Publications

Coastal hazards such as flooding and erosion can cause large economic and human losses. Under this threat, early warning systems can be very cost-effective solutions for disaster preparation. The goal of this study was to develop, test, and implement an operational coastal erosion early warning system supported by a particular method of machine learning. Thus, the system combines Bayesian Networks, and state-of-the-art numerical models, such as XBeach and SWAN, to predict storm erosion impacts in urbanized areas. This system was developed in two phases. In the development phase, all information required to apply the machine learning method was generated including the definition of hundreds of oceanic synthetic storms, modeling of the erosion caused by these storms, and characterization of the impact levels according to a newly defined eerosion iimpact index. This adimensional index relates the distance from the edge of the dune/beach scarp to buildings and the height of that scarp. Finally, a Bayesian Network that acted as a surrogate of the previously generated information was built. After the training of the network, the conditional probability tables were created. These tables constituted the ground knowledge to make the predictions in the second phase. This methodology was validated (1) by comparing 6-h predictions obtained with the Bayesian Network and with process-based models, the latest considered as the benchmark, and (2) by assessing the predictive skills of the Bayesian Network through the unbiased iterative k-fold cross-validation procedure. Regarding the first comparison, the analysis considered the entire duration of three large storms whose return periods were 10, 16, and 25 years, and it was observed that the Bayesian Network correctly predicted between 64% and 72% of the impacts during the course of the storms, depending on the area analyzed. Importantly, this method was also able to identify when the hazardous conditions disappeared after predicting potential consequences. Regarding the Regarding the second validation approach, second validation approach, the k-fold cross-validation procedure was applied to the peak of a set of varying storms and it demonstrated that the predictive skills were maximized (63%

A wave flume is used to study a scaled model of a stepped bottom dual-chamber Oscillating Water Column (OWC) installed onshore. Compared to traditional single-chamber OWCs, the use of dual-chambers is expected to widen the range of sea states in which the OWC is more efficient, and the step, in front of the first chamber, boosts the capturing energy capacity of the device. The Power Take-Off (PTO) system is modelled as an air opening in the pneumatic chambers. Several experiments combining regular incident waves and PTO damping conditions are performed. Results of the amplitudes of the free surface elevations inside the chambers show that the device can amplify the incident wave amplitude up to 1.57 times in chamber 2. Results of the primary efficiency show that the device is highly dependent on the PTO damping characteristics and can reach around 40% for a wide range of wave periods. Results of the reflection analysis show that the reflection coefficient is also dependent on the PTO damping characteristics but remain lower than 0.6 for all the studied cases. Sloshing phenomenon (mostly in the cross-section direction) was observed for a wavelength close to the cross-section dimension, impacting negatively on the device pneumatic performance.

Performance and hydrodynamics of an array of Oscillating Water Column (OWC) Wave Energy Converter (WEC) integrated into a vertical breakwater is studied. The FLUENT® software, in which the numerical model is based on the Reynolds-Averaged Navier-Stokes equations and the Volume of Fluid method for free surface flow modeling, is used in a 3D numerical wave tank. Three vertical breakwater configurations subject to the action of incident regular waves with periods from 6 to 12 s are studied: normal breakwater, with vertical walls parallel to the direction along the breakwater length; and two novel breakwater geometries, partially and fully convergent breakwaters, whose converging vertical walls are inclined

This study aims to validate a numerical model based on Reynolds-averaged Navier

Storms impacting sandy coastal areas produce hazards such as erosion and overwash that, in turn, promote risk to life and property damage in occupied areas. Coastal damage and risks willincrease in the future not only in association with climate change but also due to the growinghuman occupation in coastal areas (van Dongeren et al., 2018). Since the threatened coastal areas are often densely populated, there is a need to implement measures to prevent risks. One of such measures is the use of Early Warning Systems (EWS) that anticipate expected risks and, therefore, work as management tools to minimize or avoid disaster. This work presents the basis of an EWS prototype to alert about the potential consequences of overwash/overtopping and erosion induced by storms, in coastal areas.

