Publications

Numerical modeling of the interaction between waves and coastal structures is a challenge due to the many nonlinearphenomena involved, such as wave propagation, wave transformation with water depth, interaction between incident andreflected waves, runup/rundown and wave overtopping. For simulating such complex free-surface flows, numerical modelsbased on Lagrangian formulation, such as Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics (SPH), are on option. Even though validationof these numerical models is essential, comparing numerical results with experimental data is not an easy task. In thepresent paper, an SPH numerical model is validated comparing numerical results of waves interacting with a compositebreakwater with data obtained from physical model tests carried out in one of the LNEC

Groins are cross shore structures built to promote shoreline stabilization. However, the specific impact of these structures on the wave conditions and velocity field nearshore (and hence, on sediment transport) is still poorly understood. Therefore, this study wishes to extend this knowledge using a numerical model, COULWAVE, previously validated with field data. For that, a typical bar-trough profile is considered and different groin lengths and orientations are tested, under the influence of different significant incident-wave heights and sea-surface levels.The hydrodynamics factors are found to have a greater impact on the nearshore wave conditions than the groin geometry. The variation of significant incident-wave height imparts the greater changes in wave height nearshore, where the groin would be located. The typical tidal range is also important, since a 2 m change in sea surface level can cause great depth changes over bathymetric features and thus influence wave propagation. Although less important, the geometry of the groin should also be considered. The greater the length, the greater the sheltering effect expected, extending further to the lee-side of the groin. The impact will also reach a broader region. With a smaller impact verified, the best orientation of the groin is hard to unravel.

The study of ways of converting ocean wave energy into a useful one and the improvement of theexisting equipment are complex engineering problems and very important issues in today

The length of the Portuguese coast, the severity of the sea conditions and the concentration of population and economic activities on its coastal zone justify the importance of studying wave-induced risks and, in particular, flooding due to wave action. Indeed, emergency situations caused by adverse sea conditions are frequent and put in danger the safety of people and goods, with negative impacts for society, economy and natural heritage. So, assessing the risk of flooding of coastal and port areas is essential for the proper planning and management of these areas. In this framework, a methodology for the flood risk assessment in coastal and port areas is under development. The methodology is embedded into the HIDRALERTA system, a novel integrated system for port and coastal management, designed to prevent emergency situations, to support their management and to forecast incidental long-term interventions. The present paper describes the methodology, the HIDRALERTA system and a case study, the São João da Caparica beach, on the Lisbon

Para reducir la agitación en el interior del puerto de Vila do Porto, Azores, se ha proyectado una modificación del muelle interior de atraque de los ferries, con el objetivo de aminorar la reflexión y disminuir el rebase, sin que con eso se reduzca demasiado el área útil de la dársena portuaria. La solución propuesta es una plataforma de forma triangular en planta apoyada en pilares rectangulares, bajo la cual se ha colocado un talud de escollera para disminuir la reflexión. Se presentan los resultados de ensayos en modelo físico 3D y los obtenidos con dos modelos numéricos RANS en lo que se refiere a presiones en la plataforma y reducción de la reflexión (el modelo IH-2VOF y el FLUENT).

Submarine outfalls need to be evaluated as part of an integrated environmental protection system forcoastal areas. Although outfalls are tight with the diversity of economic activities along a denselypopulated coastline being effluent treatment and effluent reuse a sign of economic prosperity, precautionsmust be taken in the construction of these structures. They must be designed so as to have the leastpossible impact on the environment and at the same time be economically viable. This paper outlines theinitial phases of a risk assessment procedure for submarine outfall projects. This approach includesa cost-benefit analysis in which risks are systematically minimized or eliminated. The methods used inthis study also allow for randomness and uncertainty. The input for the analysis is a wide range ofinformation and data concerning the failure probability of outfalls and the consequences of an operationalstoppage or failure.As part of this risk assessment, target design levels of reliability, functionality, and operationality weredefined for the outfalls. These levels were based on an inventory of risks associated with suchconstruction projects, and thus afforded the possibility of identifying possible failure modes. Thisassessment procedure was then applied to four case studies in Portugal. The results obtained were thevalues concerning the useful life of the outfalls at the four sites and their joint probability of failureagainst the principal failure modes assigned to ultimate and serviceability limit states. Also defined werethe minimum operationality of these outfalls, the average number of admissible technical breakdowns,and the maximum allowed duration of a stoppage mode. It was found that these values were inconsonance with the nature of the effluent (tourist-related, industrial, or mixed) as well as its importancefor the local economy. Even more important, this risk assessment procedure was able to measure theimpact of the outfalls on human health and the environment.

