Publications

Numerical modeling of the interaction between waves and coastal structures is a challenge due to the many nonlinearphenomena involved, such as wave propagation, wave transformation with water depth, interaction between incident andreflected waves, runup/rundown and wave overtopping. For simulating such complex free-surface flows, numerical modelsbased on Lagrangian formulation, such as Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics (SPH), are on option. Even though validationof these numerical models is essential, comparing numerical results with experimental data is not an easy task. In thepresent paper, an SPH numerical model is validated comparing numerical results of waves interacting with a compositebreakwater with data obtained from physical model tests carried out in one of the LNEC

Groins are cross shore structures built to promote shoreline stabilization. However, the specific impact of these structures on the wave conditions and velocity field nearshore (and hence, on sediment transport) is still poorly understood. Therefore, this study wishes to extend this knowledge using a numerical model, COULWAVE, previously validated with field data. For that, a typical bar-trough profile is considered and different groin lengths and orientations are tested, under the influence of different significant incident-wave heights and sea-surface levels.The hydrodynamics factors are found to have a greater impact on the nearshore wave conditions than the groin geometry. The variation of significant incident-wave height imparts the greater changes in wave height nearshore, where the groin would be located. The typical tidal range is also important, since a 2 m change in sea surface level can cause great depth changes over bathymetric features and thus influence wave propagation. Although less important, the geometry of the groin should also be considered. The greater the length, the greater the sheltering effect expected, extending further to the lee-side of the groin. The impact will also reach a broader region. With a smaller impact verified, the best orientation of the groin is hard to unravel.

The study of ways of converting ocean wave energy into a useful one and the improvement of theexisting equipment are complex engineering problems and very important issues in today

The length of the Portuguese coast, the severity of the sea conditions and the concentration of population and economic activities on its coastal zone justify the importance of studying wave-induced risks and, in particular, flooding due to wave action. Indeed, emergency situations caused by adverse sea conditions are frequent and put in danger the safety of people and goods, with negative impacts for society, economy and natural heritage. So, assessing the risk of flooding of coastal and port areas is essential for the proper planning and management of these areas. In this framework, a methodology for the flood risk assessment in coastal and port areas is under development. The methodology is embedded into the HIDRALERTA system, a novel integrated system for port and coastal management, designed to prevent emergency situations, to support their management and to forecast incidental long-term interventions. The present paper describes the methodology, the HIDRALERTA system and a case study, the São João da Caparica beach, on the Lisbon

Para reducir la agitación en el interior del puerto de Vila do Porto, Azores, se ha proyectado una modificación del muelle interior de atraque de los ferries, con el objetivo de aminorar la reflexión y disminuir el rebase, sin que con eso se reduzca demasiado el área útil de la dársena portuaria. La solución propuesta es una plataforma de forma triangular en planta apoyada en pilares rectangulares, bajo la cual se ha colocado un talud de escollera para disminuir la reflexión. Se presentan los resultados de ensayos en modelo físico 3D y los obtenidos con dos modelos numéricos RANS en lo que se refiere a presiones en la plataforma y reducción de la reflexión (el modelo IH-2VOF y el FLUENT).

Submarine outfalls need to be evaluated as part of an integrated environmental protection system forcoastal areas. Although outfalls are tight with the diversity of economic activities along a denselypopulated coastline being effluent treatment and effluent reuse a sign of economic prosperity, precautionsmust be taken in the construction of these structures. They must be designed so as to have the leastpossible impact on the environment and at the same time be economically viable. This paper outlines theinitial phases of a risk assessment procedure for submarine outfall projects. This approach includesa cost-benefit analysis in which risks are systematically minimized or eliminated. The methods used inthis study also allow for randomness and uncertainty. The input for the analysis is a wide range ofinformation and data concerning the failure probability of outfalls and the consequences of an operationalstoppage or failure.As part of this risk assessment, target design levels of reliability, functionality, and operationality weredefined for the outfalls. These levels were based on an inventory of risks associated with suchconstruction projects, and thus afforded the possibility of identifying possible failure modes. Thisassessment procedure was then applied to four case studies in Portugal. The results obtained were thevalues concerning the useful life of the outfalls at the four sites and their joint probability of failureagainst the principal failure modes assigned to ultimate and serviceability limit states. Also defined werethe minimum operationality of these outfalls, the average number of admissible technical breakdowns,and the maximum allowed duration of a stoppage mode. It was found that these values were inconsonance with the nature of the effluent (tourist-related, industrial, or mixed) as well as its importancefor the local economy. Even more important, this risk assessment procedure was able to measure theimpact of the outfalls on human health and the environment.

