Publications

Knowing the vertical structure of particle velocity is very important for the sediment transportation study. Recentdevelopment of computer resources and high performance computing enable us to use numerical models withmore information in the vertical direction. In this paper, the performance of multi-layered Boussinesq model(COULWAVE) and RANS model (COBRAS-UC) on a bar-trough profile beach is examined. Results, in termsof wave heights computed by both models and the time series of the horizontal velocity (computed withCOBRAS-UC model) are compared with the experimental data collected by Okamoto et al. (2008) for the testcase with an incident wave of period T=1.5sec and height of H=8cm, in which the detailed vertical structure ofparticle velocity was measured. Both models can predict the wave height change very well until the wavebreaking initiates and specially COBRAS-UC model. However, it does not agree to the experimental data afterthe wave breaking initiation. The COBRAS-UC model calculates the horizontal velocity near the free surfacevery well, but it does not agree to the experimental data in the lower section of the water column.

Nesta comunicação, apresenta-se o estudo efectuado para a determinação doespraiamento e cotas de inundação numa estrutura de enrocamento existente napraia de Vale do Lobo, situada no Concelho de Loulé, na região do Algarve.Com base nas características da agitação marítima determinadas na praia juntoao pé da estrutura durante o ano de 1991, com o sistema GUIOMAR,considerando dois níveis de maré, procedeu-se ao cálculo do espraiamento sobrea estrutura. Para tal, recorreu-se às fórmulas empíricas de TAW (2002) e de vander Meer e Stam (1992). Determinaram-se, também, as respectivas cotas deinundação. Tal permitiu avaliar a influência do nível de maré nos valores deespraiamento encontrados, bem como das diferenças associadas à utilização dasduas formulações.

The Port of Sines is located on the west coast of Portugal, sheltered by two breakwaters: thewest and the east breakwaters (Figure 1). Originally, the west breakwater was 2 km long indepths up to 50 m, protected by two armour layers of 400 kN dolosse on a 1:1.5 slope(Mettam, 1976). In February 1978, immediately after breakwater construction, a storm, with asignificant wave height of 8 m, damaged the breakwater armour layer in four different areas.One year later, a more severe storm caused failure of almost the entire armour layer andsuperstructure, leading to urgent repair works during the 1980s. The last rehabilitation workswere concluded in 1992.

O conhecimento da agitação marítima é fundamental para o planeamento de intervenções e estudos costeiros, para simular os possíveis impactos ambientais de obras de engenharia e para a definição de procedimentos em situações de emergência. Os modelos numéricos de propagação de ondas, devido à sua rapidez, flexibilidade e gama de aplicação, contribuem de forma importante para os estudos costeiros. Apesar destas qualidades permitirem a simulação de diversos cenários de forma simplificada, os modelos exigem a utilização de grandes quantidades de dados e originam também grandes quantidades de resultados para cada caso em estudo.Os sistemas de informação geográfica permitem a organização e interpretação de grandes quantidades de informação, mostrando de forma rápida os padrões e tendências principais em qualquer processo de tomada de decisão.Neste âmbito tem vindo a ser desenvolvido o sistema GUIOMAR: Geo(Graphical) User Interface for cOastal and MARine modeling, um sistema integrado para a modelação da agitação marítima, aplicado à zona costeira portuguesa e que inclui todas as funcionalidades de um SIG.A versão actual do sistema foi desenvolvida em linguagem VBA (Visual Basic for Applications) para o ArcGIS9.0TM. O sistema GUIOMAR tem 3 componentes principais: (i) um software comercial de SIG; (ii) uma interface com o utilizador que é responsável pela comunicação entre o utilizador e o sistema; (iii) um conjunto de modelos de propagação de ondas, com diferentes domínios de aplicação: REF/DIF 1(Dalrymple e Kirby, 1991), REF/DIF S(Kirby e Ozkan, 1994), FUNWAVE 1D e 2D (Kirby et al., 1998), DREAMS (Fortes, 2002) e SWAN (Booij et al., 1999); Inclui também um programa de construção de malhas não estruturadas para os modelos numéricos, GMALHA (Pinheiro et al., 2006).O trabalho apresenta numa aplicação do sistema GUIOMAR ao Porto de Sines na qual foram testados os desenvolvimentos mais recentes do sistema, como é o caso da acoplagem dos modelos de propagação de ondas DREAMS e SWAN através da interface do GUIOMAR. Para tal, foi efectuada uma caracterização intensiva do Porto de Sines para o cálculo dos coeficientes de reflexão a aplicar no modelo DREAMS. O resultado final deste trabalho foi a caracterização do regime de agitação marítima dentro e fora do porto de Sines através da utilização dos procedimentos implementados no sistema GUIOMAR.

