Publications

Coastal hazards such as flooding and erosion can cause large economic and human losses. Under this threat, early warning systems can be very cost-effective solutions for disaster preparation. The goal of this study was to develop, test, and implement an operational coastal erosion early warning system supported by a particular method of machine learning. Thus, the system combines Bayesian Networks, and state-of-the-art numerical models, such as XBeach and SWAN, to predict storm erosion impacts in urbanized areas. This system was developed in two phases. In the development phase, all information required to apply the machine learning method was generated including the definition of hundreds of oceanic synthetic storms, modeling of the erosion caused by these storms, and characterization of the impact levels according to a newly defined eerosion iimpact index. This adimensional index relates the distance from the edge of the dune/beach scarp to buildings and the height of that scarp. Finally, a Bayesian Network that acted as a surrogate of the previously generated information was built. After the training of the network, the conditional probability tables were created. These tables constituted the ground knowledge to make the predictions in the second phase. This methodology was validated (1) by comparing 6-h predictions obtained with the Bayesian Network and with process-based models, the latest considered as the benchmark, and (2) by assessing the predictive skills of the Bayesian Network through the unbiased iterative k-fold cross-validation procedure. Regarding the first comparison, the analysis considered the entire duration of three large storms whose return periods were 10, 16, and 25 years, and it was observed that the Bayesian Network correctly predicted between 64% and 72% of the impacts during the course of the storms, depending on the area analyzed. Importantly, this method was also able to identify when the hazardous conditions disappeared after predicting potential consequences. Regarding the Regarding the second validation approach, second validation approach, the k-fold cross-validation procedure was applied to the peak of a set of varying storms and it demonstrated that the predictive skills were maximized (63%

A wave flume is used to study a scaled model of a stepped bottom dual-chamber Oscillating Water Column (OWC) installed onshore. Compared to traditional single-chamber OWCs, the use of dual-chambers is expected to widen the range of sea states in which the OWC is more efficient, and the step, in front of the first chamber, boosts the capturing energy capacity of the device. The Power Take-Off (PTO) system is modelled as an air opening in the pneumatic chambers. Several experiments combining regular incident waves and PTO damping conditions are performed. Results of the amplitudes of the free surface elevations inside the chambers show that the device can amplify the incident wave amplitude up to 1.57 times in chamber 2. Results of the primary efficiency show that the device is highly dependent on the PTO damping characteristics and can reach around 40% for a wide range of wave periods. Results of the reflection analysis show that the reflection coefficient is also dependent on the PTO damping characteristics but remain lower than 0.6 for all the studied cases. Sloshing phenomenon (mostly in the cross-section direction) was observed for a wavelength close to the cross-section dimension, impacting negatively on the device pneumatic performance.

Performance and hydrodynamics of an array of Oscillating Water Column (OWC) Wave Energy Converter (WEC) integrated into a vertical breakwater is studied. The FLUENT® software, in which the numerical model is based on the Reynolds-Averaged Navier-Stokes equations and the Volume of Fluid method for free surface flow modeling, is used in a 3D numerical wave tank. Three vertical breakwater configurations subject to the action of incident regular waves with periods from 6 to 12 s are studied: normal breakwater, with vertical walls parallel to the direction along the breakwater length; and two novel breakwater geometries, partially and fully convergent breakwaters, whose converging vertical walls are inclined

This study aims to validate a numerical model based on Reynolds-averaged Navier

Storms impacting sandy coastal areas produce hazards such as erosion and overwash that, in turn, promote risk to life and property damage in occupied areas. Coastal damage and risks willincrease in the future not only in association with climate change but also due to the growinghuman occupation in coastal areas (van Dongeren et al., 2018). Since the threatened coastal areas are often densely populated, there is a need to implement measures to prevent risks. One of such measures is the use of Early Warning Systems (EWS) that anticipate expected risks and, therefore, work as management tools to minimize or avoid disaster. This work presents the basis of an EWS prototype to alert about the potential consequences of overwash/overtopping and erosion induced by storms, in coastal areas.