Neste artigo descreve-se a ferramenta numérica SWAMS que se baseia nos modelosnuméricos DREAMS, BOUSS-WMH e MOORNAV para caracterizar a resposta dum navioamarrado no interior dum porto sujeito à acção da agitação marítima. Os dois primeirosmodelos simulam a propagação de ondas lineares e não lineares em zonas abrigadas deprofundidade variável, tendo em conta os fenómenos da refracção, difracção, reflexãoparcial, dissipação de energia devida ao atrito de fundo e rebentação das ondas. Enquantoo modelo DREAMS é um modelo linear baseado na equação de declive suave, o modelonão linear BOUSS-WMH é baseado nas equações de Boussinesq. O comportamento donavio amarrado é simulado com o pacote numérico MOORNAV que engloba um modelonumérico para resolver, no domínio da frequência, os problemas de radiação e de difraçãoda interacção de corpos flutuantes com ondas e um modelo que converte os resultadosdaqueles problemas do domínio do tempo para o domínio da frequência e que monta eresolve as equações do movimento do navio amarrado, BAS.Apresentam-se asmodificações introduzidas no modelo WAMIT para calcular as forças de difracção com basenas relações apresentadas em Haskind. Tais relações, porque utilizam o potencial develocidades obtido com o modelo DREAMS ou com o modelo BOUSS-WMH, permitemlevar em conta a refracção, difracção ou reflexão que podem ocorrer na propagação dasondas para o interior de uma bacia abrigada. Para além da descrição dos modelosnuméricos na ferramenta SWAMS, apresenta-se a forma como os resultados sãotransferidos entre eles bem como aplicações da mesma para ilustrar as suas capacidades.

The current study proposes prediction formulas both for random wave runup and mean overtopping discharge at seawalls constructedon land or in very shallow water. Although several existing formulas for runup and overtopping use the incident wave characteristicsat the toes of seawalls, this study adopts the equivalent deepwater wave characteristics and an imaginary seawall slope for easy application of theformulas, especially in relation to seawalls constructed on land. The prediction formulas for overtopping use the predicted runup values. For thewave runup prediction formulas two sets of experimental data are used; i.e., a new set of data and the data obtained in a previous study. For thewave overtopping prediction formulas, the experimental data measured in a previous study are used. Comparisons with measurements showgood performances of both new prediction methods.

This paper presents the new boundary condition implemented in the LNEC SPH numerical model based on theSPHysics model and on a standard Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamic formulation: the piston-type wave maker includesnow dynamic wave absorption and allows simulating a semi-infinite flume. Verification of the active wave makerabsorption is carried out through the simulation of the interaction between a regular incident wave and an impermeablevertical breakwater. Results show that the active wave-maker allows outgoing waves to be absorbed and reflection at thewave-maker to be avoided

Este artigo aborda a análise comparativa entre as medições de agitação marítima efectuadas na Praia da Cornélia (Costa da Caparica, Portugal), durante os dias 12 a 14 de Maio de 2010, e os resultados numéricos da aplicação do modelo não-linear do tipo Boussinesq, COULWAVE. Esta análise tem como principal objectivo a avaliação do desempenho deste modelo numérico na simulação da propagação de ondas em condições reais, pretendendo evidenciar, deste modo, as suas potencialidades e limitações.As condições de fronteira do modelo foram geradas com base em séries temporais de elevação medidas a uma profundidade aproximada de 7.6 m (relativa ao zero hidrográfico