GUIOMAR is an integrated system for coastal engineering modeling, developed with a commercial software of Geographical Information Systems (GIS). This system allows the utilization of both wave propagation models and of all the functionalities that are inherent to the GIS software, and it is being designed to help in the decision making process in coastal areas. GUIOMAR system is composed of three main components: a GIS commercial software, a set of modules/models of wave propagation and other pre and post processing algorithms programmed in FORTRANTM, and a Graphical User Interface (GUI) developed in VBA for ArcGISTM, which is responsible for the communication between the user and the system. At the moment, are available six wave propagation models and a program that automatically generates unstructured grids for the numerical models. In this paper, GUIOMAR structure and a general overview of its interface are presented. In order to achieve important information about the system operability, a test was made for an important Portuguese harbor. Sines harbor, at the southeast of Europe, 37º 57

This paper describes the implementation of a new boundary conditions in the BOUSSIIW model (BOUSSinesq model with Internal Irregular Wave generation). BOUSSIIW is a finite element numerical model for wave propagation in near shore regions that is able to describe the wave field outside and inside harbours and sheltered zones. It is based upon the extended Boussinesq equation derived by Nwogu. These equations describe the nonlinear evolution of waves over a sloping impermeable bottom and are able to reproduce some of the most important physical effects associated with the nonlinear wave transformation in near shore regions. Their range of validity extends from shallow up to intermediate water depths. Monochromatic and irregular waves can be generated by the model using the source function method. The two boundary conditions available were full reflection or full absorption. A new partial reflection boundary condition is implemented. The model is validated with a simple test case. Reflection coefficients obtained with BOUSSIIW were compared to widely used empirical formula, enabling the assessment of the new condition

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This paper presents the results of the study performed for estimating the run-up and flood levelsin a stretch of Vale do Lobo beach, located at Loulé Municipality, in the Algarve region.The study started by defining the offshore wave conditions in the area, based upon data collectedduring 1991 by the Portuguese Hydrographic Institute with a directional wave-buoy located atFaro. These conditions were then transferred to the vicinity of Vale do Lobo beach by using theGUIOMAR system, namely its SWAN module. GUIOMAR is an integrated system for modellingwave propagation in coastal engineering studies. It is currently being developed to providesupport for a sustainable planning and management of the costal area.Two empirical formulations were applied for estimating the run-up at Vale do Lobo beach during1991: one based on field data and the other based on physical model tests. Two water levelswere considered and a sensitivity analysis was performed to evaluate the differences betweenthe two formulations and the impact of some of the parameters on the end results. The floodlevels were also estimated.

This paper presents an experimental and numerical study of 2-D wave diffraction by a fixed horizontal-axis submergedcircular cylinder. The objective of the paper is to report and validate results from the fully nonlinear 2-D boundary-elementmethod code CANAL; to assess the capability of the physical wave flume and the measurement methodology to study thistype of problem; and to contribute to the understanding of the wave diffraction by a circular cylinder. Two test cases arepresented, both in deep-water conditions. The cylinder axis submergence is 1^5r (r is the cylinder radius) for the first case,and 3r for the second, the latter corresponding to the experimental study presented in the paper. A discretization convergenceevaluation is also presented for the second case. The good agreement between the numerical and the experimental resultsproves that this numerical model is able to accurately simulate this type of problems. No reflection was noticed on the incidentwave side of the cylinder. It was found that nonlinear resonant interactions occur between the fundamental frequency andthe harmonics on the transmitted wave side of the cylinder. Free waves were observed on this part of the wave flume.

Com vista a otimizar a geometria do prolongamento do quebra-mar exterior do Porto de Leixões, bem como avaliar os impactes desse prolongamento nas condições de agitação na praia de Matosinhos, efetuou-se a caraterização da agitação marítima na zona de estudo, considerando várias soluções alternativas para o quebra-mar. A presente comunicação descreve os estudos realizados em modelo numérico para: a) o estabelecimento de regimes de agitação no exterior do porto, b) a caracterização da agitação e ressonância no interior do porto; c) a avaliação dos impactes do prolongamento do quebra-mar nas condições de agitação da praia de Matosinhos.

