Publications

The Ria de Aveiro, a mesotidal lagoon located on the Northwestern Portuguese coast, is characterized by large areas of intertidal flats and a web of narrow channels. The lagoon has a large area of mostly abandoned salt pans, whose progressive degradation is caused by the lack of maintenance and by the strong currents which erode their protective walls. The shallow water model ELCIRC was implemented and calibrated for the Ria de Aveiro in order to study its hydrodynamics, with special emphasis on the effect of the destruction of the salt pans protective walls. The calibration was performed by adjusting the bottom friction coefficient, through the comparison between measured and computed time series of surface water elevations at several stations within thelagoon. Harmonic analyses of these data were performed in order to evaluate the models accuracy. An assessment of root mean square errors and skill showed that a good calibration was achieved.Once calibrated, ELCIRC was used to characterize the hydrodynamics of the entire lagoon and the channels around the salt pans under different scenarios (present athymetry and a projection of the bathymetry resultingfrom the walls destruction). An extreme destruction of the salt pan walls would result in a significant increase of the inundation area in Ria de Aveiro, as well as in changes of the global and local hydrodynamic regimes. In summary, this study reveals how the increase of the flooded area in estuarine lagoons can affect tidalpropagation, including the increase of tidal currents, tidal prism and tidal asymmetry. The long-term implications of the salt pans inundation are discussed based on the results.

Due to the increasing sand demand for construction and beach nourishment, offshore extraction is being considered as an alternative source. Long term morphological changes caused by such an extraction must be predicted because they can affect the sediments budget and potentially promote coastal erosion. Numerical models are powerful tools that can help in the evaluation of environmental impacts induced by this activity. They should, however, be used with caution, the validation of a particular model being an important task. The objective of this study is to describe the hydrodynamics in the area surrounding a sandpit through the use of numerical models, namely ELCIRC for the tidal flow and SWAN for the waves. The sandpit under study is located offshore Vale do Lobo, an important beach and golf resort located on the Southern Portuguese coast. A wave climate analysis was done in order to assess mean wave conditions and to choose extreme events to propagate with SWAN. Four wave conditions were identified as representative. The numerical results obtained show that the tidal flow and the orbital wave velocities within the pit and neighbouring areas are modified by the presence of the pit. The excavation influences the tidal flow in an area of approximately 3000 * 3000 m2 around it. In this area the maximum velocity increase is of 2%, occurring in the nearby surroundings of the pit, and the maximum decrease is of 16%, in the pit deepest zone. The orbital velocities for the storm wave conditions show a decrease of 15% within the pit and its influence extends up to the 4 m contour, not reaching the shore.

The 2D horizontal morphodynamic modeling system MORSYS2D simulates bottom topography evolution in coastal zones. Sand fluxes are computed with different practical formulas, either for current dominated (e.g, Ackers & White, van Rijn) or combined wave-current flows (e.g., Soulsby van Rijn). Although sensitivity analyses of bottom topography changes in terms of the transport formulas used have already been done, a comparison of the sediment fluxes computed with the different formulations, considering the same flow conditions and using the parameterizations considered in the model (e.g, bottom roughness, bottom stress) is lacking. With that purpose, we have conceptualized a suitable range of wave and current conditions above a sand bed composed of uniform sediment that is characteristic of the conditions encountered in estuaries, tidal inlets and continental shelves, and applied the several flux formulations. To assess the differences obtained, the average value and the standard deviation were computed for each flow condition. This exercise enabled us to identify, for different parameter ranges, the transport formulations which are consistent with one another and those that deviate the most from the mean. This information is useful in practical applications by defining conditions for optimal formula performance.

Morphodynamic modeling systems increasingly appear as valuable tools to understand the dynamics of coastal systems, including mixed-energy tidal inlets, driven by the combined action of tides and waves. This study aims at: 1) applying and validating a morphodynamic modeling system to a rapidly evolving tidal inlet and 2) verifying both qualitatively and quantitavely the ability of the morphodynamic modeling system to simulate the development of the inlet's main features. The MORSYS2D morphodynamic modeling system is applied to the Ancão Inlet (South Portugal), just after its relocation in August 1997. The relocation and the first stages of the inlet development were monitored in the scope of the EU project INDIA, which provided a large database of tidal, wave and bathymetric data. The first step of the present study consists on a fine calibration of the morphodynamic modeling system using the INDIA data. The model/data comparison shows that the modeling system was able to reproduce well wave heights, elevations and current velocities, with root mean square errors of 0.25 m, 0.065 m and 0.12 m/s, respectively. The morphological evolution of Ancão Inlet is then simulated over the period August 1997-January 1999, starting at the inlet relocation. Model predictions were compared to the bathymetric surveys available over the simulated period. Model/data comparison demonstrates that the model is able to reproduce the development of the main features of the Ancão Inlet. From a quantitative viewpoint, the model was also able to reproduce the development of the inlet's cross-section, characterized by faster growths during fair weather conditions. Finally, this study also provides additional insight regarding on the dynamics of mixed-energy (tide, waves) tidal inlets.

