Artigos de Revista
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Effects of climate change and anthropogenic pressures in the water quality of a coastal lagoon (Ria Formosa, Portugal).
Resumo: Understanding how climatic and anthropogenic drivers will influence coastal lagoons is fundamental to guarantee their preservation and sustainability. The Ria Formosa (coastal lagoon, South coast of Portugal) is a very important ecosystem that supports diverse economic activities in the region. The 3D coupled hydrodynamic-biogeochemical model SCHISM was validated and used to assess the influence of climate change and anthropogenic pressures on the water quality of the Ria Formosa. Five scenarios were simulated: reference scenario (S0), mean sea level rise (SLR) of 0.5 m (S1), increase of the air temperature of 1.68 °C (S2), increase of the outflow from the wastewater treatment plants (WWTP) by 50% (S3) and a combined scenario (S4). Results suggest that SLR of 0.5 m promotes an increase of 0.5
Ano: 2021
Número Páginas:
17p.
Autor(es): Rodrigues, M.; Rosa, A.; Cravo, A.; Jacob, J.; Fortunato, A. B.
Revista: Science of the Total Environment
Editor: Elsevier
Volume:
780, 146311.
Keywords: Nutrients; Temperature; Sea level rise; Numerical modelling; SCHISM
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Flood and drought risk assessment for agricultural areas (Tagus Estuary, Portugal)
Estuaries are coastal systems particularly vulnerableto climate change. Within these systems, agricultureis one of the most potentially affected sectors. This paperproposes a risk assessment approach for helping thedecision-making process at a local level, addressing two risksthat affect agricultural areas located in estuarine margins:the unavailability of freshwater for irrigation resulting fromthe upstream propagation of estuarine brackish water duringdroughts and land inundation by high water levels associatedwith high tides and storm surges. For each risk,quantitative consequence descriptors are proposed to supportrisk level determination and evaluation through a continuousconsequence
Ano: 2021
Número Páginas:
2503-2521pp.
Autor(es): Freire, P.; Rodrigues, M.; Fortunato, A. B.; FREITAS, A.
Revista: Natural Hazards and Earth System Sciences
Editor: EGU - European Geosciences Union
Volume:
Volume 21.
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Sediment dynamics and morphological evolution in the Tagus Estuary inlet
The morphological evolution of the Tagus estuary inlet in the last century is analyzed in order to characterize its dynamics, explain its behavior and anticipate its future evolution. First, the evolution is characterized through a literature review, complemented by new data analyses. This review synthesizes the present understanding of the inlet
Ano: 2021
Número Páginas:
106590.
Autor(es): Fortunato, A. B.; Freire, P.; Mengual , B.; Bertin, X.; Pinto, C.; Martins, K.; Guérin, T.; Azevedo, A.
Revista: Marine Geology
Editor: Elsevier
Volume:
Vol. 440 (não tem número).
Keywords: SCHISM; data analysis; process-based model; morphodynamics
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The prediction of floods in Venice: methods, models and uncertainty
This paper reviews the state-of-the-art in storm surge forecasting and its particular application in the northernAdriatic Sea. The city of Venice relies crucially on a good flood forecasting system in order to protect the extensive culturalheritage, their population, and their economic activities. Storm surge forecasting systems are in place to warn the populationof imminent flood threats. In the future, it will be of paramount importance to increase the reliability of these forecastingsystems, especially with the new MOSE mobile barriers that will be completed by 2021, and will depend on accurate storm35 surge forecasting to control their operation. In this paper, the physics behind the flooding of Venice is discussed, and the stateof the art of European storm surge forecasting is reviewed. The challenges that lie ahead for Venice and its forecasting systemsare analyzed, especially in view of uncertainty. Some extreme events that happened in the past and were particularly difficultto forecast are also described
Ano: 2021
Número Páginas:
2679-2704pp.
Autor(es): Umgiesser, G.; Bajo, M.; Ferrarin, C.; Cucco, A.; Lionello, P.; Zanchettin, D.; Papa, A.; Tosoni, A.; Ferla, M.; Coraci, E.; Morucci, S.; Crosato, F.; Bonometto, A.; Valentini, A.; Orlic, M.; Haigh, I
Revista: Natural Hazards and Earth System Sciences
Editor: Copernicus Publications
Volume:
Volume 21.
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Coastal flooding process: comparing different coastal typologies response to extreme hydrodynamic conditions
To upgrade the response capability to coastal flood events, hazard predictions need to be improved throughintegrating the effect of the coastal morphological variability in the nearshore-foreshore-backshorehydromorphological processes induced by waves-tide-wind-atmospheric pressure. In order to evaluate the short-termmorphological response of different coastal typologies to potential flood conditions (spring high tide level, stormsurge, high wave height), field data acquired in 2019 in three sites in the West coast of Portugal with past floodingepisodes are presented and discussed. The preliminary results point out that under the same forcing conditions theshort-term response of the cross-shore beach profile that controls the flooding levels is dependent on the beachtypology, namely: the nature of the lower and upper limits of the beach face, profile gradient and its alongshorecontext. This knowledge can be used to develop robust and validated flood prediction tools contributing to improvemitigation and adaptation management strategies.