No âmbito do projeto HYDRALAB+ (H2020-INFRAIA-2014-2015), foi realizado no LNEC um conjunto de ensaios em modelo físico bidimensional (2D) de um perfil de um quebra-mar de talude em enrocamento, construído à escala geométrica 1:30, para diferentes condições de agitação marítima e níveis de maré correspondentes a cenários de alterações climáticas. Estas experiências tinham como objetivo analisar o dano, o espraiamento e o galgamento, nesses cenários.Em paralelo, na Faculdade de Engenharia da Universidade do Porto (FEUP), e em colaboração com Deltares, NL, foram realizados testes com a mesma configuração do quebra-mar, mas utilizando um modelo físico tridimensional (3D), à escala geométrica 1:35. Os resultados obtidos permitiram analisar a evolução do dano no manto resistente do quebra-mar (talude anterior, talude posterior e cabeça), assim como o galgamento, para condições de teste com e sem sobrelevação do nível médio da água do mar, considerando ou não a reconstrução do talude do quebramar entre testes consecutivos de uma mesma série de testes. Foram também realizados testes com ondas multidirecionais.O presente trabalho incide sobre a análise da evolução do dano para as diferentes sequências de tempestade em cenários de alterações climáticas. O dano é avaliado com base no tradicional método de contagem de blocos removidos e ainda com base no parâmetro adimensional do dano, S recorrendo a técnicas estereofotogramétricas.Em termos gerais, concluiu-se que o dano era mais elevado na proximidade do nível de repouso da água e que aumentava com a altura de onda significativa. Os danos foram, em geral, menores nos testes com ondas multidirecionais. Observaram-se, ainda, diferenças significativas entre os testes com danos cumulativos e com reconstrução do quebra-mar após cada teste. Nos ensaios realizados no LNEC com aumento do nível médio do mar e alternância entre dois níveis de maré, verificou-se um ligeiro aumento do dano devido ao aumento faixa onde ocorre erosão do perfil.

This paper presents a series of tests on a reduced physical model to reproduce the behavior of a moored oil tanker. The measurement techniques used and all the instrumentation are presented. Data analysis techniques are also presented. The objective of the tests is the characterization of the incident marine agitation and the response of the ship, including the movements according to 6 degrees of freedom and the forces in the mooring system.The tests were carried out in one of the tanks of the Marine Hydraulic Pavilion of the National Laboratory of Civil Engineering, using for the generation of marine agitation a batter capable of generating irregular waves.The vessel used is a scale model of the "Esso Osaka" tanker with a length of 3.43 m, a width of 0.53 m and a maximum draft of 0.23 m and is lying in terminal A of the Port of Leixões. The entire port area was built at 1:80 scale, including bathymetry and port structures. The waves are generated outside the port to the bathymetric of -20m ZHL (zero hydrographic of Leixões). Several sea states were simulated with irregular waves with periods between 10s and 16s and significant wave heights between 2m and 6m.The vessel is instrumented with an optical motion capture system according to the six degrees of freedom, composed of 4 cameras of high resolution that allows to follow the position of several targets placed in the ship and 6 load cells to measure the forces in the moorings and defenses. The measurement of free surface elevation was performed with a set of resistive probes and an ADV.

O sistema de proteção costeira da Cova-Gala, a sul da Figueira da Foz, inclui defesas longitudinais aderentes datadas de 1975 que têm como objetivo proteger a povoação da ação do mar. Ao longo dos anos têm-se registado eventos de galgamento destas obras que colocam em risco pessoas e bens. Face a uma possível subida do nível do mar na costa oeste portuguesa, é importante analisar a sua influência no agravamento do galgamento destas estruturas. Para tal, calculou-se o galgamento com a fórmula de Mase et al. (2013) utilizando as condições de agitação ao largo e níveis de mar obtidas de modelos de hindcast. Calculou-se ainda o caudal galgado para as mesmas condições de agitação e diferentes projeções de subida do nível do mar. A comparação de resultados permitiu concluir sobre o efeito da subida do nível do mar no galgamento para os valores considerados.