Sandy beaches can be found in fetch-limited environments that are protected from ocean generated waves, as estuaries, lagoons, and backbarriers, and where fetch characteristics allow local wind-generated waves to develop and maintain a beach. The morphodynamics of these low-energy beaches present a peculiar behaviour and general open-ocean models are inappropriate for their study. The main objective of this work is the development of a fetch-limited beach classification scheme based on the relative importance of wave, tidal and river flow forcing. This objective was pursue through the study of the evolutionary pattern of two fetch-limited beaches located in two different Portuguese systems, Alfeite (in Tagus Estuary) and Ancão backbarrier (in RiaFormosa barrier system). Results show that both beaches display a typical fetch-limited profile, with a narrow reflective beach face and a wide dissipative tidal flat, and that profile shape exhibits small changes without a seasonal pattern typical of ocean beaches. At Alfeite, profile changes are restricted to the beach face and result from low-frequency extreme events (strong wind generated waves, Hs>0.5m). At Ancão, although major morphologic changes are also related to the beach face, which is typical behaviour of wave dominated beaches,sediment transport, mainly driven by tidal currents, extends through the entire profile. A tentative fetch-limited beach classification, based on the relative importance of wave and tide effects, is presented.

Profile characteristics of low energy sandy beaches include narrow foreshores that are often steep, with reflective swash zones. Seaward of the foreshore a low gradient terrace is generally present, acting as a wave energy filter. Low magnitude changes are usually associated to this type of environments, either cross- or longshore. To examine the short- (between months) and medium-term (from months to years) morphological changes at Ancão backbarrier (Ria Formosa), data from monthly cross-shore surveys was used. The degree of morphological mobility was given by the volumetric variability within specific morphologic units (foreshore, tidal flat and sand spit) and through the analysis of three cross-shore sections. Results show low medium-term variability, not seasonally distributed, and without a direct connection to changes on average wind intensity. The three morphologies are not interdependent and do not show a clear relation on sediment exchanges between them. Low intensity short-term changes are however present, which seem to be related with net sediment adjustments. Although the morphology and beach slope changes do not indicate a linear pattern of sediment exchange across the profile, cross-shore transport seems to dominate the small scale short-term process, mainly at the foreshore, being related with changes in wind direction (erosion associated to S-SE directions). At the medium- to long-term scale of evolution (years to decades) beach morphodynamics is probably more related with other forcing factors (e.g. inlet position, currents intensity and direction) rather than wind conditions.

This work describes the application of hydrodynamic (ELCIRC) and transport (VELA and VELApart) models to the Ria Formosa lagoon (Portugal) to study the impact of the relocation of the Ancão Inlet. Located in the south of Portugal, this lagoon is a mesotidal barrier island system that communicates with the sea through 6 inlets. The Old Ancão Inlet was artificially closed and the New Ancão Inlet was relocated into a westward position. This work investigates the hydrodynamic patterns and the potential pathways of tracers in Ria Formosa in two distinct configurations: before and after the Ancão Inlet relocation. The hydrodynamic model was successfully calibrated and validated against elevation, velocity and inlet discharges data, accurately reproducing the tidal propagation. The inlet relocation increases the magnitude of tidal currents, residual velocities and the tidal prism across the bar, suggesting a better stability. The tracers transport simulations suggest enhanced water exchanges through the Ancão Inlet and smaller residence times in the western part of Ria Formosa with the present configuration. Overall, it is concluded that the Ancão Inlet relocation had a positive contribution towards increasing the water renewal of the western part of the lagoon, thus decreasing its vulnerability to pollution

Estuaries are unique systems with an unquestionable economical, ecological and recreational value which has motivated a large amount of research work. Out of the research focus emerge the estuarine margins and more particularly the estuarine beaches, especially in what concerns their macro-scale evolution. This work aims tounderstand the origin and evolution of Tagus estuary beaches. To meet this objective, a detailed geomorphological characterization of peri-estuarine margins, complemented with geological and sedimentological data, was performed. This study was coupled with the analysis of meteorological andhydrodynamic processes that control the estuarine sedimentary dynamics; particular attention was given to local waves through the application of a wind-wave generated model calibrated with field data.The origin of Tagus estuarine beaches is related with the Holocene transgression, which promoted the drowning of the present-day upper estuarine depression and generated a wide and shallow fetch-limited basin. From the transgressive maximum onwards the estuary initiated an infilling process dominated by fluvial fine-graineddeposition within the estuarine basin, whereas sand input was retained in a bay-head delta. At the same time,fetch-limited waves promoted the erosion of estuarine margins, initiating beach development, related to the growth of sand spits anchored in Plio-Pleistocene reliefs. This process depended on wave energy and also on mean wave power direction, which controlled the spit growing pattern. At present, beach evolution reflects thedisturbance of sediment budget due to the increase of human intervention in estuarine margins.