Beaches combined with sloping structures are frequently the frst element of defense to protect urban areas from the impact of extreme coastal fooding events. However, these structures are rarely designed for null wave overtopping discharges, accepting that waves can pass above the crest and threat exposed elements in hinterland areas, such as pedestrians, urban elements and buildings, and vehicles. To reduce risks, Early Warning Systems (EWSs) can be used to anticipate and minimize the impacts of fooding episodes on those elements. A key aspect of these systems is the defnition of non-admissible discharge levels that trigger signifcant impacts. However, large discrepancies in defning these discharge levels and the associated impacts are found among the existing methods to assess foodings. Due to the lack of standardization, a new conceptual and quantitative four-level (from no-impact to high-impact) categorization of food warnings (EW-Coast) is proposed. EW-Coast integrates and unifes previous methods and builds on them by incorporating feld-based information. Thus, the new categorization successfully predicted the impact level on 70%, 82%, and 85% of the overtopping episodes afecting pedestrians, urban elements and buildings, and vehicles, respectively. This demonstrates its suitability to support EWSs in areas vulnerable to wave-induced fooding.

During physical scale model tests of rubble mound breakwaters, the assessment of the eroded volume of the armour layer subjected to incident sea waves can be determined from consecutive surveys of the surface of the armour layer after each test run. This enables one to assess the damage level of the struc ture by comparing erosion profiles and by the eroded volume between consecutive surveys of the tested section. The present study aimed to evaluate the damage evolu tion of a section of the Peniche harbour west breakwater, whose armour layer is made of tetrapods, A dimensionless damage parameter was computed, based on the eroded volume at the end of each test. The test program consisted of three test series (A, B and C) with different durations and wave conditions sequences, considering the low-water level (water depth of 0.20 m at the toe of the structure) and high-water level (0.24 m) and sea states with peak periods Tp = 1.70 s and Tp = 1.98 s and significant wave heights, Hm0, ranging between 0.12 m and 0.19 m. The model was built and operated according to Froude

Melby presents a formula to predict damage evolution in rubble-mound breakwaterswhose armour layer is made of rock, based on the erosion measured in scale-model tests and thecharacteristics of the incident sea waves in such tests. However, this formula is only valid for armourlayers made of rock and for the range of tested sea states. The present work aims to show howthe Melby methodology can be used to establish a similar formula for the armour layer damageevolution in a rubble-mound breakwater where tetrapods are employed. For that, a long-durationtest series is conducted with a 1:50 scale model of the quay section of the Ericeira Harbour breakwater.The eroded volume of the armour layer was measured using a Kinect position sensor. The damageparameter values measured in the experiments are lower than those predicted by the formulationfor rock armour layers. New ap and b coefficients for the Melby formula for the tested armour layerwere established based on the minimum root mean square error between the measured and thepredicted damage. This work shows also that it is possible to assess the damage evolution in scale model tests with rubble-mound breakwaters by computing the eroded volume and subsequently, thedimensionless damage parameter based on the equivalent removed armour units.

The objective of this work is the comparison of two methodologies used for run-up measurements in a two-dimensional physical model, which represented the protection breakwaters of the Peniche and Ericeira

Coastal flooding prediction systems can be an efficient risk-reduction instrument. The goal of this study was to design, build, test, and implement a wave-induced flooding early warning system in urban areas fronted by sandy beaches. The system utilizes a novel approach that combines Bayesian Networks and numerical models (SWAN + XBeach) and was developed in two phases. In the development phase, firstly, the learning information was generated including the creation of oceanic conditions, modeling overtopping discharges, the haracterization of the associated im pacts (no, low, moderate and high) in pedestrians, urban components and buildings, and vehicles, and secondly, the Bayesian Networks were designed that surrogated the previously generated information. After their training, the conditional probability tables were created representing the foundation to make predictions in the operational phase. This methodology was validated for several historical events which hit the study area (Praia de Faro, Portugal), and the system correctly predicted the impact level of around 80% of the cases. Also, the predictive skills varied depending on the level, with the no and high impact levels overcoming the intermediate levels. In terms of efficiency, one simulation (deterministic) of coastal flooding for 72 h by running SWAN + XBeach operationally would take more than two days on a one-logical processor workstation, while the current approach can provide quasi-instantaneously predictions for that period, including probability distributions. Moreover, the two-working phase approach is very flexible enabling the inclusion of additional features such as social components representing a powerful tool for risk reduction in coastal communities.