Neste artigo descreve-se a ferramenta numérica SWAMS que se baseia nos modelosnuméricos DREAMS, BOUSS-WMH e MOORNAV para caracterizar a resposta dum navioamarrado no interior dum porto sujeito à acção da agitação marítima. Os dois primeirosmodelos simulam a propagação de ondas lineares e não lineares em zonas abrigadas deprofundidade variável, tendo em conta os fenómenos da refracção, difracção, reflexãoparcial, dissipação de energia devida ao atrito de fundo e rebentação das ondas. Enquantoo modelo DREAMS é um modelo linear baseado na equação de declive suave, o modelonão linear BOUSS-WMH é baseado nas equações de Boussinesq. O comportamento donavio amarrado é simulado com o pacote numérico MOORNAV que engloba um modelonumérico para resolver, no domínio da frequência, os problemas de radiação e de difraçãoda interacção de corpos flutuantes com ondas e um modelo que converte os resultadosdaqueles problemas do domínio do tempo para o domínio da frequência e que monta eresolve as equações do movimento do navio amarrado, BAS.Apresentam-se asmodificações introduzidas no modelo WAMIT para calcular as forças de difracção com basenas relações apresentadas em Haskind. Tais relações, porque utilizam o potencial develocidades obtido com o modelo DREAMS ou com o modelo BOUSS-WMH, permitemlevar em conta a refracção, difracção ou reflexão que podem ocorrer na propagação dasondas para o interior de uma bacia abrigada. Para além da descrição dos modelosnuméricos na ferramenta SWAMS, apresenta-se a forma como os resultados sãotransferidos entre eles bem como aplicações da mesma para ilustrar as suas capacidades.

The current study proposes prediction formulas both for random wave runup and mean overtopping discharge at seawalls constructedon land or in very shallow water. Although several existing formulas for runup and overtopping use the incident wave characteristicsat the toes of seawalls, this study adopts the equivalent deepwater wave characteristics and an imaginary seawall slope for easy application of theformulas, especially in relation to seawalls constructed on land. The prediction formulas for overtopping use the predicted runup values. For thewave runup prediction formulas two sets of experimental data are used; i.e., a new set of data and the data obtained in a previous study. For thewave overtopping prediction formulas, the experimental data measured in a previous study are used. Comparisons with measurements showgood performances of both new prediction methods.

This paper presents the new boundary condition implemented in the LNEC SPH numerical model based on theSPHysics model and on a standard Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamic formulation: the piston-type wave maker includesnow dynamic wave absorption and allows simulating a semi-infinite flume. Verification of the active wave makerabsorption is carried out through the simulation of the interaction between a regular incident wave and an impermeablevertical breakwater. Results show that the active wave-maker allows outgoing waves to be absorbed and reflection at thewave-maker to be avoided

Este artigo aborda a análise comparativa entre as medições de agitação marítima efectuadas na Praia da Cornélia (Costa da Caparica, Portugal), durante os dias 12 a 14 de Maio de 2010, e os resultados numéricos da aplicação do modelo não-linear do tipo Boussinesq, COULWAVE. Esta análise tem como principal objectivo a avaliação do desempenho deste modelo numérico na simulação da propagação de ondas em condições reais, pretendendo evidenciar, deste modo, as suas potencialidades e limitações.As condições de fronteira do modelo foram geradas com base em séries temporais de elevação medidas a uma profundidade aproximada de 7.6 m (relativa ao zero hidrográfico