A one-dimensional vertical (1-DV) numerical model that predicts mean sediment transport rates has been recently updated with state-of-the-art methods and tested against available field observations. Model calibration has been done through a comparison analysis between formulations regarding three main parameters: bed roughness, reference concentration and sediment vertical mixing coefficient. The objective was to find the optimal combination of formulae based on the agreement of the model results with field data. Though important discrepancies were found between different predictors, with differences reaching, in some cases, two orders of magnitude, the best combinations of predictors allowed a very good agreement between model predictions and observations.

Ecological models can be useful tools for understanding the dynamics of the estuarine and coastal ecosystems. However, the application of these models in real systems requires the specification of many empirical input parameters, which are in general difficult to quantify for a specific site. This study presents a sensitivity analysis on the input parameters of the model ECO-SELFE applied to the Ria de Aveiro. ECO-SELFE is a threedimensional, unstructured grid, fully-coupled hydrodynamic-ecological model. The sensitivity analysis is based on a previous analysis using the zero-dimensional ecological model, where one parameter was varied with the others being held constant. Results show that phytoplankton growth rate and zooplankton excretion and mortality rates are the parameters that influence the results the most. The degree of influence of these parameters depends on the local concentrations of zooplankton and phytoplankton. These two ecological variables are also most affected by the variations in the input parameters.

The estuary of the Tagus river is one of the largest estuaries in Europe covering an area of about 320 km2. It is located in the Portuguese west coast, in the metropolitan area of Lisbon, and due to its social and economic context and environmental characteristics it is the Portuguese most relevant estuary. The estuary comprises along its margins 11 municipalities with about 1.6million inhabitants (Tavares et al., 2015). It hosts the Port of Lisbon, the national leader in the movement of vessels (in number and in GT), and the Tagus Estuary Natural Reserve considered one of the most important sanctuaries for birds in Europe.

Estuaries are highly variable systems and the most productive ecosystems in the world.Phytoplankton is a major contributor to the high productivity, rapidly responding to changes inthe environment

This work evaluates the morphological evolution of the coastal frontage south of Figueira da Foz (west coast of Portugal) after the extension of the north jetty based on the analysis of topo-bathymetric surveys located in twelve equidistant transepts in the study site. The results show that the study site has large inter-annual morphological variations and the complex morphological behaviour shows an erosive tendency of the beach face downdrift of the structures.

Climate change and the predicted increase of human activities in estuaries may increase the hazards inthese systems. Water observatories can support both the daily and the long-term management of estuarineecosystems. Although in the past water observatories were mostly based on observations, these tools haveevolved to account for forecasts, scenarios analysis and indicators

Coastal systems are among the most productive ecosystems in the world, providing multipleresources and guaranteeing the resilience of the coastal communities. Climate change (e.g.,sea level rise) represents a major threat to the world

Climate change, such as sea level rise, represents a major threat to the world

This study aims to investigate the changes in the infragravity wave energy under partialshort-wave breaking conditions induced by a longshore bar. Field observations of near-bottompressure records on a cross-shore array were analysed for such purpose. The bispectrum wasemployed to detect the phase-coupling between short and infragravity wave frequencies. This allowedto separate the infragravity wave energy in bound and free energy components.The bar crest induced a decrease on the short-wave energy due to depth-induced breaking. At thesame location, a damping on the bound infragravity wave energy was observed. This dampingcoincides with a negative value of the short-wave radiation stress cross-shore gradient. This providesevidence that bound infragravity wave energy decreases with a reduction in the forcing.

Resumo: Os processos de evolução costeira em Cabo Verde, resultantes de fatores naturais e deatividades humanas, são ainda pouco conhecidos. Analisa-se neste trabalho a evolução morfológica dabaía do porto da Praia, na ilha de Santiago, com base em levantamentos hidrográficos de 1882 a 2016,fotografia aérea, imagens de satélite e cartografia histórica. Recorre-se também à modelaçãomatemática de processos hidrodinâmicos e morfodinâmicos, considerando a interação ondascorrentes,para interpretar as condições locais. Os elementos analisados sugerem uma tendência deacumulação sedimentar, com uma taxa média de avanço da praia, a longo prazo, da ordem de 1 m/ano.Estima-se que o caudal sólido transportado episodicamente pelas ribeiras afluentes seja uma fontesedimentar importante. Embora a recente expansão do porto tenha diminuído a influência da ação dasondas, as condições mais favoráveis à remobilização e à circulação sedimentar no interior da baíapermanecem associadas aos períodos de agitação marítima mais energética