Ano: 2020
Número Páginas:
797-802pp.
Autor(es): Freire, P.; Oliveira , F.; Oliveira, J. N.
Revista: Journal of Coastal Research
Editor: Coastal Education and Research Foundation (CERF)
Volume:
SI 95.
Keywords: coastal management.; short-term response; beach morphological evolution; Flood
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Enhancing estuarine flood risk management: comparative analysis of three estuarine systems
Estuarine flood risk management is a challenge for coastal managers since this type of system is usuallycomplex due to the presence of multiple trigger combinations that can induce flood events affecting differenttypes of human occupation. Furthermore, legal directives demanded countries to have flood risk assessmenttools therefore enhancing knowledge on estuarine triggers and flood damage typologies is useful for coastalmanagers. In this study three different flood events are compared and contrasted, each one having occurred in adifferent estuarine system chosen based on a set of criteria (temporal proximity, occurrence of human damagesand at least three flood triggers identified in each database). The diversity of data sources that characterizeseach database was examined, for the three events, which are described in terms of triggers and damages. Thecomparison highlighted that the local context was important in the estuarine flood combination of triggers anddisclosed two categories (one category comprising infrastructure economic and human damages; and anothercategory involving circulation interruption and functions disruption) of flood damages common between thestudied systems corresponding to different levels of relevance for management. The enhanced knowledgeacquired allowed the construction of a conceptual framework for damages that can contribute to more adequateestuarine flood risk frameworks.
Ano: 2020
Número Páginas:
935-939pp.
Autor(es): Rilo, Ana; Tavares, A.; Freire, P.; Zêzere, J. L.; Haigh, I.
Revista: Journal of Coastal Research
Editor: Coastal Education and Research Foundation (CERF)
Volume:
SI 95.
Keywords: flood risk management; triggers; damages; Estuaries
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Flooding occurrences in the portuguese continental coastal zone: a database for the period 1980-2018
The Portuguese continental coastal zone is characterized by its lithological, morphological, biological and landscapediversity. With a coastline extension of approximately 987 km, this zone has great importance in the nationalcontext. The increasing anthropic occupation of the coastal zone in the last seven decades led to a conflict with thenatural dynamics of these areas. The project MOSAIC.pt emerges from the need of a comprehensive flood riskmanagement framework for the Portuguese coastal zones, including estuaries. One of the innovative challenges ofthis project is to identify the coastal critical typologies affected by flooding, based in historical data. Hence, ahistorical database of coastal flood occurrences was created for the period 1980-2018. Historical data was collectedin national and regional newspapers. The database includes relevant information such as flood triggering factors andimpacts. For the period 1980-2018, a total of 398 occurrences of coastal overtopping and flooding were identified.The analysis shows that the vast majority of occurrences are located on the Portuguese western coast. In terms ofimpacts, the typologies associated with material, natural, environmental and lastly human impacts stand out. Resultsprovide relevant temporal and spatial information about coastal historical flood occurrences and contribute for thedesign of a risk framework.
Ano: 2020
Número Páginas:
7p.
Autor(es): Barros, J.; Freire, P.; Perdiz, L.; Tavares, A.
Revista: e-proceedings of the 30th European Safety and Reliability Conference and 15th Probabilistic Safety Assessment and Management Conference (ESREL2020 PSAM15), 01
Editor: Research Publishing Services
Keywords: Occurrences; Impacts; Database; Flood; Coastal zone
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Hybrid monitoring-modelling analysis on the storm induced sediment dynamics of a structure-controlled beach
The main objective of this study is to investigate the effect of sediment flushing on the morphology ofartificially embayed beaches using field data and numerical modelling. The sandy stretch of Cova-Gala in theWest Coast of Portugal, characterized by a high-energy wave climate, is critical regarding erosion-floodingrisks. The site was monitored from August 2018 to February 2019, including the wave climate, the sea leveland the beach topo-bathymetric elevation via sonar-single beam, GNSS-RTK and drone surveys. During thisperiod several erosive events caused the retreat and lowering of the upper beach profile. The XBeach modelwas applied to simulate the morphological evolution during the monitored period using synoptic wave and sealevel data as the hydrodynamic forcing. The results of the data-model analysis reveal that i) the alongshoreextension of the sedimentological cells and the cross-shore structures length have a relevant influence on thelee-side erosion patterns, which affect the overall surrounding morphology, ii) the model overestimates thescouring of the seawall toe, particularly with the 1D mode; and iii) the beach backshore typology, dune andseawall, has a great influence on beach dynamic processes.
Ano: 2020
Número Páginas:
605-609pp.
Autor(es): Oliveira, J. N.; Oliveira , F.; Freire, P.; Teixeira, A.
Revista: Journal of Coastal Research
Editor: Coastal Education and Research Foundation (CERF)
Volume:
SI 95.
