Publications

Knowing the vertical structure of particle velocity is very important for the sediment transportation study. Recentdevelopment of computer resources and high performance computing enable us to use numerical models withmore information in the vertical direction. In this paper, the performance of multi-layered Boussinesq model(COULWAVE) and RANS model (COBRAS-UC) on a bar-trough profile beach is examined. Results, in termsof wave heights computed by both models and the time series of the horizontal velocity (computed withCOBRAS-UC model) are compared with the experimental data collected by Okamoto et al. (2008) for the testcase with an incident wave of period T=1.5sec and height of H=8cm, in which the detailed vertical structure ofparticle velocity was measured. Both models can predict the wave height change very well until the wavebreaking initiates and specially COBRAS-UC model. However, it does not agree to the experimental data afterthe wave breaking initiation. The COBRAS-UC model calculates the horizontal velocity near the free surfacevery well, but it does not agree to the experimental data in the lower section of the water column.

Nesta comunicação, apresenta-se o estudo efectuado para a determinação doespraiamento e cotas de inundação numa estrutura de enrocamento existente napraia de Vale do Lobo, situada no Concelho de Loulé, na região do Algarve.Com base nas características da agitação marítima determinadas na praia juntoao pé da estrutura durante o ano de 1991, com o sistema GUIOMAR,considerando dois níveis de maré, procedeu-se ao cálculo do espraiamento sobrea estrutura. Para tal, recorreu-se às fórmulas empíricas de TAW (2002) e de vander Meer e Stam (1992). Determinaram-se, também, as respectivas cotas deinundação. Tal permitiu avaliar a influência do nível de maré nos valores deespraiamento encontrados, bem como das diferenças associadas à utilização dasduas formulações.

The Port of Sines is located on the west coast of Portugal, sheltered by two breakwaters: thewest and the east breakwaters (Figure 1). Originally, the west breakwater was 2 km long indepths up to 50 m, protected by two armour layers of 400 kN dolosse on a 1:1.5 slope(Mettam, 1976). In February 1978, immediately after breakwater construction, a storm, with asignificant wave height of 8 m, damaged the breakwater armour layer in four different areas.One year later, a more severe storm caused failure of almost the entire armour layer andsuperstructure, leading to urgent repair works during the 1980s. The last rehabilitation workswere concluded in 1992.

O conhecimento da agitação marítima é fundamental para o planeamento de intervenções e estudos costeiros, para simular os possíveis impactos ambientais de obras de engenharia e para a definição de procedimentos em situações de emergência. Os modelos numéricos de propagação de ondas, devido à sua rapidez, flexibilidade e gama de aplicação, contribuem de forma importante para os estudos costeiros. Apesar destas qualidades permitirem a simulação de diversos cenários de forma simplificada, os modelos exigem a utilização de grandes quantidades de dados e originam também grandes quantidades de resultados para cada caso em estudo.Os sistemas de informação geográfica permitem a organização e interpretação de grandes quantidades de informação, mostrando de forma rápida os padrões e tendências principais em qualquer processo de tomada de decisão.Neste âmbito tem vindo a ser desenvolvido o sistema GUIOMAR: Geo(Graphical) User Interface for cOastal and MARine modeling, um sistema integrado para a modelação da agitação marítima, aplicado à zona costeira portuguesa e que inclui todas as funcionalidades de um SIG.A versão actual do sistema foi desenvolvida em linguagem VBA (Visual Basic for Applications) para o ArcGIS9.0TM. O sistema GUIOMAR tem 3 componentes principais: (i) um software comercial de SIG; (ii) uma interface com o utilizador que é responsável pela comunicação entre o utilizador e o sistema; (iii) um conjunto de modelos de propagação de ondas, com diferentes domínios de aplicação: REF/DIF 1(Dalrymple e Kirby, 1991), REF/DIF S(Kirby e Ozkan, 1994), FUNWAVE 1D e 2D (Kirby et al., 1998), DREAMS (Fortes, 2002) e SWAN (Booij et al., 1999); Inclui também um programa de construção de malhas não estruturadas para os modelos numéricos, GMALHA (Pinheiro et al., 2006).O trabalho apresenta numa aplicação do sistema GUIOMAR ao Porto de Sines na qual foram testados os desenvolvimentos mais recentes do sistema, como é o caso da acoplagem dos modelos de propagação de ondas DREAMS e SWAN através da interface do GUIOMAR. Para tal, foi efectuada uma caracterização intensiva do Porto de Sines para o cálculo dos coeficientes de reflexão a aplicar no modelo DREAMS. O resultado final deste trabalho foi a caracterização do regime de agitação marítima dentro e fora do porto de Sines através da utilização dos procedimentos implementados no sistema GUIOMAR.