Beaches combined with sloping structures are frequently the frst element of defense to protect urban areas from the impact of extreme coastal fooding events. However, these structures are rarely designed for null wave overtopping discharges, accepting that waves can pass above the crest and threat exposed elements in hinterland areas, such as pedestrians, urban elements and buildings, and vehicles. To reduce risks, Early Warning Systems (EWSs) can be used to anticipate and minimize the impacts of fooding episodes on those elements. A key aspect of these systems is the defnition of non-admissible discharge levels that trigger signifcant impacts. However, large discrepancies in defning these discharge levels and the associated impacts are found among the existing methods to assess foodings. Due to the lack of standardization, a new conceptual and quantitative four-level (from no-impact to high-impact) categorization of food warnings (EW-Coast) is proposed. EW-Coast integrates and unifes previous methods and builds on them by incorporating feld-based information. Thus, the new categorization successfully predicted the impact level on 70%, 82%, and 85% of the overtopping episodes afecting pedestrians, urban elements and buildings, and vehicles, respectively. This demonstrates its suitability to support EWSs in areas vulnerable to wave-induced fooding.

During physical scale model tests of rubble mound breakwaters, the assessment of the eroded volume of the armour layer subjected to incident sea waves can be determined from consecutive surveys of the surface of the armour layer after each test run. This enables one to assess the damage level of the struc ture by comparing erosion profiles and by the eroded volume between consecutive surveys of the tested section. The present study aimed to evaluate the damage evolu tion of a section of the Peniche harbour west breakwater, whose armour layer is made of tetrapods, A dimensionless damage parameter was computed, based on the eroded volume at the end of each test. The test program consisted of three test series (A, B and C) with different durations and wave conditions sequences, considering the low-water level (water depth of 0.20 m at the toe of the structure) and high-water level (0.24 m) and sea states with peak periods Tp = 1.70 s and Tp = 1.98 s and significant wave heights, Hm0, ranging between 0.12 m and 0.19 m. The model was built and operated according to Froude

Melby presents a formula to predict damage evolution in rubble-mound breakwaterswhose armour layer is made of rock, based on the erosion measured in scale-model tests and thecharacteristics of the incident sea waves in such tests. However, this formula is only valid for armourlayers made of rock and for the range of tested sea states. The present work aims to show howthe Melby methodology can be used to establish a similar formula for the armour layer damageevolution in a rubble-mound breakwater where tetrapods are employed. For that, a long-durationtest series is conducted with a 1:50 scale model of the quay section of the Ericeira Harbour breakwater.The eroded volume of the armour layer was measured using a Kinect position sensor. The damageparameter values measured in the experiments are lower than those predicted by the formulationfor rock armour layers. New ap and b coefficients for the Melby formula for the tested armour layerwere established based on the minimum root mean square error between the measured and thepredicted damage. This work shows also that it is possible to assess the damage evolution in scale model tests with rubble-mound breakwaters by computing the eroded volume and subsequently, thedimensionless damage parameter based on the equivalent removed armour units.

The objective of this work is the comparison of two methodologies used for run-up measurements in a two-dimensional physical model, which represented the protection breakwaters of the Peniche and Ericeira

Coastal flooding prediction systems can be an efficient risk-reduction instrument. The goal of this study was to design, build, test, and implement a wave-induced flooding early warning system in urban areas fronted by sandy beaches. The system utilizes a novel approach that combines Bayesian Networks and numerical models (SWAN + XBeach) and was developed in two phases. In the development phase, firstly, the learning information was generated including the creation of oceanic conditions, modeling overtopping discharges, the haracterization of the associated im pacts (no, low, moderate and high) in pedestrians, urban components and buildings, and vehicles, and secondly, the Bayesian Networks were designed that surrogated the previously generated information. After their training, the conditional probability tables were created representing the foundation to make predictions in the operational phase. This methodology was validated for several historical events which hit the study area (Praia de Faro, Portugal), and the system correctly predicted the impact level of around 80% of the cases. Also, the predictive skills varied depending on the level, with the no and high impact levels overcoming the intermediate levels. In terms of efficiency, one simulation (deterministic) of coastal flooding for 72 h by running SWAN + XBeach operationally would take more than two days on a one-logical processor workstation, while the current approach can provide quasi-instantaneously predictions for that period, including probability distributions. Moreover, the two-working phase approach is very flexible enabling the inclusion of additional features such as social components representing a powerful tool for risk reduction in coastal communities.