Keywords: coastal monitoring, XBeach, erosion.; numerical modelling; Beach morphodynamics
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Importance of infragravity waves in a wave-dominated inlet under storm conditions
The processes associated with infragravity waves (IGW) and their role on the hydro-sedimentary dynamics of a wave-dominated inlet are investigated using field observations collected at the Albufeira Lagoon (Portugal) during storm Leslie in October 2018. During the storm, significant IGW heights reached up to 1.0 m in the surf zone and 0.4 m inside the lagoon. IGW frequencies were blocked by ebb currents at the flood-delta and this effect was stronger for higher IGW frequencies. Therefore, low-frequency IGW were able to propagate further into the inner lagoon. The application of a 1D energy balance equation suggests that depth-induced breaking and bottom friction contributed equally to dissipate IGW energy at the flood-delta and that this dissipation was stronger during the flood than during the ebb.Large horizontal velocities under IGW crests increased the instantaneous suspended sediment transport rate by up to two orders of magnitude during flood at the flood-delta. The net suspended sediment transport rate and its variability, associated with the wave motion, was positive (landward) during flood and negligible during ebb. These positive values were associated with large wave-induced orbital velocities, suggesting that waves were more effective than tidal currents in inducing suspended sediment transport. The oscillatory suspended sediment transport rate was directed towards the lagoon and dominated by IGW frequencies. The observed sediment accretion of the northern channel occurred during the most energetic IGW. The measurements presented in this study and their analyses demonstrate how IGW play a major role in the sedimentary dynamics of wave-dominated inlets during storm conditions.
Ano: 2020
Número Páginas:
1-15pp.
Autor(es): Mendes, D.; Fortunato, A. B.; Bertin, X.; Martins, K.; Lavaud, L.; Silva, A. N.; Pires Silva, A.; Coulombier, T.; Pinto, J.
Revista: Continental Shelf Research
Editor: Elsevier
Volume:
192.
Keywords: Waves; Infragravity
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Near-future changes in storm surges along the Atlantic Iberian coast
Decadal predictions bridge the gap between the short-term weather/seasonal forecasts and the long-termclimate projections. They target the reproduction of large-scale weather patterns at multi-year time scalesby both recognizing the long memory of some components of the climate system, and explicitly includingthe evolution of green-house gas concentrations as an external forcing. This study illustrates the use ofdecadal predictions to determine the near-future storminess at regional scales. Specifically, the evolutionof extreme storm surges and sea levels along the Atlantic Iberian coast is assessed. Present (1980-2016)and near-future (2021-2024) storm surges are simulated over the north-east Atlantic, forced byatmospheric reanalyses (ERA-Interim) and decadal predictions (MiKlip), respectively. Results are thenstatistically analyzed to investigate the short-term effects of climate change and climate variability onextreme surges and extreme sea levels. Surges will increase mostly in early winter, while tides are largestin late winter. As a result, the impact of the increase in storminess on the extreme sea levels and coastalflooding will be modest, and the growth in extreme sea levels will be dominated by the contribution ofmean sea level rise.
Ano: 2019
Número Páginas:
1003-1020pp.
Autor(es): Fortunato, A. B.; Meredith, E.; Rodrigues, M.; Freire, P.; Feldmann, H.
Revista: Natural Hazards
Editor: Springer
Volume:
Volume 98, nº. 3.
Keywords: Decadal prediction; Numerical modeling; Storm surge; Spain; Portugal; SCHISM
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Comunicações
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Erosões localizadas na vizilhança do esporão EV2 da Cova do Vapor
Analisa-se a evolução batimétrica naenvolvente do esporão EV2,na Cova do Vapor, ao longo dos últimos 50 anos,com base em levantamentoshidrográficos.Aocorrênciade erosões localizadas está associadaao prolongamento inicial do esporão, em 1969-1971. A profundidade máxima(-14,1mZH, 200m a WNW da cabeça)foi atingida em 2006, na sequência de uma intervençãodereparaçãoda estrutura.Verifica-se que,em certos períodos (e.g.1990-1995), aposição dos pontos de profundidade máxima sofrea influênciada evolução do sector nascenteda Golada, confundindo-secom essa mesma evolução.
Ano: 2019
Número Páginas:
9-10pp.
Autor(es): Portela, L. I.