GUIOMAR is an integrated system for coastal engineering modeling, developed with a commercial software of Geographical Information Systems (GIS). This system allows the utilization of both wave propagation models and of all the functionalities that are inherent to the GIS software, and it is being designed to help in the decision making process in coastal areas. GUIOMAR system is composed of three main components: a GIS commercial software, a set of modules/models of wave propagation and other pre and post processing algorithms programmed in FORTRANTM, and a Graphical User Interface (GUI) developed in VBA for ArcGISTM, which is responsible for the communication between the user and the system. At the moment, are available six wave propagation models and a program that automatically generates unstructured grids for the numerical models. In this paper, GUIOMAR structure and a general overview of its interface are presented. In order to achieve important information about the system operability, a test was made for an important Portuguese harbor. Sines harbor, at the southeast of Europe, 37º 57

This paper describes the implementation of a new boundary conditions in the BOUSSIIW model (BOUSSinesq model with Internal Irregular Wave generation). BOUSSIIW is a finite element numerical model for wave propagation in near shore regions that is able to describe the wave field outside and inside harbours and sheltered zones. It is based upon the extended Boussinesq equation derived by Nwogu. These equations describe the nonlinear evolution of waves over a sloping impermeable bottom and are able to reproduce some of the most important physical effects associated with the nonlinear wave transformation in near shore regions. Their range of validity extends from shallow up to intermediate water depths. Monochromatic and irregular waves can be generated by the model using the source function method. The two boundary conditions available were full reflection or full absorption. A new partial reflection boundary condition is implemented. The model is validated with a simple test case. Reflection coefficients obtained with BOUSSIIW were compared to widely used empirical formula, enabling the assessment of the new condition

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This paper presents the results of the study performed for estimating the run-up and flood levelsin a stretch of Vale do Lobo beach, located at Loulé Municipality, in the Algarve region.The study started by defining the offshore wave conditions in the area, based upon data collectedduring 1991 by the Portuguese Hydrographic Institute with a directional wave-buoy located atFaro. These conditions were then transferred to the vicinity of Vale do Lobo beach by using theGUIOMAR system, namely its SWAN module. GUIOMAR is an integrated system for modellingwave propagation in coastal engineering studies. It is currently being developed to providesupport for a sustainable planning and management of the costal area.Two empirical formulations were applied for estimating the run-up at Vale do Lobo beach during1991: one based on field data and the other based on physical model tests. Two water levelswere considered and a sensitivity analysis was performed to evaluate the differences betweenthe two formulations and the impact of some of the parameters on the end results. The floodlevels were also estimated.

This paper presents an experimental and numerical study of 2-D wave diffraction by a fixed horizontal-axis submergedcircular cylinder. The objective of the paper is to report and validate results from the fully nonlinear 2-D boundary-elementmethod code CANAL; to assess the capability of the physical wave flume and the measurement methodology to study thistype of problem; and to contribute to the understanding of the wave diffraction by a circular cylinder. Two test cases arepresented, both in deep-water conditions. The cylinder axis submergence is 1^5r (r is the cylinder radius) for the first case,and 3r for the second, the latter corresponding to the experimental study presented in the paper. A discretization convergenceevaluation is also presented for the second case. The good agreement between the numerical and the experimental resultsproves that this numerical model is able to accurately simulate this type of problems. No reflection was noticed on the incidentwave side of the cylinder. It was found that nonlinear resonant interactions occur between the fundamental frequency andthe harmonics on the transmitted wave side of the cylinder. Free waves were observed on this part of the wave flume.