O conhecimento das forças devido à acção das ondas que atuam nos emissários submarinos, compostos por uma conduta e anéis de estabilização de betão, para agitação com direcção de propagação próxima da direcção do emissário, é essencial para o seu dimensionamento. Esta é uma configuração complexa, para a qual a modelação numérica, utilizando modelos 3D de tipo RANSVoF (Reynolds-Average-Navier-Stokes Volume-of-Fluid), é especialmente adequada para obter uma estimativa das forças na conduta e nos anéis. O presente estudo consiste na simulação de um emissário submarino com anéis de estabilização à escala 1:15 que foi ensaiado num tanque de ondas tridimensional, nas instalações do Danish Hydraulics Institute, para estudar a influência da direcção da agitação incidente e da distância da conduta ao fundo nas forças que atuam no emissário. Os resultados numéricos são comparados aos experimentais: obtém-se uma boa concordância nas forças de arrasto, mas as forças de sustentação são subestimadas numericamente.

Os quebra-mares de talude estão entre as obras de proteção marítimo-portuárias mais frequentes em Portugal. Devido ao ambiente marítimo agressivo a que estão sujeitos, requerem obras de manutenção periódicas que garantam o seu funcionamento adequado.O elevado valor associado às reparações e/ou reabilitações e às grandes dimensões dos quebra-mares, muitas vezes inviabilizam que intervenções em estruturas desta natureza sejam realizadas de forma completa.Realizou-se um estudo de análise multicritério, com objetivo de propor critérios a serem utilizados na metodologia Measuring Attractiveness by a Category Based Evaluation Technique (MACBETH), acrescida de informações técnicas da base de dados da aplicação de Análise de Observação Sistemática de Obras Marítimas (ANOSOM), com a intenção de otimizar o impacto dos investimentos e auxiliar a tomada de decisões quanto a priorização de intervenções diretamente relacionadas com a maximização da vida útil dos quebra-mares e o seu correto funcionamento. Os casos de estudo são os quebra-mares de Vilamoura, Quarteira e Faro-Olhão.

A geografia marítima nem sempre proporciona à costa um ambiente seguro para a instalação e manutenção de portos. Com este propósito, constroem-se obstáculos estruturais capazes de proteger o porto contra a agitação marítima, permitindo que as embarcações executem com segurança e eficiência as operações portuárias.Os quebra-mares de talude são as estruturas de proteção marítimo-portuárias mais frequentes em Portugal e estão sujeitos à ação de intempéries e agitação marítima intensa, requerendo obras de manutenção periódicas que garantam o seu funcionamento adequado. No entanto, devido ao elevado valor associado às reparações e/ou reabilitações e à envergadura deste tipo de obras, nem sempre é possível que as intervenções sejam realizadas de forma completa.As informações técnicas, relativas às intervenções em quebra-mares de talude, estão registadas na base de dados de Análise de Observação Sistemática de Obras Marítimas (ANOSOM), uma ferramenta de diagnóstico de estruturas marítimas de proteção portuária e de embocaduras, desenvolvida em MS ACESS pelo Laboratório Nacional de Engenharia Civil (LNEC), a qual mantém uma ampla biblioteca de registos originados em observações regulares de obras marítimas portuguesas, desde o ano de 1995 até à atualidade.As metodologias de análise de multicritério contribuem de forma significativa para a maximização do impacto dos investimentos, proporcionando a tomada de decisões de forma eficiente, no que tange a priorização das intervenções diretamente relacionadas com a vida útil da estrutura e com o seu correto funcionamento.O estudo contido na presente comunicação tem por objetivo propor a utilização de metodologias de análise multicritério para apoio à decisão, através do levantamento de diversos critérios, submetidos a avaliação de especialistas neste tipo de infraestruturas.