An investigation of the applicability of the SWASH model for wave overtopping estimation of a porous structure with a recurved wall was carried out. The results demonstrate the capability of SWASH to predict with good accuracy the mean overtopping discharges when compared to data from physical model tests. Also, detailed validation of the instantaneous wave overtopping shows a reasonable agreement.Whilst free surface is well represented without considering several parametrizations, even for one-layer mode, wave overtopping is very sensitive to any variation in numerical and physical parameters. Wave overtopping simulations are very sensitive to the non-linear Forchheimer coefficient,

This paper focus on the study of different methodologies for surveying two-dimensional scale models of a rubble mound breakwaters.Tests were conducted in one of the LNEC

Este artigo descreve os mais recentes desenvolvimentos do sistema SWAMS ALERT. O sistema consiste em quatro módulos: I - Características da agitação marítima; II - Navegação em áreas portuárias; III - Avaliação de Risco e IV - Sistema de Alerta. O sistema está a ser desenvolvido e implementado numa plataforma web totalmente interativa e amigável.O sistema SWAMS ALERT usa as características da agitação marítima medidas ou previstas para determinar os seus efeitos em termos de movimento vertical excessivo de uma embarcação em manobras que entra ou sai de uma bacia portuária ou em termos de forças em amarras e defensas, bem como de movimentos de um navio amarrado. Para isso, o sistema utiliza um conjunto de modelos numéricos. A comparação dos valores calculados das variáveis relevantes com valores máximos pré-definidos permite a avaliação em tempo real de possíveis situações de emergência ou quando a segurança das operações portuárias estiver em risco e emitir avisos às autoridades competentes; e ainda a construção de mapas de risco, considerando longas séries temporais de ondas de mar medidas ou previstas ou cenários predefinidos associados a alterações climáticas ou eventos extremos.Ilustra-se a aplicação deste sistema ao porto da Praia da Vitória.

The design of certain seawalls / breakwaters has often been required to achieve very low target overtopping discharges when these structures protect vulnerable infrastructure or activities. The balance between economically viable protection and performance requirements is often difficult to achieve without good knowledge on low overtopping. The paucity of data in this space and the high uncertainties associated with existing methods, increase the challenge. The occurrence of a low number of overtopping waves has the consequence that any test results are substantially more affected by the inherent variation of random waves, therefore more uncertain. The physical model test results presented hereafter were successful in obtaining low to very low overtopping discharge data. For low / very low overtopping, these test data present considerable scatter relative to the latest empirical prediction. A number of repetitions was performed for conditions giving very low overtopping discharges, which illustrated the inherent uncertainty associated with low overtopping.

Rubble mound breakwaters (RMB) are the most common maritime structures in Portugal. Their main goal is to reduce the action of waves on the sheltered area of the structure to achieve safety conditions for ships, people and harbour activities.To account and define the need for maintenance or repair works on such structures, it is necessary to evaluate its evolution along its expected lifetime. To predict damages that may occur in those structures and evaluate its importance in terms of structural safety and functionality, it is therefore of utmost importance to follow a monitoring program on such structures. For that purpose, a monitoring mobile tool to be used onsite by the observer would be very useful, adding in this way more efficiency to the existing traditional monitoring techniques used nowadays at LNEC, where visual, systematic, observations are made to attain relevant qualitative evaluation of those structures.Hence, a responsive WebGIS system was developed (Maia et al., 2017) for assisting the observation campaigns, enabling the introduction of photos and videos, their accurate georeferencing, the automatic evaluation of the current, and evolutive, structural state of the structure, and also the checking of physical characteristics of the structure and materials.Besides briefly describing the monitoring tool, this paper focuses primarily on demonstrating its application to a real case scenario of an inspection campaign to the RMB of Ericeira,Portugal, on the 20th of April 2017.

O LNEC tem implementado, desde 1986, um programa designado por OSOM (Observação Sistemática de Obras Marítimas) para quebra-mares de talude localizados em Portugal continental. Para armazenamento, consulta e análise da informação que vai sendo recolhida sobre os diferentes quebramares no programa OSOM, desenvolveu-se no LNEC a aplicação ANOSOM (Análise de Observação Sistemática de Obras Marítimas), a qual tem vindo a ser alvo de diversas atualizações, inclusivamente o manuseamento de nuvens de pontos provenientes de levantamentos dos quebra-mares com sistema de sondador multifeixe e/ou com a ajuda de UAV. Presentemente está em desenvolvimento uma aplicação Web a, ANOSOM_SIG, a qual virá a ser utilizada como interface da base de dados ANOSOM que inclui as funcionalidades de um Sistema de Informação Geográfica (SIG), transformando-se assim, numa ferramenta de gestão de risco em estruturas de proteção costeira e portuária.O objetivo desta comunicação é descrever a aplicação ANOSOM_SIG, bem como as suas funcionalidades até agora implementadas, apresentando alguns exemplos de aplicação.