O presente trabalho descreve a aplicação do modelo numérico COULWAVE ao estudo da propagação de ondas na zona da Praia do Lugar de Baixo, Madeira, com vista a simular as características hidrodinâmicas na zona de estudo permitindo analisar as alturas de ondas, zona de rebentação e reflexão da onda junto à costa. O objetivo final é propor soluções para a renaturalização desta zona e o melhoramento das condições de surf.

The objective of this paper is to describe and compare the use of different high-resolution survey techniques to create and analyse 3D surface models made up of point clouds, using open-source and freeware post-processing tools. Within this framework, several tests were conducted on a three-dimensional scale model of a breakwater, with surveys performed by a smartphone, the Microsoft® Kinect® sensor and a UAV camera. All the tests were conducted for a physical model placed in an empty wave tank. For this comparison, a number of post-processing software were used: the Microsoft Kinect Fusion Application, Visual SFM and MicMac, all freeware software. The clouds of points were compared using the CloudCompare freeware software and the Golden Software Surfer commercial software.In order to obtain a clear comparison between these tools (i.e., to better evaluate accuracy and associated errors), all the point clouds (with RGB colour information) were aligned with data coming from a survey used to coordinate some points in the model (Ground Control Points). All the clouds were compared with a corrected cloud based upon coordinated points painted on the concrete floor of the wave tank.The specific experimental conditions needed for using each of these methodologies were investigated and classified.

Nesta comunicação apresenta-se os novos desenvolvimentos que estão em curso no sistema SWAMS ALERT, que é um sistema previsão, alerta e avaliação de risco de eventos perigosos associados à navegação em áreas portuárias e ao comportamento dos navios amarrados.O sistema usa as características da agitação marítima previstas para determinar os seus efeitos em termos de forças em amarras e defensas, bem como de movimentos de um navio amarrado. Para isso, o sistema utiliza um conjunto de modelos numéricos. O sistema consiste em quatro módulos: I - Características da agitação marítima; II - Navegação em áreas portuárias; III - Avaliação de Risco e IV - Sistema de Alerta. A interface do sistema é através de uma plataforma web totalmente interativa e amigável.Ilustra-se a aplicação deste sistema ao porto da Praia da Vitória.

This paper presents recent new features of the Systematic Observation of Maritime Works (OSOM+) program, under development at LNEC since 1986, for using in an extensive number of maritime structures of mainland Portugal. Those functionalities are illustrated with applications to a real case scenario (the port of Ericeira) and by indicating their added-value on the existing methodology.

It is common for the local sea state in coastal waters to be a complex combination of waves due to local and recent wind (the "sea") and long period waves resulting from earlier weather systems, which have travelled many 100s of km with little attenuation of these very long waves (the "swell"). Sea and swell may have very different directions and periods.

This paper presents the validation of a wave maker with active absorption method implemented in FLUENT® RANS-VOF code for modelling long time series of waves propagating and interacting with coastal structures, more specifically, with Oscillating Water Column devices, to cancel out the reflected wave that reaches the wave maker. Verification of the numerical technique was performed in a 3D wave tank in which a technique of multiple active absorption wave makers was used. Good results were obtained in quasi-3D and fully-3D applications showing that active absorption should be used for modelling accurately the complex interaction between wave and coastal structures, in the present case, with an oscillating water column device integrated in a vertical breakwater.