Revista: 5ª Conferência sobre Morfodinâmica Estuarina e Costeira - Livro de Resumos
Editor: Faculdade de Ciências da Universidade de Lisboa
Keywords: Transporte sedimentar; Morfodinâmica; Estruturas marítimas; Embocadura
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Evolução morfológica sedimentar da baía da cidade da Praia, Cabo Verde
A baía da cidade da Praia, na ilha de Santiago, Cabo Verde, acolhe um dos principais portos comerciais e de cruzeiros de Cabo Verde, tendo também uma relação importante, do ponto de vista ambiental e paisagístico, com a frente ribeirinha da cidade. Procedeu-se a uma análise da evolução morfológica do sistema, com recurso a levantamentos hidrográficos (de 1882 a 2016) e imagens aéreas (de 1968 a 2018), para determinar tendências evolutivas históricas. Realizou-se também a aplicação de um sistema de modelos numéricos, envolvendo a simulação da hidrodinâmica, do transporte sedimentar e da evolução do fundo, para identificar os processos litorais dominantes. Calculou-se uma tendência média de avanço da praia Grande ou da Gamboa de 0,6 a 1,0 m/ano, correspondendo este último valor à média dos últimos 50 anos. As condições de maior hidrodinamismo no interior da baía estão associadas aos períodos de agitação marítima de maior altura. As intervenções mais recentes, nomeadamente na zona portuária, tendem a diminuir esse hidrodinamismo.
Ano: 2019
Número Páginas:
1-4pp.
Autor(es): Portela, L. I.
Editor: Associação Portuguesa de Recursos Hidricos
Keywords: Zonas costeiras; Dinâmica sedimentar;; Hidrodinâmica
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Field observations of infragravity waves during storm LESLIE in a wave-dominated inlet
This study investigates the roleof infragravity waves (IGW) on the hydrodynamics of a wave-dominated inlet (Albufeira lagoon, Portugal) during storm Leslie (October 2018) through the analysis of field observations. Measured significant IGW heights reached up to 0.9 m in the surf zone, at adjacent ocean beaches, and 0.4 m at the flood-delta. At the flood-delta, IGW were more energetic than wind-generated short-waves by up to a factor of 2. These large IGW are expected to contribute significantly to sediment transport during storm conditions.
Ano: 2019
Número Páginas:
15-16pp.
Autor(es): Mendes, D.; Fortunato, A. B.; Bertin, X.; Martins, K.; Lavaud, L.; Silva, A. N.; Pires Silva, A.; Pinto, J. P.
Revista: 5ª Conferência sobre Morfodinâmica Estuarina e Costeira - Livro de Resumos
Editor: Faculdade de Ciências da Universidade de Lisboa
Keywords: Storm conditions; Hydrodynamics;; Albufeira lagoon
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Morphodynamic modeling of the tagus estuary inlet
Existing knowledge on the evolution of the Tagus estuary inlet morphology derives mostlyfrom analyses of bathymetric surveys and aerial images. The limitations of this approachprevent a detailed understanding of the processes responsible for this evolution, as well as theprediction of the future evolution. A 2DH morhodynamic model was therefore applied to shednew light into the sediment dynamics of this tidal inlet. Description of the method
Ano: 2019
Número Páginas:
25-26pp.
Autor(es): Fortunato, A. B.
Revista: 5ª Conferência sobre Morfodinâmica Estuarina e Costeira - Livro de Resumos
Editor: Faculdade de Ciências da Universidade de Lisboa
Keywords: Tidal inlet; Numerical modeling; Morphodynamics
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Morphodynamics of the tagus estuary mouth: contributions from a citizen-science project
Due to their exposure to various forcings such as tides and waves, estuary mouths constitute dynamic coastal environments where sediment transport can result in abrupt and significant morphological changes. They concentrate relevant socio-economic and ecological values, which will become even more challenging in the climate change context. Despite their importance worldwide, the dynamics of these environments remains partly understood only and fosters many studies from the scientific community. This work is part of a citizen-science project (named Nouveaux Commanditaires Sciences) which aims at studying the hydro-sedimentary dynamics of the Tagus estuary mouth (bordered by a metropolitan area of 2 million inhabitants), especially during storms, by combining in-situ field observations, remote sensing data and numerical modelling. This research program has been set up following the request for a better understanding of the coastal erosion and marine flooding during storms expressed by severely affected inhabitants from an informal neighbourhood, Segundo Torrão (Southern margin of the inlet). In addition, local populations provide support for instrumental deployments and data acquisitions. In return, new knowledge derived from scientific studies will be used to improve coastal management over these threatened areas. In this presentation, we will present the main actions that are being carried out in the scope of this project.
Ano: 2019
Número Páginas:
29-30pp.
Autor(es): Mengual , B.; Jaouen, A.; Bertin, X.; Martins, K.; Fortunato, A. B.; Freire, P.; Taborda, R.; Riboli-Sasco, L.; Duarte, J.; Arquizan, T.
Revista: 5ª Conferência sobre Morfodinâmica Estuarina e Costeira - Livro de Resumos
Editor: Faculdade de Ciências da Universidade de Lisboa
Keywords: Tagus estuary; In-situ measurements; Bathymetric data; Remote sensing; Morphodynamics,
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Multi-source flood risk analysis for safe coastal communities and sustainable development
To increase the response capability to coastal flooding events in an accelerating sea level rise context, the ability to predict floods has to improve and be integrated with other components of risk, such as vulnerability and exposure. The MOSAIC.pt project aims at developing an advanced flood risk management framework for coastal zones, integrating robust predictive tools and multi-source data with the different dimensions of the risk, to adequately contribute to emergency planning and response
Ano: 2019
Número Páginas:
71-72pp.