The global warming is responsible for increasing the sea level and, consequently, can cause overtopping on coastal structures. The prediction of this phenomenon is difficult because involves turbulence, wave breaking and run-up. The objective of this study is to analyze numerically the wave overtopping on coastal structures by using the FLUENT® numerical model, which is based on Reynolds-Averaged Navier-Stokes equations (RANS) and uses the Volume of Fluid method (VoF) to track the interface between water and air. Influences of mesh size, turbulence model (k-

Os quebra-mares de talude são estruturas normalmente utilizadas para proteção costeira e portuária e estão sujeitas durante a sua vida útil a diferentes solicitações (p.e., agitação marítima). A avaliação do seu estado estrutural e a previsão do seu comportamento ao longo do tempo torna-se fundamental para evitar significativos prejuízos materiais. É nesse âmbito que se insere o programa de observação sistemática, em curso no LNEC, desde 1986, para quebra-mares localizados em Portugal Continental, nos quais o Laboratório Nacional de Engenharia Civil (LNEC) realiza inspeções periódicas e avalia as respetivas condições de segurança. Para apoio a esse programa foi densenvolvida no LNEC a aplicação ANOSOM, a qual tem sofrido, ao longo dos tempos, diversas atualizações com vista a acompanhar a evolução que o programa OSOM+ tem vindo a sofrer. Esta comunicação descreve as funcionalidades da mais recente versão desta aplicação, a ANOSOM-WEB, como ferramenta de gestão de risco em estruturas de proteção costeira.

Regarding the stability of armour layers, several authors have proposed guidelines on how toconsider the effects of oblique waves (e.g. Yu et al., 2002, Van Gent, 2014; Maciñeira &Burcharth, 2016). Especially for very oblique waves, for which the increase in stability is thelargest, limited data are available. Under the scope of the HYDRALAB+ transnational accessproject

O desenvolvimento de capacidade para prever a agitação marítima ao nível das bacias oceânicas com alguns dias de antecedência estimulou o aparecimento de sistemas informáticos para previsão dos efeitos da agitação marítima em zonas costeiras e portuárias. O HIDRALERTA é um desses sistemas: partindo das características da agitação marítima ao largo e utilizando modelos numéricos para a propagação da agitação marítima estima os parâmetros relevantes da agitação marítima para a avaliação do galgamento e do espraiamento quer em zonas portuárias, quer em zonas costeiras. O projeto de investigação e desenvolvimento To-SEAlert financiado pela Fundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologia e envolvendo o LNEC, a FCiências.ID, a NOVA.ID.FCT e o ISEL pretende melhorar as funcionalidades daquele sistema no que se refere às metodologias de previsão do galgamento e da delimitação da zona inundada, bem como no apoio à resposta a situações de emergência envolvendo aquele fenómeno.Esta comunicação pretende descrever o racional que justifica a existência do projeto, as tarefas em que o mesmo foi dividido e os principais resultados esperados.

Neste artigo descreve-se a metodologia atualmente existente no Laboratório Nacional de Engenharia Civil (LNEC) de observação e monitorização sistemática de obras marítimas, que tem sido aplicada com sucesso a um grande número de estruturas marítimas na costa continental portuguesa e no estrangeiro.A atual metodologia (OSOM+) de diagnóstico de quebra-mares para avaliação dos estados atual, de evolução e de risco, complementa a anterior (OSOM), baseada somente em observações visuais, utilizando agora também a informação obtida com as inspeções com drone. Os resultados obtidos com as observações de drone, nomeadamente as fotografias aéreas verticais, os ortomosaicos e a nuvens de pontos, a partir das quais são construídos os modelos digitais de superfície das estruturas, permitem melhor avaliação do dano.Para ilustrar a aplicação da atual metodologia de avaliação de segurança de quebra-mares, usam-se os resultados da campanha de levantamento aéreo realizada em setembro de 2018 no quebra-mar poente da entrada do porto de Portimão.