Usually, physical model tests support the design of breakwaters considering different incident wave conditions, including extreme events. This paper describes two-dimensional physical model tests of a rock armour breakwater, performed at LNEC´s experimental facilities, under the framework of the HYDRALAB+ project. The goal of the present work is to evaluate damage evolution under wave conditions resulting from future climate change scenarios. Test results are presented in terms of the non-dimensional damage parameter (S) and of the percentage of displaced armour units (D). The data analysis is focused on the cumulative damage progression related with wave parameters as Hmax and H2%, for the imposed storm sequences. The use of the stability number (Ns), considering both H=Hs and H=H2% revealed a good agreement in order to characterize its relationship with damage evolution. On the other hand, the use of Hmax revealed a decrease of the linearity on damage evolution.

Usually, physical model tests support the design of breakwaters considering different incident wave conditions, including extreme events. This paper describes two-dimensional physical model tests of a rock armour breakwater, performed at LNEC´s experimental facilities, under the framework of the HYDRALAB+ project. The goal of the present work is to evaluate damage evolution under wave conditions resulting from future climate change scenarios. Test results are presented in terms of the non-dimensional damage parameter (S) and of the percentage of displaced armour units (D). The data analysis is focused on the cumulative damage progression related with wave parameters as Hmax and H2%, for the imposed storm sequences. The use of the stability number (Ns), considering both H=Hs and H=H2% revealed a good agreement in order to characterize its relationship with damage evolution. On the other hand, the use of Hmax revealed a decrease of the linearity on damage evolution.

Nesta comunicação descreve-se a análise bidimensional (2D) em modelo físico do espraiamento e galgamento de um quebra-mar de talude, em cenários de alterações climáticas, realizado no âmbito do projeto HYDRALAB+ (H2020-INFRAIA-2014-2015). Com efeito, a subida do nível médio do mar, bem como o aumento da intensidade e frequência de temporais, previsível em tais cenários, pode dar origem a fenómenos de espraiamento e galgamento das estruturas de proteção costeiras e portuárias, cada vez mais intensos e frequentes, tornando as estruturas mais vulneráveis, bem como as zonas por elas protegidas.Assim, num canal de ondas irregulares do LNEC, foi construído um perfil de um quebra-mar de enrocamento, à escala 1:30, e definido um programa de 15 ensaios, considerando valores de altura de onda significativa, período de pico e níveis de água representativos de condições de agitação incidente extremas, a que se poderão associar os referidos cenários de alterações climáticas.Para cada ensaio, efetuaram-se medições da elevação da superfície livre, do espraiamento e do caudal médio galgado. Os valores experimentais de espraiamento e de galgamento foram comparados com os previstos pelas formulações empíricas do EurOtop, para um dos cenários de alterações climáticas testado.

This paper describes a programme under the responsibility of LNEC for the systematic observation and monitoring of maritime works, termed OSOM+, that has successfully been applied to an extensive number of maritime structures on the Portuguese mainland coast and abroad.The OSOM+ programme comprises the following four main components for each structure: Periodic visual inspections by a trained technician; Periodic aerial inspections with a UAV/drone; The ANOSOM-GIS database, to store and/or query obtained information, as well as to diagnose present, evolution and risk conditions; A mobile, portable, application, for real-time input and visualization of the database information.This recently updated methodology encompasses a number of tools and functionalities that are illustrated in this paper with applications to a real case scenario, the Ericeira

This paper describes the physical model, experimental setup and tests performed at the Portuguese Civil Engineering Laboratory (LNEC), to study the motions and forces of a moored ship at the Leixões port, for different sea states in irregular waves. The tests were carried out at one of the wave tanks of LNEC, where the Leixões port layout was implemented at scale 1:80 with the detailed model similar to the prototype bathymetry and surrounding structures. The moored ship is a 3.43 m long scale model of the well-known

Scour protections are commonly designed according to semi-empiric methodologies, which are based on a deterministic approach. This often results in overestimated dimensions of the protection, namely, regarding the required minimum stone size for offshore engineering. Therefore, excessive costs of the protection are expected, when the deterministic design methodology is used. Moreover, these methodologies do not provide a measure of safety associated to the design of the scour protection. In this paper, one uses copulas theory to model the correlated long-term behaviour of the significant wave height and peak period. The statistical models are then used to address the probability of failure of a case study scour protection. The results show that the copula models influence the safety assessment of the scour protection. The research also includes a brief analysis of physical model tests, which were successfully used to define dynamically and statically stable scour protections for the case study analysed.

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