Damage evolution in rubble mound breakwaters is one of the key issues in coastal engineering, in particular their design, linked to maintenance and preventive strategies. One of the major challenges is to determine how the lower parts of the breakwaters evolve under sea states. The settlements and movements in this area are responsible of the evolution in the medium and upper parts, in particular the active zone, that are finally the areas where the initial damage and destruction are produced. To analyze these zones, scanning methodologies are increasing their application, specially to determine more precisely the initial movements of the pieces, porosity evolution and damage.This paper presents the application of a scanning device, a Kinect® system, both to analyze a rock armour and Antifer protection in 2D tests conducted in two facilities: LNEC (Portugal) and CITEEC (University of A Coruña, Spain). The analysis presents the initial approach to the validation process and calibration errors, and comparison with existing formulae. The comparison was done only in the initial and final steps, so no water was present in the flume when scanning. Further work is actually developed with intermediate steps (and water), and 3D tests including a roundhead (RODBreak project, Hydralab+, H2020-INFRAIA-2014-2015. Project ID: 654110).

Esta comunicação apresenta uma avaliação do risco de galgamento das estruturas de defesa marítima do Porto de Leixões, nomeadamente o quebra-mar norte e o quebra-mar sul.Recorrendo a previsões de agitação marítima em águas profundas fornecidas pelo modelo WAM, é feita a sua propagação com os modelos numéricos SWAN e DREAMS de modo a obter-se a caracterização da agitação marítima incidente nestas estruturas. Este trabalho assenta na utilização de dados de agitação marítima que cobrem um período de 38 anos (1979

Nesta comunicação descreve uma aplicação do modelo numérico XBEACH no cálculo do espraiamento, galgamento e consequente inundação de sete praias da zona da Costa da Caparica, concelho de Almada, recorrendo à metodologia desenvolvida no âmbito do projeto de investigação HIDRALERTA.Com base nos dados de 2007 a 2016 de agitação marítima ao largo, fornecidos pelo modelo de previsão da agitação marítima WAVEWATCH III, procede-se à transferência destes dados para locais em frente a cada uma das praias da Costa da Caparica, utilizando o modelo numérico SWAN, de modo a caraterizar o regime de agitação marítima nesses locais. De seguida, para o cálculo do espraiamento, galgamento e inundação, recorre-se ao modelo XBEACH, de previsão do efeito de tempestades marítimas na erosão e inundação de zonas costeiras. Os resultados numéricos obtidos para um conjunto de 4 tempestades e para as várias praias são comparados com valores calculados com base em fórmulas empíricas.Os resultados numéricos e das fórmulas empíricas apresentam uma concordância razoável em termos do nível máximo de inundação para a zona norte da Praia de São João da Caparica, o mesmo não se verificando nas zonas também protegidas por estruturas de defesa costeira.

This paper describes the 2D physical model tests performed for a rock armour breakwater at LNEC´s facilities, under the framework of the HYDRALAB+ project. The aim of the present work was to evaluate damage evolution under different approaches of storm sequences, corresponding to different climate change scenarios. The tested wave conditions intended to simulate different sequences of water levels (low water and high water), significant wave heights and peak periods. Damage evaluation was based on the traditional visual method and on stereo-photogrammetric techniques. Results in terms of the non-dimensional damage parameter, the non-dimensional damage depth and the percentage of displaced armour units are compared for the different storm sequences.

This paper describes the 2D physical model tests performed for a rock armour breakwater at LNEC´s facilities, under the framework of the HYDRALAB+ project. The aim of the present work was to evaluate damage evolution under different approaches of storm sequences, corresponding to different climate change scenarios. The tested wave conditions intended to simulate different sequences of water levels (low water and high water), significant wave heights and peak periods. Damage evaluation was based on the traditional visual method and on stereo-photogrammetric techniques. Results in terms of the non-dimensional damage parameter, the non-dimensional damage depth and the percentage of displaced armour units are compared for the different storm sequences.