Autor(es): Freire, P.; Fortunato, A. B.; Tavares, A.; Oliveira, A.; Silva-Santos, P. M.
Revista: 5ª Conferência sobre Morfodinâmica Estuarina e Costeira - Livro de Resumos
Editor: Faculdade de Ciências da Universidade de Lisboa
Keywords: Afe communities; Territorial vulnerability; Real-time prediction and monitoring;; Risk assessment
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Numerical assessment of the saltwater propagation in the upper Tagus estuary during droughts
Estuarine uses and activities may be negatively affected by climatic variability andclimate change
Ano: 2019
Número Páginas:
1p.
Autor(es): Rodrigues, M.; Fortunato, A. B.; Freire, P.
Editor: ECCA 2019
Keywords: Saltwater; Tagus
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Observatórios costeiros: integração em tempo real de previsões de circulação e da qualidade da água em sistemas de classificação
Os observatórios costeiros podem apoiar a gestão diária e a longo prazo dos sistemascosteiros, permitindo antecipar eventos de contaminação, contribuir para a vigilânciacontínua destas zonas e implementar e adaptar planos de gestão. Ao integrarem previsões,análises de cenários e indicadores, para além de observações históricas e em tempo real, estasferramentas têm aumentado de complexidade ao longo dos anos.
Ano: 2019
Número Páginas:
2p.
Autor(es): Rodrigues, M.; Fortunato, A. B.; Rogeiro, J.; Santos, D.; Oliveira, A.; Martins, R.; Rosa, A.; Teixeira, J.; Jacob, J.; Cravo, A.; Azevedo, A.; Freire, P.
Editor: Instituto Superior Técnico
Keywords: Tempo real; Observatórios
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OPENCoastS: on-demand forecast tool for management
Coastal forecast systems have become reliable tools to support daily coastal management and strategic long-term planning. However, the availability of these systems for most coastal areas remains scarce, in particular for small estuaries and coastal bays, which limits the efficiency of management for these areas from both economic and environmental perspectives. Building a new forecast system or maintaining in operation an existing one requires considerable effort, from both financial and personnel points of view. Accurate forecasts require a team comprising experts in coastal processes and computer science and the availability of robust and large computational resources to maintain the predictions available on a daily basis. Herein, a new concept in forecast tools is presented, building the foundations for forecast systems to be built and made available for all coastal systems worldwide. Denoted OPENCoastS, this freely available web service builds forecasts systems for the coastal area selected by the user and maintains them in operation using the European Open Science Cloud infrastructure. Forecasts are based on the SCHISM community model
Ano: 2019
Número Páginas:
10p.
Autor(es): Rodrigues, M.; Rogeiro, J.; Bernardo, S.; Oliveira, A.; Fortunato, A. B.; Teixeira, J.; Lopes, P.; Azevedo, A.; Gomes, J.; David, M.; Pina, J.
Revista: Proceedings of the Fourteen International Medcoast Congresso on Coastal and Marine Sciences, Engineering, Management and Conservation
Editor: Mediterranean Coastal Foundation
Keywords: Forecast; OPENCoastS
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Salinity in the upper Tagus estuary
The influence of freshwater discharge and sea level rise in the salinity in the upper Tagusestuary is assessed using a numerical model. Results suggest that the river flow is the main driver of the salinity in the upper estuary and that salinity intrusion increases with the duration of the droughts. For the analyzed scenarios, salinity reaches concentrations that are inadequate for irrigation during some periods, which can harm the agricultural activities.
Ano: 2019
Número Páginas:
47-48pp.
Autor(es): Rodrigues, M.; Fortunato, A. B.; Freire, P.
Revista: 5ª Conferência sobre Morfodinâmica Estuarina e Costeira - Livro de Resumos
Editor: Faculdade de Ciências da Universidade de Lisboa
Keywords: SCHISM; Sea level rise; River flow;; Estuary
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Livros
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MEC2011 - Conferência sobre Morfodinâmica Estuarina e Costeira
N/A
Ano: 2011
Autor(es): Fortunato, A. B.; Freire, P.; Oliveira, A.
Editor: Laboratório Nacional de Engenharia Civil
Volume:
CD Room.
