, GMALHA (Pinheiro et al., 2006).O trabalho apresenta numa aplicação do sistema GUIOMAR ao Porto de Sines na qual foram testados os desenvolvimentos mais recentes do sistema, como é o caso da acoplagem dos modelos de propagação de ondas DREAMS e SWAN através da interface do GUIOMAR. Para tal, foi efectuada uma caracterização intensiva do Porto de Sines para o cálculo dos coeficientes de reflexão a aplicar no modelo DREAMS. O resultado final deste trabalho foi a caracterização do regime de agitação marítima dentro e fora do porto de Sines através da utilização dos procedimentos implementados no sistema GUIOMAR.

GUIOMAR is an integrated system for coastal engineering modeling, developed with a commercial software of Geographical Information Systems (GIS). This system allows the utilization of both wave propagation models and of all the functionalities that are inherent to the GIS software, and it is being designed to help in the decision making process in coastal areas. GUIOMAR system is composed of three main components: a GIS commercial software, a set of modules/models of wave propagation and other pre and post processing algorithms programmed in FORTRANTM, and a Graphical User Interface (GUI) developed in VBA for ArcGISTM, which is responsible for the communication between the user and the system. At the moment, are available six wave propagation models and a program that automatically generates unstructured grids for the numerical models. In this paper, GUIOMAR structure and a general overview of its interface are presented. In order to achieve important information about the system operability, a test was made for an important Portuguese harbor. Sines harbor, at the southeast of Europe, 37º 57

This paper describes the implementation of a new boundary conditions in the BOUSSIIW model (BOUSSinesq model with Internal Irregular Wave generation). BOUSSIIW is a finite element numerical model for wave propagation in near shore regions that is able to describe the wave field outside and inside harbours and sheltered zones. It is based upon the extended Boussinesq equation derived by Nwogu. These equations describe the nonlinear evolution of waves over a sloping impermeable bottom and are able to reproduce some of the most important physical effects associated with the nonlinear wave transformation in near shore regions. Their range of validity extends from shallow up to intermediate water depths. Monochromatic and irregular waves can be generated by the model using the source function method. The two boundary conditions available were full reflection or full absorption. A new partial reflection boundary condition is implemented. The model is validated with a simple test case. Reflection coefficients obtained with BOUSSIIW were compared to widely used empirical formula, enabling the assessment of the new condition

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This paper presents the results of the study performed for estimating the run-up and flood levelsin a stretch of Vale do Lobo beach, located at Loulé Municipality, in the Algarve region.The study started by defining the offshore wave conditions in the area, based upon data collectedduring 1991 by the Portuguese Hydrographic Institute with a directional wave-buoy located atFaro. These conditions were then transferred to the vicinity of Vale do Lobo beach by using theGUIOMAR system, namely its SWAN module. GUIOMAR is an integrated system for modellingwave propagation in coastal engineering studies. It is currently being developed to providesupport for a sustainable planning and management of the costal area.Two empirical formulations were applied for estimating the run-up at Vale do Lobo beach during1991: one based on field data and the other based on physical model tests. Two water levelswere considered and a sensitivity analysis was performed to evaluate the differences betweenthe two formulations and the impact of some of the parameters on the end results. The floodlevels were also estimated.

This paper presents an experimental and numerical study of 2-D wave diffraction by a fixed horizontal-axis submergedcircular cylinder. The objective of the paper is to report and validate results from the fully nonlinear 2-D boundary-elementmethod code CANAL; to assess the capability of the physical wave flume and the measurement methodology to study thistype of problem; and to contribute to the understanding of the wave diffraction by a circular cylinder. Two test cases arepresented, both in deep-water conditions. The cylinder axis submergence is 1^5r (r is the cylinder radius) for the first case,and 3r for the second, the latter corresponding to the experimental study presented in the paper. A discretization convergenceevaluation is also presented for the second case. The good agreement between the numerical and the experimental resultsproves that this numerical model is able to accurately simulate this type of problems. No reflection was noticed on the incidentwave side of the cylinder. It was found that nonlinear resonant interactions occur between the fundamental frequency andthe harmonics on the transmitted wave side of the cylinder. Free waves were observed on this part of the wave flume.

An aerial monitoring system was developed for the maritime structures protecting the foundation columns of the airport infrastructure of the Madeira Island Airport, in the scope of research project MEGE, to complement the already existing monitoring program of visual observations. For the aerial monitoring of the berm breakwater, with about 770 m in length, a fast data acquisition system was envisaged. Imaging techniques acquired through a high-resolution camera coupled to an unmanned aerial vehicle (UAV) were used, which allowed for a very fast and efficient automated procedure, compatible with the difficult accessibility to the structure on the seaside. Point clouds corresponding to the breakwater geometry were obtained from the set of aerial images from the camera on board of the UAV, using photogrammetric techniques. In this paper, the two complementary parts of the monitoring of this structure are described and corresponding results are shown.