This paper ilustrates lhe application of a non-linear shallow water numerical model, AMAZON, to study Oscillating Water Column Wave Energy Converters (OWC-WEC) inregrated in vertical breakwaters. This application has been performed within the scope of the research project DITOWEC - Development of an Integrated Tool for Numerical Modelling of Oscillating Water Cohumn Wave Energy Converters Integrated in Vertical Breakwaters. The main objective of DITOWEC is the development of an innovative integrated tool for numerical modeling of wave propagation from offshore to nearshore, of wave-structure interaction and of the complex nonlinear hydrodynamic and aerodynamic phenomena that occur in an OWC-WEC. This development is supported by field data from PICO power plant (Azores) and from two-dimensional experimental data, from physical model tests carried out at LNEC, which are used here for AMAZON calibration/validation. A sensitivity analysis on AMAZON parameters (grid resolution and momentum adjustment factor at vertical barrier) is presented and discussed, centered on wave height obtained near and inside lhe water chamber, amplification factor and phase lag. The obtained AMAZON results are encouraging though more tests are required for different water depths, vertical openings and incoming wave periods, allowing further calibration and validation of the momentum adjustment factor.

Com base em 10 anos de dados de temporais medidos na boía ondógrafo de Sines entre os anos 2001 e 2010, analisaram-se as características de diversos parâmetros da agitação, entre as quais as alturas de onda (significativa e máxima), o período médio e a direção de agitação. Em particular estudou-se a relação entre alturas de onda máxima e alturas de onda significativa durante condições de temporal, compararam-se as relações encontradas com as propostas na literatura e usualmente aplicadas no dimensionamento de quebra-mares verticais, e analisou-se a sua influência na estabilidade dessas estruturas. Verificou-se que os coeficientes de segurança calculados com base em valores de altura máxima registada são inferiores aos calculados com a relação proposta na literatura.

O dispositivo de aproveitamento de energia das ondas de tipo coluna de água oscilante (CAO) é um sistema que foi desenvolvido há já algumas décadas. Em condições de agitação marítima forte, pode ocorrer entrada de ar na câmara-de-ar do dispositivo, pela abertura submersa, comprometendo assim o seu rendimento. A colocação de uma parede vertical submersa, em frente ao dispositivo (UCAO), permite evitar este problema, mas altera o seu desempenho. Neste artigo, o modelo SPH é utilizado para uma primeira análise comparativa da hidrodinâmica dos dois dispositivos. Verifica-se que o factor de amplificação é fortemente condicionado pela dimensão da abertura submersa, reduzindo-se para uma abertura pequena, particularmente para os períodos de onda mais baixos. A amplitude da cava, na câmara de água e em frente ao dispositivo, é menor na configuração de UCAO que na CAO. É, assim, evidente que a UCAO reduz fortemente o risco de sucção de ar na câmara, embora reduza o factor de amplificação, quando comparada com a CAO.

The phenomenon of scour in the vicinity of coastal and harbour protection structures, wind farms, offshore platforms and marine outfalls is one of the causes associated with its collapse. During the design of such structures, the prediction of the maximum erosion depth located in the vicinity of the structure is of utmost importance, requiring, frequently, a validation by scale-model tests. The objective of this study is to validate the use of stereo photogrammetry in such tests. To accomplish this goal, two sets of tests were conducted: A stereo photogrammetric survey of a well-known shape molded in a sand box was carried out in order to infer on the accuracy of the technique when applied to a sand bed. The second set of tests consisted on the survey of the scour around a pile, using the stereo photogrammetric method as well as a bed profiler in order to compare the results obtained with both methods.

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