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Capítulos de Livros
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Evaluating the geomorphologic stability of an estuarine sandy beach. Integrated Coastal Zone Management
The hydrodynamics and sediment dynamics of a low energy estuarine beach was analysed. The beach is subjected to local wind waves generated in an area of restricted fetch, wake waves generated by catamarans and a semi diurnal meso-tidal regime. Only storm events of short duration modify the beach profile, which, once the normal hydrodynamic conditions are restored, naturally recovers its initial shape. The beach is characterised by having a steep upper slope until mean sea level, followed, seaward, by a low gradient terrace, and a bimodal sediment distribution. To investigate the hydro sedimentologic beach behaviour, wind, topo-hydrographic and sedimentologic data were used as input and validation of process based numerical modelling. Wave generation and transformation in an area of restricted fetch, nearshore circulation, sediment transport and morphological evolution were simulated for average annual conditions and storm conditions. The statistical analysis of a six-year wind data series allowed to derive the average wind regime, based on which, the average annual wave regime and the average annual longshore sediment budget, 14.5x103 m3year-1, were calculated. The contribution of the individual components of the representative wave regime, discretised by directional sector and height class of incidence, was evaluated as well as the spatial distribution of the longshore sediment transport in the active part of the beach profile. The characteristics of the wave groups generated by the passage of catamarans at different speeds were estimated and their action on the beach morphology was simulated. Although when the catamarans travel at 20 knots speed the average annual wake wave energy dissipated at the beach is 2.5 times higher than the average annual wind wave energy, the erosion effect on the beach profile is still not relevant for the present traffic. In opposition, short duration storm events generate the formation of an erosion scarp at the upper part of the beach face. The numerical modelling of this phenomenon allowed to acknowledge on the protective effect that the low gradient terrace has on the beach face.
Ano: 2009
Número Páginas:
pp. 35-49.
Autor(es): Oliveira, F. S. B. F.; Vargas, C.
Editor: Wiley-Blackwell Publishing
Volume:
Integrated Coastal Zone Management.
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Teses de Doutoramento
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Three-dimensional modelling of cohesive sediment transport in estuarine environments
N/A
Ano: 1995
Autor(es): Costa, R.
Editor: ******
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A Two-Dimensional Hydrodynamic Model Using a Finite-Volume Approach
A two-dimensional model of wind-driven circulation in a closed basin was developed using a finite-volume technique for generalized curvilinear grids and applying some of the recent developments in hydrodynamic modeling. The terms in the Navier¬Stokes equations were treated separately according to the fractional step method and the propagation step, including the continuity equation and the pressure and stress terms in the momentum equations, was solved using a conjugate gradient method.The model was then applied to a number of test cases to examine the feasibility of the approach used by comparing with results obtained with the two-dimensional version of the three-dimensional model CH3D. These included a square basin with constant slope and with a V-shaped bottom and Lake Okeechobee, in South Florida. To evaluate the long-term numerical stability of the model, a ten-day model simu¬lation with varying wind was also run for Lake Okeechobee.
Ano: 1989
Autor(es): Capitao, J.
Editor: ******
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Flow-Fine Sediment Hysteresis in Sediment-Stratified Coastal Waters
An examination of the causes for generation and dynamics of turbidity maxima in estuaries reveals the critical role of sediment tidal pumping phenomenon and, to a lesser extent, of the well-known effect of residual gravitational circulation due to salt water penetration. Both phenomena depend on the vertical sediment concentration profile and, consequently, on the magnitude of the vertical mass transport fluxes. Where high concentration suspensions occur regularly, the erosion/deposition fluxes can be drastically modified by sediment stratification, consequently influencing sus¬pended sediment response to currents and wave action. This influence is inherent in flow-sediment hysteresis, which therefore reflects the role of vertical mass transport in the estuarine and coastal suspended fine sediment regime.A vertical transport numerical model was used to investigate the influence of several key parameters describing sediment settling, bed properties and stabilized diffusion on the concentration profile. The model was also applied to simulate the influence of the same parameters on the time-lagged sediment response to flow variations, reflected in the characteristics of flow-sediment hysteresis loops.Field data obtained in Hangzhou Bay (People´s Republic of China), a high concentration environment, showed typical features of flow-sediment hysteresis and confirmed the importance of the vertical mass fluxes in contributing to sediment transport in the bay. A qualitative simulation provided by the numerical model, using settling parameters corresponding to local sediment, while confirming the importance of the hysteresis phenomenon, also revealed the critical need to use algorithms describing adequately stabilized diffusion and bed fluxes.Additional evidence of hysteresis was obtained through analysis of microscale variables, such as the Reynolds stresses and the variances of the velocity components resulting from combined effects of wave action and turbulence. Spectral analysis of the measured random variations did not support the commonly accepted hypothesis of similarity between the responses to turbulent flow of sediment concentration and temperature. The normalized turbulent intensities for all the measured veloc¬ity components showed their highest values during the period of lowest sediment concentration; this result is consistent with the hypothesis of turbulent intensity damping by suspended sediment.
Ano: 1989
Autor(es): Costa, R.