Evolution of Nazaré beach after the construction of the fishing harbour

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The hydrodynamics and sediment dynamics of a low energy estuarine beach was analysed. The beach is subjected to local wind waves generated in an area of restricted fetch, wake waves generated by catamarans and a semi diurnal meso-tidal regime. Only storm events of short duration modify the beach profile, which, once the normal hydrodynamic conditions are restored, naturally recovers its initial shape. The beach is characterised by having a steep upper slope until mean sea level, followed, seaward, by a low gradient terrace, and a bimodal sediment distribution. To investigate the hydro sedimentologic beach behaviour, wind, topo-hydrographic and sedimentologic data were used as input and validation of process based numerical modelling. Wave generation and transformation in an area of restricted fetch, nearshore circulation, sediment transport and morphological evolution were simulated for average annual conditions and storm conditions. The statistical analysis of a six-year wind data series allowed to derive the average wind regime, based on which, the average annual wave regime and the average annual longshore sediment budget, 14.5x103 m3year-1, were calculated. The contribution of the individual components of the representative wave regime, discretised by directional sector and height class of incidence, was evaluated as well as the spatial distribution of the longshore sediment transport in the active part of the beach profile. The characteristics of the wave groups generated by the passage of catamarans at different speeds were estimated and their action on the beach morphology was simulated. Although when the catamarans travel at 20 knots speed the average annual wake wave energy dissipated at the beach is 2.5 times higher than the average annual wind wave energy, the erosion effect on the beach profile is still not relevant for the present traffic. In opposition, short duration storm events generate the formation of an erosion scarp at the upper part of the beach face. The numerical modelling of this phenomenon allowed to acknowledge on the protective effect that the low gradient terrace has on the beach face.

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A two-dimensional model of wind-driven circulation in a closed basin was developed using a finite-volume technique for generalized curvilinear grids and applying some of the recent developments in hydrodynamic modeling. The terms in the Navier¬Stokes equations were treated separately according to the fractional step method and the propagation step, including the continuity equation and the pressure and stress terms in the momentum equations, was solved using a conjugate gradient method.The model was then applied to a number of test cases to examine the feasibility of the approach used by comparing with results obtained with the two-dimensional version of the three-dimensional model CH3D. These included a square basin with constant slope and with a V-shaped bottom and Lake Okeechobee, in South Florida. To evaluate the long-term numerical stability of the model, a ten-day model simu¬lation with varying wind was also run for Lake Okeechobee.

An examination of the causes for generation and dynamics of turbidity maxima in estuaries reveals the critical role of sediment tidal pumping phenomenon and, to a lesser extent, of the well-known effect of residual gravitational circulation due to salt water penetration. Both phenomena depend on the vertical sediment concentration profile and, consequently, on the magnitude of the vertical mass transport fluxes. Where high concentration suspensions occur regularly, the erosion/deposition fluxes can be drastically modified by sediment stratification, consequently influencing sus¬pended sediment response to currents and wave action. This influence is inherent in flow-sediment hysteresis, which therefore reflects the role of vertical mass transport in the estuarine and coastal suspended fine sediment regime.A vertical transport numerical model was used to investigate the influence of several key parameters describing sediment settling, bed properties and stabilized diffusion on the concentration profile. The model was also applied to simulate the influence of the same parameters on the time-lagged sediment response to flow variations, reflected in the characteristics of flow-sediment hysteresis loops.Field data obtained in Hangzhou Bay (People´s Republic of China), a high concentration environment, showed typical features of flow-sediment hysteresis and confirmed the importance of the vertical mass fluxes in contributing to sediment transport in the bay. A qualitative simulation provided by the numerical model, using settling parameters corresponding to local sediment, while confirming the importance of the hysteresis phenomenon, also revealed the critical need to use algorithms describing adequately stabilized diffusion and bed fluxes.Additional evidence of hysteresis was obtained through analysis of microscale variables, such as the Reynolds stresses and the variances of the velocity components resulting from combined effects of wave action and turbulence. Spectral analysis of the measured random variations did not support the commonly accepted hypothesis of similarity between the responses to turbulent flow of sediment concentration and temperature. The normalized turbulent intensities for all the measured veloc¬ity components showed their highest values during the period of lowest sediment concentration; this result is consistent with the hypothesis of turbulent intensity damping by suspended sediment.