This paper aims to evaluate the impact of ships on fenders during the berthing process. Physical tests and numerical simulations with MOORNAV tool were performed with versions of the GulfStream ship in still water and under a set of different conditions. A comparative analysis was made between outputs of the two models considering specific conditions. The MOORNAV application resulted in a standard deviation from the physical model of 3% to 6% in relation to the maximum force exerted on each fender.

This paper aims to evaluate the impact of ships on fenders during the berthing process. Physical tests and numerical simulations with MOORNAV tool were performed with versions of the GulfStream ship in still water and under a set of different conditions. A comparative analysis was made between outputs of the two models considering specific conditions. The MOORNAV application resulted in a standard deviation from the physical model of 3% to 6% in relation to the maximum force exerted on each fender.

Neste trabalho, descreve-se a aplicação do programa OSOM+ às obras marítimas do Porto de Sines, em especial ao quebra-mar oeste. Assim, serão apresentados resultados de comparação entre as situações observadas em 2018 e 2020 no âmbito de inspeções visuais e com drone, mediante apreciação e análise de fotografias georreferenciadas, ortomosaicos, nuvens de pontos, modelos numéricos de superfície e perfis selecionados. É também ilustrada a forma como a aplicação e base de dados ANOSOM-WEB pode ser empregue quer durante as campanhas de observação, quer em gabinete. Conclui-se este trabalho com a apresentação das vantagens da recente atualização da metodologia e do que se julga ser a sua importância na tomada de decisões sobre a necessidade ou não de realizar obras de manutenção e/ou reparação nestas estruturas, ou similares.

Os mapas de risco costeiro, integrados em modelos de risco, são excelentes ferramentas de apoio à tomada de decisão no âmbito da gestão e proteção costeira em situações normais e de emergência [1], ajudando aproteger as populações e infraestruturas em risco de inundação costeira e galgamento oceânico proteger as populações e infraestruturas em risco de inundação costeira e galgamento oceânico.

SAFEPORT safety system aims at forecasting and alerting, on a regular basis, emergency situations regarding ships operation in port areas caused by extreme weather-oceanographic conditions. It uses forecasts provided offshore of the area under study of sea agitation, wind and tide. The characterization of the response of the free and moored ships at a berth is performed using the numerical package SWAMS. The system issue alerts, through danger levels associated with risk levels of exceedance of recommended values for movements and forces imposed on ship mooring systems. SAFEPORT can be adapted to any port. So far, it has been developed and adapted to three terminals of the port of Sines, where three different ships were simulated. This paper presents the developments made to date of the safety system, which includes tests performed in storm situations. The numerical models run every day, in real-time mode, in a computer cluster and the system provide forecast results for the next 72 hours. The results are disseminated on a web page and a mobile application in a variety of formats. It was concluded that the SAFEPORT safety system issued alerts according to the observed reality during the storm Dora. It has also been shown to be a computer tool for the optimization of ship mooring systems. The system is currently in testing and validation phase therefore, forecasts should be interpreted as indicative.

A autoridade portuária do arquipélago dos Açores, Portos dos Açores, SA, identificou a necessidade de dispor de um sistema de alerta precoce para os riscos associados à agitação marítima, nomeadamente os relacionados com os galgamentos costeiros e com os navios amarrados. No âmbito do Projeto ECOMARPORT, associaram-se com a Universidade dos Açores e o LNEC para o desenvolvimento de três novos protótipos do sistema HIDRALERTApara os portos de S. Roque do Pico, Madalena do Pico e Praia da Vitória. Os novos protótipos têm, para além da previsão de eventos de galgamento das proteções portuárias, a capacidade de prever esforços e movimentos de navios amarrados. As situações de emergência podem ser previstas, permitindo que as autoridades portuárias possam tomar medidas de mitigação para evitar a perda de vidas e minimizar os danos.

Early warning systems (EWS) are fundamental tool to reduce risks in coastal areas since they provide in advance the necessary information for the responsible authorities to mitigate the effects of possible emergency situation due to storms.

The case studies are Costa da Caparica coastal area and Ericeira port, both on the West Portuguese Coast.

The To-SEAlert project (Fortes et al. 2019) aims to include a set of tools/methodologies into the Early Warning Systems (EWS) HIDRALERTA, (Poseiro, 2019, Fortes et al., 2021, Santos et al., 2020, Zózimo et al., 2021, Ferreira, et al. 2021a) to make it more efficient reliable and robust.

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