Understanding damage progression under future climate changes is of utmost importance for effective management of coastal defenses. Significant wave height, wave period, storm direction and water level have been considered the main design variables for coastal structures. Usually, physical model tests support the design of breakwaters considering different incident wave conditions that include also extreme events.This paper describes the two-dimensional (2D) physical model tests of a rock armor breakwater, performed at LNEC´s experimental facilities, under the framework of the HYDRALAB+ project. The aim of the present work was to evaluate damage evolution under future climate change scenarios, by using different damage evaluation techniques. The tested wave conditions simulated a storm sequence where two water levels (low water and high water) were considered, as well as an increase of the wave height. The water levels and the wave heights were chosen to simulate extreme events forecasted on climate change scenarios.Damage evaluation was based on the traditional counting method and on stereophotogrammetric techniques. Test results are presented in terms of the damage parameter S (Broderick & Ahrens, 1982) and in terms of the percentage of removed armor units. The analysis is focused on the damage progression during the scale model tests, for the imposed storm sequence.The damage presents an oscillating behavior with two main damage areas corresponding to the active zones for each level, due to the variation of the water level between low-water and highwater. This behavior differs significantly from that found for the common storm sequences usually tested, where the water level does not change.Both measuring techniques lead to an intermediate damage of the cross-section breakwater. However, the damage parameter assessment with the stereo-photogrammetric technique allows a more versatile evaluation, since it is possible to characterize damage in representative zones of the cross-section.

This paper analyses the influence of water depth and speed variation in the hydrodynamic interaction between a navigating ship and a stationary one, using physical and numerical modelling. The passing ship is a self-propelled scale model of the

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Realização de ensaios em modelo físico reduzido 3D para a avaliação da estabilidade do quebra-mar destacado do Porto Inlgês, Maio, Cabo-Verde

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Adverse sea conditions can cause emergency situations associated to wave overtopping, which endanger the safety of people and goods, with negative impacts for society, the economy and the environment. Therefore, a methodology to assess the overtopping risk in port and coastal areas is essential for a proper planning and management of these areas.The Portuguese National Laboratory for Civil Engineering (LNEC) has been developing the HIDRALERTA system, an integrated decision-support tool for port and coastal management, which focus in preventing and supporting the management of emergency situations and the long-term planning of interventions in the study areas. It enables the user to calculate the risk for various port and coastal activities, starting with the characterization of sea-waves, wind field and tide levels at the study regions.HIDRALERTA was already tested at different places in Portugal: Costa da Caparica beach, in Almada, and port of Praia da Vitória, in the Azores. However, in both cases, the evaluation of wave overtopping / flooding consequences was carried out using a quite simple approach. In fact, such consequences were assessed only at a global and qualitative level, based on information provided by the responsible authorities.This paper aims at testing a quantitative methodology to evaluate overtopping consequences: the Analytic Network Process (ANP). This methodology was proposed to solve complex decision-making problems and its objective is to calculate the priorities among decision elements which will define their final weights on the consequences. The ANP approach can produce interdependencies between criteria and compute the respective weight of each criterion. Such a network model with dependence and feedback improves the priorities derived from judgements and makes prediction more accurate. So, the ANP allows comparison among clusters of elements. Furthermore, in this methodology we take into account the impacts of alternatives on the importance of criteria, by normalizing the comparison matrix. Thus, the given alternatives can influence the ranking of criteria.Application of the ANP methodology to the case study of Praia da Vitória port is presented and a consequences level map is obtained.

Apresenta-se um novo sistema de alerta para navios amarrados em portos que se encontra em desenvolvimento no Laboratório Nacional de Engenharia Civil. O sistema SWAMS_ALERTA é um sistema de previsão e alerta baseado na avaliação do risco associado ao comportamento de navios amarrados em zonas portuárias.Os riscos associados a navios amarrados decorrem de movimentos excessivos, quer no plano horizontal, quer no plano vertical. Estes movimentos podem condicionar as atividades portuárias, nomeadamente cargas e descargas, mas em casos extremos podem levar à ocorrência de situações de emergência, tais como rotura de cabos, rotura de cabeços de amarração ou até colisões com o cais. As consequências deste tipo de situações envolvem sempre grandes prejuízos materiais e por vezes humanos.O sistema SWAMS_ALERTA utiliza as medições e previsões de agitação marítima para a determinação dos seus efeitos em termos de movimentos nos seis graus de liberdade e forças nas amarras e defensas quando o navio se encontra estacionado no cais. Para tal, o sistema recorre a uma série de modelos numéricos, interligados entre si. A comparação destes valores com valores máximos admissíveis pré-estabelecidos permite a avaliação, em tempo real, de situações de emergência e a emissão de alertas dirigidos às entidades portuárias.O sistema é constituído por 4 módulos:I

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