A contribution to increased use and development of the method of artificial nourishment of beaches is the main objective of this thesis. It also aims at being a guide for the design of the reconsctrution or outright creation of beaches.In the first chapter, the subject is introduced and the objectives of the thesis are outlined. The second chapter cover´s some general considerations on littoral dynamics, beach equilibrium and sediment budget.Since the theoretical foundations of the artificial nourishment of beaches still leave much to be desired, a description of this method and its principles are presented in the third chapter. Important technical and economic aspects are included, such as: sampling, analysis and characterization of native and borrow material; selection Of nourishment sources; extraction and transport of borrow sand; and characteristics of the theoretical final beach profile. Such problems as the integration of ecological aspects, and cost-benefit analysis are also treated.in the fourth chapter, the Portuguese experience in this domain is described. The experience of such countries as France and the U.S., where this method has frequently been used is also mentioned. In this way a considerable amount of hitherto scattered information is presented in a unified way.The fifth chapter, treats briefly the problem of coastal model similitude, both as a support for the experimental work: which was carried out and to help engineers in the design of a coastal physical model or in merely assessing the possibilities of such a model.In the sixth chapter, an experimental study is described of the influence of both the grain size of borrow material and the nourishment method on the redistribution of sediments after the nourishment. The obtained results are compared with existing theoretical methods and some prototype results.Finally, in the last chapter the main conclusions and recomendations of the thesis are presented.

We provide a systematic analysis of the consistency, stability, convergence and accuracy of the numerical solution of the transport equation by a general Eulerian-Lagrangian Method (ELM). The method involvesthree basic steps: the backwards tracking of characteristic lines following the flow, the interpolation of concentrations at the feet of these lines, and the solution of dispersion taking such concentrations as initial conditions. The first two steps constitute the Backwards Method of Characteristics (BMC); the third step involves a time-discretization along the characteristic lines, and a spatial discretization of the dispersion operator, both based on conventional techniques (e.g.. Euler or Crank¬Nicholson for time; finite-elements or finite-differences for space).The choice of the spatial interpolator is shown to impact the consistency, stability and convergence, as well as the accuracy of the BMC. Most interpolators ensure consistency, but only a few ensure stability, hence convergence; stability criteria are derived from a newly developed generalized Fourier analysis, which can account for non-linearities introduced by quadratic grids. The comparison of formally derived propagation and truncation errors, complemented by numerical experimentation, provides a reference for the choice of the interpolator, given a specific transport problem characterized by prevailing concentration gradients.The BMC potentiates the use of large time-steps, well above Courant number of order one. In the limiting case of pure advection, optimal accuracy would be obtained for a At close to the total time of interest; the presence of dispersion constrains, however, the size of At, especially in the case of non-uniform flows. The comparison of the truncation errors for the three basic steps of ELM provides a reference to select At. as a function of Ax, of the spatial interpolators and time-discretization schemes, and of the gradients of flow and concentrations.

Apresenta-se um estudo sistemático, baseado simultaneamente em análises formais e em experimentação numérica, da precisão e estabilidade da solução da equação de transporte por um método Euleriana-Lagrangeana (MEL). 0 método decompõe a equação de transporte em equações separadas de advecção e de difusão, resolvendo a primeira pelo método das características regressivas no tempo (MCR), e a segundo por um método de elementos finitos, do tipo Galerkin.Mostra-se que as interpolações no espaço requeridas pelo MCR são um factor limitativo da precisão global do MEL, e comparam-se diversas técnicas alternativas de interpolação, algumas das quais originais. A combinação de esquemas compactos e não-compactos de interpolação, baseados em polinómios de Lagrange, é apontada como uma potencial solução óptima.Demonstra-se que, para uma adequada escolha do esquema de interpolação, o MCR é consistente, estável e convergente e tem boas características de precisão. Escolhas inadequadas do esquema de interpolação podem, no entanto, causar instabilidade e inconsistência.Estabelece-se a dependência da precisão do MCR no passo de cálculo, mostrando-se que essa precisão aumenta, em geral (para um tempo total fixo), quando se reduz o número de passos de cálculo, isto é, quando se aumenta o passo de cálculo (uma propriedade simultaneamente pouco habitual e muito conveniente). No entanto, na gama de valores muito pequenos do Número de Courant, a precisão é praticamente independente do passo de cálculo, o que evita que o método se torne divergente.Analisa-se brevemente o efeito de malhas irregulares e pluridimensionais sobre a aplicabilidade e precisão do MCR. Apesar de sensível à irregularidade da malha, o método mantém boas características de precisão desde que as distorções geométricas não sejam excessivas. Malhas pluri-dimensionais, quando simultaneamente irregulares, levantam problemas específicos de aplicabilidade de esquemas não-compactos de interpolação; esses problemas poderão se resolvidos através da utilização conjugada de esquemas compactos e não-compactos, para um mesmo problema. Investigação adicional a ainda requerida nestas áreas.Mostra-se ainda que a presença de mecanismos físicos de difusão beneficia tanta a precisão da solução da equação de advecção como a precisão global do MEL.Finalmente, demonstra-se a eficácia da aplicação do MEL (numa forma particular, restricta a esquemas de interpolação compactos) à simulação do transporte de poluentes em águas costeiras. 0 método permite, em particular, realizar simulações longas (várias marés) a custos moderados, mesma para malhas irregulares com elevado número de nós, e, também, evitar a necessidade do uso de difusividades artificiais como garante de estabilidade; em geral, e nestes dois aspectos em particular, o método revela-se superior a métodos Eulerianos, mais convencionais (por exemplo, métodos de elementos finitos, do tipo Galrkin ou Petrov-Galerkin, aplicados à equação de transporte indivisa).