Para caracterizar a agitação marítima no Porto de Leixões após o prolongamento do quebra-mar exterior, sob condições de alterações climáticas foi realizado um extenso grupo de ensaios em modelo físico tridimensional de agitação, num tanque do LNEC, à escala 1:80, representando-se toda a bacia portuária e o prolongamento do quebra-mar exterior do Porto de Leixões. Foram realizados ensaios com diferentes condições de agitação incidente para o rumo W e com dois níveis de maré, que correspondem ao nível médio e a preia-mar com uma sobrelevação representativa dos efeitos das alterações climáticas e da sua influência na agitação marítima . Foi medida a agitação em 30 pontos localizados na entrada do porto e no interior da bacia portuária e analisou-se o abrigo da bacia portuária com a ampliação do quebra-mar norte e as diferenças entre o abrigo para os dois níveis de maré ensaiados.As principais conclusões dos ensaios realizados foram que os maiores valores de alturas de onda ocorreram na zona exterior e de entrada do porto, diminuindo para o seu interior. Ao longo do canal de navegação, as alturas de onda vão diminuindo e no interior do porto obtiveram-se valores da altura de onda pequenos. A subida do nível do mar, para as condições ensaiadas, não afeta significativamente a agitação no interior da bacia portuária. No entanto, no exterior e zona de entrada do porto contribui para alterações da agitação que diferem consoante o período de pico e a altura de onda significativa incidente.

A caraterização da rebentação / espraiamento / galgamento e do seu impacto na estabilidade de quebra-mares de taludes, quer no tronco, quer na cabeça, ainda é deficiente para cenários de alterações climáticas. O mesmo acontece com a influência nestes fenómenos de grandes ângulos de incidência da agitação marítima. A experiência RODBreak envolveu uma equipa de 23 pessoas de 8 instituições europeias e pretendeu criar um conjunto de dados para:- estender ou melhorar a gama de validade das fórmulas empíricas existentes para a estabilidade do manto protetor, o que facilitará a avaliação do desempenho das estruturas existentes;- calibrar e validar fórmulas empíricas para o espraiamento e galgamento, bem como modelos numéricos para a interação onda-estrutura.Além disso, esta foi uma oportunidade única para testar e melhorar algumas técnicas não intrusivas para medir quantidades relacionadas com aqueles fenómenos. Esta comunicação descreve os testes realizados no tanque de ondas 3D do Ludwig-Franzius-Institut für Wasserbau, Ästuar- und Kusteningenieurwesen da Leibnitz Universität Hannover em outubro e novembro de 2017.

O Porto de Leixões, localizado na costa norte de Portugal, é um dos maiores do país, recebendo diariamente um grande número de navios de grandes dimensões. Um dos principais postos de acostagem situa-se à entrada do porto e encontra-se sujeito à agitação marítima que é difratada pelo olhe principal de proteção do porto. Para avaliar dos movimentos induzidos no navio estacionado nesse posto de acostagem e as forças exercidas nas suas amarras e defensas pela agitação incidente, utilizou-se o modelo físico de Leixões, construído num dos tanques do LNEC. Neste modelo físico, encontra-se representada a envolvente do porto de Leixões, assim como a sua batimetria. O modelo do navio

Under the framework of the ECOMAPORT project, two new prototypes of the forecast, early warning and risk management HIDRALERTA system to the ports of Madalena do Pico and S. Roque do Pico, both on the Island of Pico, Azores are undergoing. Those prototypes are intended to assess and predict, on a regular basis, the risk of coastal overtopping and consequent flooding and the risk to navigation, in particular as regards the safety of moored and maneuvered vessels, both caused by wave agitation. Additionally, it is intended to guarantee the functionality of the prototype of the HIDRALERTA system currently implemented in the port of Praia da Vitória, in Terceira Island, Azores since 2015, and to implement a new aspect regarding navigation risk.The new prototypes are based on the methodology already developed for the port of Praia da Vitória, where the first prototype of the HIDRALERTA system has been in operation since 2015.This paper essentially describes the work carried out to date on the system and their application to the ports of S. Roque do Pico and Madalena do Pico.

This paper presents a set of scale-model tests carried out to extend the range of wave steepness values analyzed in wave run-up, overtopping and armour layer stability studies, focusing on oblique extreme wave conditions and on their effects on a gently sloping breakwater trunk armour and roundhead. A stretch of a rubble-mound breakwater (head and part of the adjoining trunk, with a slope of 1(V):2(H)) was built in a wave basin at the Leibnitz Universität Hannover to assess, under extreme wave conditions (wave steepness of 0.055) with different incident wave angles (from 40º to 90º), the structure behaviour in what concerns wave run-up, wave overtopping and damage progression of the armour layers, composed by rock and Antifer cubes. Non-intrusive methodologies were used for the assessment of armour layer damage evolution, including a laser scanning technique, stereo photogrammetry and a Kinect© motion sensor. The aim of the present work is to characterize damage evolution, based upon surveys carried out with the Kinect© motion sensor, for 4 of the 11 test series conducted during the test program.

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