Due to both its geographic location and maritime importance, Portugal is equipped with a large number of port infrastructures, the majority of which built for goals such as to guarantee the tranquility of the sheltered areas of the harbour basins, to help controlling sedimentation by guiding the currents, to protect water taken from thermoelectric plants, amongst others. In Portugal, the most common of these structures is the rubblemound breakwater. Due to its characteristics, maintenance or repair works are common throughout its lifetime. However, the need for these repair works should be evaluated in advance, in order to avoid significant costs associated to those works or, even worse, the collapse of the structure. It is therefore quite important to evaluate the Present Condition of the structure, as well its Evolution and Risk Conditions. The Present Condition is periodically checked on-site and all relevant data gathered is recorded, by filling in inspection forms, in order to perform further comparisons and analyses with previous inspections of the structure, as to eventually characterize Evolution and Risk conditions. To expedite all this process and prevent likely occurrence of errors in data collection, a monitoring tool, supported through a map-based online geographic information system (WebGIS) was developed, enabling the georeferencing of the structures concerned. This system adapts to the location of the user

The air entrainment effect on wave breaking is of the highest importance for the wave energy dissipation. Wave breaking is a complex phenomenon with several physical processes, making it difficult to quantify the contribution of the air in the energy dissipation process. This study presents a different approach where the wave propagation is exposed to air injected in the bottom of a wave flume. The experiment allows studying in a controlled environment the direct effect of the air bubbles in the wave propagation. The measurements show the free surface elevations and velocity profiles at two sections of the wave flume. The turbulence effect of the air injection on the wave propagation was evaluated. The results show differences for the three types of air injection that were tested. The air injection rate of each orifice is an important factor for the wave dissipation. The wave heights were found to decrease due to the air injection. The Turbulent Kinetic Energy shows an increase along the water column and on the downstream direction of the flume.

Apresenta-se nesta comunicação uma técnica baseada em análise de imagem para a medição e caraterização da concentração de ar produzida no processo de rebentação de onda. Para este efeito, realizaram-se filmagens dos ensaios num canal de ondas no Laboratório Nacional de Engenharia Civil (LNEC), que reproduzem dois tipos de rebentação de onda, progressiva e mergulhante. A validação da técnica de análise de imagem é feita por dois métodos, o primeiro com recurso à injeção de bolhas de ar através de uma bomba de ar e o segundo com a medição pontual da concentração de ar com uma sonda de deteção de bolhas de ar. Os resultados, relativos aos dois tipos de rebentação de onda, mostram as concentrações de ar e a distribuição da pluma de bolhas de ar. As medições realizadas permitem quantificar e caracterizar o ar emulsionado no processo de rebentação de onda.

Um dispositivo de aproveitamento da energia das ondas de tipo coluna de água oscilante (CAO) near-shore (que pode se assimilar a um cilindro vertical oco com a sua parte inferior aberta e a parte superior equipada com uma turbina Wells) implementada em profundidade intermédia pequena é estudado numericamente recorrendo a um modelo RANS-VOF 3D. O modelo numérico integra técnicas de geração e absorção das ondas por batedores múltiplos que permite dispor de um tanque de onda eficiente, eliminando as ondas reflectidas e difractadas. O dispositivo de CAO near-shore é um dispositivo alternativo ao clássico dispositivo integrado em quebra-mar ou na linha de costa e ao dispositivo off-shore (assimilado a um cilindro vertical oco estabilizado por um sistema de ancoragem por cabos) e tem duas vantagens: a resposta do dispositivo é independente da direcção das ondas e pode ser facilmente afundado no fundo do mar já que o dispositivo é desenhado para ser implementado em profundida pequena (~20 m). No entanto, a proximidade do fundo e a interacção complexa onda-estrutura resultante podem interferir em termo hidrodinâmico e energético na resposta do dispositivo CAO near-shore, comparativamente a um dispositivo off-shore. O artigo apresenta os primeiros resultados deste projecto através da análise pormenorizada de um caso de agitação marítima. Também, permite evidenciar e prever respostas diferentes do dispositivo CAO near-shore de um dispositivo clássico off-shore através da analise das series temporais de elevação de superfície livre, do caudal na turbina, da pressão na câmara-de-ar da CAO, da potência pneumática e dos vectores e campos de velocidade e de vorticidade ao redor e dentro do dispositivo.

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