No âmbito de um projecto de investigação intitulado caracterizarão de Formações Estuárias e do Meio Marítimo Litoral Por Técnicas de Detecção Remota , insere-se o estu¬do da avaliação de suspensões na água do mar com recurso à aplicação de técnicas de detecção remota como meio de caracterização de parâmetros de qualidade de água. 0 trabalho que se apresenta foi desenvolvido com os seguintes objectivos:1- Desenvolvimento de metodologias de análise e quantificação de suspensões na água do mar a partir de dados de satélite;2- Implementação sob forma de programas para computador de modelos de quantificação de suspensões orgânicas e inorgânicas na água do mar, a aplicar aos dados do radiómetro CZCS do satélite NIMBUS-7;3- Aplicação e verificação do modelo ao litoral português.Corn vista à consecussão destes objectivos, começa-se por apresentar uma extensa análise das formas de abordagem do problema, enumerando-se os diversos métodos actualmente seguidos, nomeadamente o Empírico, o Teórico e, neste, os métodos microscópico e macroscópico.Com base nesta análise, propõe-se um modelo numérico de quantificção das suspensões a partir dos dados do radiómetro CZCS do satélite NIMBUS-7, o qual, embora empírico na sua formulação como a maioria dos actualmente existentes, se apoia no comportamento radiomótrico da água do mar e dos seus constituintes típicos, cujas características se apresentam também.A implementação prática do modelo exige a filtragem da componente atmosférica presente nos dados rediométricos. Com este objectivo, apresenta-se um modelo baseado na metodo¬logia correntemente utilizada. Consiste na consideração da difusão simples, causada pelos constituintes básicos da atmosfera (moléculas gasosas, aerosóis e ozono) na gama de comprimentos de onda considerada (440, 520, 550 e 670nm). Esta metodologia conduz, porém, a um sistema de equações indeterminado e que é resolvido pela consideração de uma equação ´exterior´ ao processo de transferência radiativa que tem lugar na atmasfera. Para este efeito, utilizou-se a equação de Smith e Wilson por ser a mais divulgada, ressalvando-se, contudo, a necessidade de verificação da sua efectiva aplicação às águas do litoral português, o oqe não foi possível concretizar dada a inexistência de dados.

A numerical method for the solution of the two-dimensional, unsteady, transport equation is formulated, and its accuracy is tested.The method uses a Eulerian-Lagrangian approach, in which the transport equation is divided into a diffusion equation (solved by a finite element method) and a convection equation (solved by the method of characteristics). This approach leads to results that are free of spurious oscillations and excessive numerical damping, even in the case where advection strongly dominates diffusion. For pure diffusion problems, optimal accuracy is approached as the time-step, At, goes to zero; conversely, for pure-convection problems, accuracy improves with increasing At; for convection-diffusion problems the At leading to optimal accuracy depends on the characteristics of the spatial discretization and on the relative importance of convection and diffusion.The method is cost-effective in modeling pollutant transport in coastal waters, as demonstrated by an illustrative application to a case study (sludge dumping in Massachusetts Bay). Numerical diffusion is eliminated or greatly reduced, raising the need for realistic estimation of dispersion coefficients. Costs (based on CPU time) should not exceed those of conventional Eulerian methods and, in some cases (e.g., problems involving predictions over several tidal cycles), considerable savings may even be achieved.