Editor: ******
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Alimentação artificial de praias
A contribution to increased use and development of the method of artificial nourishment of beaches is the main objective of this thesis. It also aims at being a guide for the design of the reconsctrution or outright creation of beaches.In the first chapter, the subject is introduced and the objectives of the thesis are outlined. The second chapter cover´s some general considerations on littoral dynamics, beach equilibrium and sediment budget.Since the theoretical foundations of the artificial nourishment of beaches still leave much to be desired, a description of this method and its principles are presented in the third chapter. Important technical and economic aspects are included, such as: sampling, analysis and characterization of native and borrow material; selection Of nourishment sources; extraction and transport of borrow sand; and characteristics of the theoretical final beach profile. Such problems as the integration of ecological aspects, and cost-benefit analysis are also treated.in the fourth chapter, the Portuguese experience in this domain is described. The experience of such countries as France and the U.S., where this method has frequently been used is also mentioned. In this way a considerable amount of hitherto scattered information is presented in a unified way.The fifth chapter, treats briefly the problem of coastal model similitude, both as a support for the experimental work: which was carried out and to help engineers in the design of a coastal physical model or in merely assessing the possibilities of such a model.In the sixth chapter, an experimental study is described of the influence of both the grain size of borrow material and the nourishment method on the redistribution of sediments after the nourishment. The obtained results are compared with existing theoretical methods and some prototype results.Finally, in the last chapter the main conclusions and recomendations of the thesis are presented.
Ano: 1987
Autor(es): Clímaco, M.
Editor: ******
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Solution of Advection-Dominated Transport by Eulerian-Lagrangian Methods Using Backwards Method of Characteristics
We provide a systematic analysis of the consistency, stability, convergence and accuracy of the numerical solution of the transport equation by a general Eulerian-Lagrangian Method (ELM). The method involvesthree basic steps: the backwards tracking of characteristic lines following the flow, the interpolation of concentrations at the feet of these lines, and the solution of dispersion taking such concentrations as initial conditions. The first two steps constitute the Backwards Method of Characteristics (BMC); the third step involves a time-discretization along the characteristic lines, and a spatial discretization of the dispersion operator, both based on conventional techniques (e.g.. Euler or Crank¬Nicholson for time; finite-elements or finite-differences for space).The choice of the spatial interpolator is shown to impact the consistency, stability and convergence, as well as the accuracy of the BMC. Most interpolators ensure consistency, but only a few ensure stability, hence convergence; stability criteria are derived from a newly developed generalized Fourier analysis, which can account for non-linearities introduced by quadratic grids. The comparison of formally derived propagation and truncation errors, complemented by numerical experimentation, provides a reference for the choice of the interpolator, given a specific transport problem characterized by prevailing concentration gradients.The BMC potentiates the use of large time-steps, well above Courant number of order one. In the limiting case of pure advection, optimal accuracy would be obtained for a At close to the total time of interest; the presence of dispersion constrains, however, the size of At, especially in the case of non-uniform flows. The comparison of the truncation errors for the three basic steps of ELM provides a reference to select At. as a function of Ax, of the spatial interpolators and time-discretization schemes, and of the gradients of flow and concentrations.
Ano: 1987
Autor(es): Melo Baptista, A.
Editor: ******
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Accurate Numerical Modeling of Advection-Dominated Transport of Passive Scalars. A Contribution
Apresenta-se um estudo sistemático, baseado simultaneamente em análises formais e em experimentação numérica, da precisão e estabilidade da solução da equação de transporte por um método Euleriana-Lagrangeana (MEL). 0 método decompõe a equação de transporte em equações separadas de advecção e de difusão, resolvendo a primeira pelo método das características regressivas no tempo (MCR), e a segundo por um método de elementos finitos, do tipo Galerkin.Mostra-se que as interpolações no espaço requeridas pelo MCR são um factor limitativo da precisão global do MEL, e comparam-se diversas técnicas alternativas de interpolação, algumas das quais originais. A combinação de esquemas compactos e não-compactos de interpolação, baseados em polinómios de Lagrange, é apontada como uma potencial solução óptima.Demonstra-se que, para uma adequada escolha do esquema de interpolação, o MCR é consistente, estável e convergente e tem boas características de precisão. Escolhas inadequadas do esquema de interpolação podem, no entanto, causar instabilidade e inconsistência.Estabelece-se a dependência da precisão do MCR no passo de cálculo, mostrando-se que essa precisão aumenta, em geral (para um tempo total fixo), quando se reduz o número de passos de cálculo, isto é, quando se aumenta o passo de cálculo (uma propriedade simultaneamente pouco habitual e muito conveniente). No entanto, na gama de valores muito pequenos do Número de Courant, a precisão é praticamente independente do passo de cálculo, o que evita que o método se torne divergente.Analisa-se brevemente o efeito de malhas irregulares e pluridimensionais sobre a aplicabilidade e precisão do MCR. Apesar de sensível à irregularidade da malha, o método mantém boas características de precisão desde que as distorções geométricas não sejam excessivas. Malhas pluri-dimensionais, quando simultaneamente irregulares, levantam problemas específicos de aplicabilidade de esquemas não-compactos de interpolação; esses problemas poderão se resolvidos através da utilização conjugada de esquemas compactos e não-compactos, para um mesmo problema. Investigação adicional a ainda requerida nestas áreas.Mostra-se ainda que a presença de mecanismos físicos de difusão beneficia tanta a precisão da solução da equação de advecção como a precisão global do MEL.Finalmente, demonstra-se a eficácia da aplicação do MEL (numa forma particular, restricta a esquemas de interpolação compactos) à simulação do transporte de poluentes em águas costeiras. 0 método permite, em particular, realizar simulações longas (várias marés) a custos moderados, mesma para malhas irregulares com elevado número de nós, e, também, evitar a necessidade do uso de difusividades artificiais como garante de estabilidade; em geral, e nestes dois aspectos em particular, o método revela-se superior a métodos Eulerianos, mais convencionais (por exemplo, métodos de elementos finitos, do tipo Galrkin ou Petrov-Galerkin, aplicados à equação de transporte indivisa).