Nesta comunicação, descrevem-se os mais recentes desenvolvimentos no LNEC em termos de instalações experimentais, técnicas de construção, equipamentos e metodologias utilizadas nos ensaios em modelo físico, com a apresentação de casos de estudos realizados para as zonas portuárias de Peniche Ponta Delgada, Leixões

Within the BlueSafePort project, an early warning system (EWS) for moored ships in the port of Sines as developed. In order to improve the reliability and accuracy of the system, two neural networks (NN) were trained,using wave buoys measured datasets. Numerical models results for the wave propagation are djusted and forecasts are improved.The trained neural networks were able to produce more accurate stimates for the significant wave height and mean wave period, at the buoy location, deployed in front of the ines Port. The use of the new NN led to an overall reduction of the root mean square error of around 80% compared with SWAN numerical model simulations, thus reducing potential errors in subsequential alculations and alert levels issued by the system for the moored ships.

Within the LIFE Garachico project, an HIDRALERTA EWS is being extended to include methodologies for creating an effective flexible adaptation strategic framework for coastal area of Praia da Vitória. This strategic framework is based on the definition of acceptable risk levels and specific interventions at the local level, allowing to increase the resilience of coastal urban areas against extreme coastal events (both present and future) consequences of climate change.

Esta comunicação descreve os ensaios de pressões efetuados para a caraterização das pressões máximas exercidas nos pilares de secção circular da ponte que liga o porto de Dakhla à costa bem como dos perfis verticais de pressões associadas.

Nesta comunicação são descritos os desenvolvimentos iniciais dos sub-casos do projeto C2IMPRESS referentes aos portos de Aveiro e da Figueira da Foz. A fase inicial envolveu a estimativa preliminar do galgamento induzido pelas ondas em alguns perfis das estruturas dos dois portos, assim como um primeiro inquérito sobre risco aos utilizadores desses dois portos.

Esta comunicação descreve os estudos em modelo reduzido tridimensional de estabilidade hidráulica e de galgamentos para o prolongamento do molhe leste correspondente à 3ª Fase de Expansão do Terminal XXI, do Porto de Sines.

Neste trabalho apresenta-se uma metodologia para determinar as condições de segurança e acessibilidade de navios ao longo do trajeto de acesso ao porto, ilustrando-se a sua aplicação nos casos de estudo dos portos de Sines. este trabalho insere-se no âmbito do desenvolvimento de novos sistemas de previsão e alerta para a navegação nos portos de Sines e Aveiro.

O litoral português apresenta um valor natural, económico e cultural único e de importância amplamente reconhecida. O dinamismo costeiro pode levar à ocorrência de galgamentos de estruturas de proteção costeira em situações de temporal, que podem causar inúmeros danos, podendo mesmo resultar na perda de vidas humanas ou na destruição de estruturas próximas da linha de costa. Deste modo, a gestão das zonas costeiras próximas de aglomerados populacionais deve considerar a implementação de medidas sustentáveis que mitiguem os fenómenos que afetam o litoral de forma mais gravosa, de que são exemplo a implementação de estruturas de proteção costeira.

No âmbito do projeto BlueSafePort está a ser desenvolvido um sistema para prever e alertar situações de emergência causadas pela agitação marítima, relacionadas com a navegação em portos, bem como constrangimentos operacionais. A paralisação dos terminais portuários leva a grandes perdas económicas e afeta em grande parte a competitividade geral do porto. Assim, o objetivo deste sistema é reduzir a vulnerabilidade do porto aumentando a sua capacidade de planeamento e resposta e

Physical modelling is one of the tools to help characterize wave runup and overtopping in maritime structures. Usually, the determination of wave runup is made by using resistive wave gauges along the breakwater slope while the evaluation of overtopping volumes (individual or total) is made by weighing the water overtopped with a scale that is collected in a reservoir installed on this scale.Nowadays, non-intrusive methodologies for the assessment of those parameters are being used, due to their simplicity and low cost. Video cameras, constitute a good alternative to old methods; however, their performance depends essentially on the post-processing methodologies used.The present paper presents the application of the Timestack methodology done so far, in the evaluation of: wave runup in 2D and 3D physical tests. The video-derived statistical parameters of wave runup (Rumax, Rumin, Rumed e Ru2%) are compared with the corresponded ones obtained with resistive wave gauges. The total water volume and the average overtopping flow rate from video data is compared with the one collected by a reservoir. Those cases will illustrate the advantages and drawbacks associated with Timestack methodology.

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