0 principal objectivo desta tese é mostrar a habilidade do métodos dos elementos finitos e do método dos elementos de fronteira na modelação das ondas gravíticas de superfície.Na análise linear, as equações reduzidas do movimento ondulatório são resolvidas pelo método dos elementos finitos, levando em linha de conta a reflexão parcial, a radiação e o atrito de fundo. A modelação da radiação é feita com elementos infinitos ou com elementos de radiação, sendo estes encarados como um caso particular dos elementos de reflexão. 0 atrito de fundo é introduzido após a discretização e é levado a efeito através de um coeficiente empírico que se pode relacionar com o coeficiente de Chezy.Quer o modelo determinístico quer o modelo estocástico, obtido do primeiro com base na noção do estimador natural, permitem a realização de ensaios de ressonância ou de agitação. Nos ensaios de ressonância de uma bacia portuária tem particular interesse o conhecimento do espectro de resposta ao ruído bran¬co de banda limitada.A título de exemplo de aplicação mostram-se alguns aspectos do estudo das condições de ressonância do porto de Leixões.Logo que não sejam válidas as hipóteses simplificativas que permitem uma abordagem linear das ondas gravíticas de superfície, são resolvidas as equações não lineares do movimento ondulatório com superfície livre, pelo método dos elementos de fronteira. As suas peculiaridades permitem, sem qualquer dúvida, considerar o método dos elementos de fronteira como o mais vocacionado para este tipo de análise.Os programas de cálculo automático para o estudo da análise não linear estão ainda em fase de teste, pelo que não se apresentam exemplos de aplicação.

Este trabalho é dirigido principalmente para o uso da simulação numérica dos escoamentos em estuários como uma ferramenta pa¬ra estudos de engenharia. Fazem-se algumas considerações gerais sobre a definição e classificação de estuários seguidas por uma descrição sumária da hidrodinâmica dos estuários. Descrevem-se e comparam-se as várias técnicas utilizadas na solução de problemas de hidradinâmica de stuários.Faz-se a dedução formal de um modelo matemático do escoamento em estuários homogéneos e integram-se verticalmente as suas e¬quações, obtendo-se as conhecidas equações do escoamento em águas pouco profundas ("shallow water equations"). Estas equações são discretizadas utilizando os métodos dos elementos finitos e das diferenças finitas, respectivamente no espaço e no tempo.Faz-se a descrição de um sistema de cálculo para determinar a solução do modelo matemático discretizado e tecem-se várias considerações acerca do seu desenvolvimento e uso.Finalmente apresentam-se os resultados de alguns testes utilizados para verificar o funcionamento do sistema de cálculo.

This report presents the methodology and results of a study of the sediment dynamics and potential medium-term coastline evolution induced by hybrid-type coastal protection solutions for the Langue de Barbarie and the city of Saint-Louis, Senegal. The analysed solutions considered four designs of an artificial island, or a peninsula/spit connected to the mainland. The study includes gathering of study site data, preparation of model inputs, set-up and calibration of the shoreline evolution model ShorelineS, simulations of the potential coastal evolution for the proposed interventions, and critical and comparative analysis. The model succeeded in reproducing the main coastline modifications observed during the calibration period (2015 to 2019). It was found that any of the proposed hybrid solutions are likely to trigger substantial instabilities in the delicate sediment dynamics of Langue de Barbarie, eventually breaching this spit not far from the city of Saint-Louis. The analysis of alternative soft solutions led to similar conclusions.

O Programa de Monitorização das Dragagens da Zona Superior da Lagoa de Óbidos, promovidas pelaAgência Portuguesa do Ambiente, destina-se a acompanhar a evolução das condições hidrodinâmicas e da morfologia da lagoa. Apresentam-se neste relatório os resultados relativos à fase de pós-obra. Na zona inferior da lagoa, entre abril de 2022 e outubro de 2023, o canal da embocadura manteve uma posição relativamente estável no terço central do cordão litoral, sem situações de fecho da embocadura. Na zona superior da lagoa, a comparação dos levantamentos hidrográficos de pós-dragagem (março de 2022) e de monitorização após 20 meses (novembro de 2023) indicam que a zona intervencionada de canais (braço da Barrosa, foz do rio Real e braço do Bom Sucesso) e bacias (braço da Barrosa e foz do rio Real) apresentou uma taxa de assoreamento moderada (0,23 m ano-1). Assim, estima-se que os efeitos da intervenção de dragagem na redução da acumulação sedimentar na zona superior da lagoa sejam relativamente duradouros.

The final technical report of the project Mosaic.pt

Apresenta-se neste relatório os principais resultados dos ensaios em modelo físico reduzido referentes ao “Estudo de caracterização e viabilidade de um quebra-mar destacado multifuncional em frente à Praia da Vagueira”. Os ensaios, realizados à escala 1:65 com fundo móvel, permitiram analisar o efeito do quebra-mar destacado (QMD) na dinâmica sedimentar próxima e na geração de ondas para o surf. No que se refere à dinâmica sedimentar, verificou-se a reprodução de fenómenos de evolução morfológica no modelo físico, com predominância de movimentos sedimentares transversais na ausência do QMD e quase inexistência de transporte longilitoral. A implantação de um QMD paralelo à praia induziu a formação de células de circulação na zona abrigada que conduziram à formação de um saliente de pequenas dimensões, centrado com o eixo transversal do QMD. A implantação de um QMD 45º oblíquo à costa provocou a formação de dois salientes, de dimensões semelhantes aos da configuração anterior. No que se refere à geração de ondas para surf comparam-se os resultados obtidos sem QMD, com QMD paralelo e com QMD oblíquo à costa. Analisam-se os índices de agitação, localização, comprimento e tipo de rebentação para cada situação. Para todas as condições de agitação ensaiadas, a rebentação na situação atual (sem QMD) ocorre a sotamar da posição de implantação prevista para o QMD, próxima da linha de costa. O QMD provoca alteração das condições de rebentação, levando a que esta ocorra na zona próxima ou sobre o QMD. Da observação da posição e comprimento da linha de rebentação, assim como do tipo e forma de rebentação pode concluir-se que, dos casos ensaiados, no caso sem QMD e no caso com QMD oblíquo se obtiveram condições de rebentação adequadas à prática de surf. Apresenta-se a calibração realizada com o modelo numérico COULWAVE para o caso do QMD oblíquo, para uma condição de agitação regular. O modelo numérico permite calcular alguns parâmetros importantes para a verificação das condições de rebentação e da sua adequabilidade para a prática do surf, tais como o comprimento da linha de rebentação, a direção da onda no ponto de rebentação, o ângulo de rebentação e o número de Iribarren. Com base nos resultados obtidos é possível concluir que o QMD oblíquo gera uma onda de boa qualidade para o surf, já que se obtém uma rebentação mergulhante e um ângulo de rebentação adequado para surfistas standard/profissionais. Realizaram-se ensaios de galgamento e, para as condições de agitação ensaiadas, não se verificou galgamento da estrutura de defesa longitudinal aderente nem no caso dos ensaios sem QMD nem com QMD, quer paralelo à costa quer oblíquo.

Apresenta-se neste documento um texto integrador e conclusivo dos trabalhos executados no

O presente estudo é constituído por duas componentes. Na primeira analisa-se, com recurso a modelação numérica, o efeito da morfologia da praia da Vagueira na resposta de um quebra-mar destacado submerso implementado na frente marítima. Para isso, utilizam-se dois levantamentos topo-batimétricos recentes, de verão marítimo, que evidenciam grandes diferenças de elevação do fundo. Concluiu-se que a implementação do quebra-mar favorece a geração de elevados gradientes de fundo, incluindo a geração de novos canais, devidos às correntes divergentes, cuja mobilidade constrange a formação de um saliente estável que permita um aumento permanente da largura de praia. Na segunda componente do estudo, desenvolvida para apoiar o estudo em modelo físico, testou-se em modelo numérico o efeito do quebra-mar destacado submerso nas correntes e morfologia adjacentes, em condições hidro-morfológicas representativas. Concluiu-se que os padrões de erosão-acumulação gerados pelo quebra-mar (canais de erosão divergentes, enraizados nos extremos do quebra-mar, que geram a fuga de sedimentos locais e crescimento de um saliente não simétrico relativamente ao eixo transversal do quebra-mar) são mais regulares do que os previstos em condições de topo-batimetria real, pelo facto da batimetria inicial ser mais uniforme e, por isso, permitir um efeito mais destacado (menos difuso) dos mecanismos de resposta do fundo ao forçamento hidrodinâmico.

Apresenta-se neste relatório o estabelecimento do modelo físico reduzido e as condições de ensaio referentes ao

No âmbito do contrato de prestação de serviços para o

Procede-se à comparação de levantamentos topo-hidrográficos a escalas espaciais e temporais alargadas (desde 1980-1982) com o objetivo de apoiar a interpretação da evolução morfológica do sistema Bugio-Caparica e, em particular, contribuir para: (a) a identificação do destino das areias utilizadas na alimentação das praias da Costa da Caparica; (b) a avaliação da importância dos fluxos sedimentares entre as praias da Caparica e o banco do Bugio; e (c) a apreciação dos efeitos das intervenções estruturais e não-estruturais. Identifica-se uma área de acumulação sedimentar parcialmente no exterior da célula de monitorização, com cotas da ordem de -4 a -2 m ZH, no bordo meridional do banco do Bugio, que poderá estar associada quer às alimentações artificiais realizadas na Caparica, quer a alterações morfológicas ocorridas na envolvente da Cova do Vapor.

The present report describes a fieldwork campaign that took place within the scope of the project MOSAIC.pt. The campaign was performed in March 2020 at Cova-Gala beach. Cova-Gala beach is located south of the entrance to Figueira da Foz harbour, along central Portugal western coast. The campaign aimed to acquire hydrodynamic and topographic data on the subaerial beach cells between the groynes in front of Cova ur anization

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