Ano: 1986
Autor(es): Melo Baptista, A.
Editor: ******
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Sobre a Avaliação de Parâmetros de Qualidade de Água por Detecção Remota: Suspensões
No âmbito de um projecto de investigação intitulado caracterizarão de Formações Estuárias e do Meio Marítimo Litoral Por Técnicas de Detecção Remota , insere-se o estu¬do da avaliação de suspensões na água do mar com recurso à aplicação de técnicas de detecção remota como meio de caracterização de parâmetros de qualidade de água. 0 trabalho que se apresenta foi desenvolvido com os seguintes objectivos:1- Desenvolvimento de metodologias de análise e quantificação de suspensões na água do mar a partir de dados de satélite;2- Implementação sob forma de programas para computador de modelos de quantificação de suspensões orgânicas e inorgânicas na água do mar, a aplicar aos dados do radiómetro CZCS do satélite NIMBUS-7;3- Aplicação e verificação do modelo ao litoral português.Corn vista à consecussão destes objectivos, começa-se por apresentar uma extensa análise das formas de abordagem do problema, enumerando-se os diversos métodos actualmente seguidos, nomeadamente o Empírico, o Teórico e, neste, os métodos microscópico e macroscópico.Com base nesta análise, propõe-se um modelo numérico de quantificção das suspensões a partir dos dados do radiómetro CZCS do satélite NIMBUS-7, o qual, embora empírico na sua formulação como a maioria dos actualmente existentes, se apoia no comportamento radiomótrico da água do mar e dos seus constituintes típicos, cujas características se apresentam também.A implementação prática do modelo exige a filtragem da componente atmosférica presente nos dados rediométricos. Com este objectivo, apresenta-se um modelo baseado na metodo¬logia correntemente utilizada. Consiste na consideração da difusão simples, causada pelos constituintes básicos da atmosfera (moléculas gasosas, aerosóis e ozono) na gama de comprimentos de onda considerada (440, 520, 550 e 670nm). Esta metodologia conduz, porém, a um sistema de equações indeterminado e que é resolvido pela consideração de uma equação ´exterior´ ao processo de transferência radiativa que tem lugar na atmasfera. Para este efeito, utilizou-se a equação de Smith e Wilson por ser a mais divulgada, ressalvando-se, contudo, a necessidade de verificação da sua efectiva aplicação às águas do litoral português, o oqe não foi possível concretizar dada a inexistência de dados.
Ano: 1986
Autor(es): Oliveira, E. M.
Editor: ******
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Eulerian-Lagrangian Analysis of Pollutant Transport in Shallow Water
A numerical method for the solution of the two-dimensional, unsteady, transport equation is formulated, and its accuracy is tested.The method uses a Eulerian-Lagrangian approach, in which the transport equation is divided into a diffusion equation (solved by a finite element method) and a convection equation (solved by the method of characteristics). This approach leads to results that are free of spurious oscillations and excessive numerical damping, even in the case where advection strongly dominates diffusion. For pure diffusion problems, optimal accuracy is approached as the time-step, At, goes to zero; conversely, for pure-convection problems, accuracy improves with increasing At; for convection-diffusion problems the At leading to optimal accuracy depends on the characteristics of the spatial discretization and on the relative importance of convection and diffusion.The method is cost-effective in modeling pollutant transport in coastal waters, as demonstrated by an illustrative application to a case study (sludge dumping in Massachusetts Bay). Numerical diffusion is eliminated or greatly reduced, raising the need for realistic estimation of dispersion coefficients. Costs (based on CPU time) should not exceed those of conventional Eulerian methods and, in some cases (e.g., problems involving predictions over several tidal cycles), considerable savings may even be achieved.
Ano: 1984
Autor(es): Melo Baptista, A.
Editor: ******
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Sobre a Propagação de Ondas do Mar em Regiões Costeiras. Análise pelo Método dos Elementos Finitos
0 principal objectivo desta tese é mostrar a habilidade do métodos dos elementos finitos e do método dos elementos de fronteira na modelação das ondas gravíticas de superfície.Na análise linear, as equações reduzidas do movimento ondulatório são resolvidas pelo método dos elementos finitos, levando em linha de conta a reflexão parcial, a radiação e o atrito de fundo. A modelação da radiação é feita com elementos infinitos ou com elementos de radiação, sendo estes encarados como um caso particular dos elementos de reflexão. 0 atrito de fundo é introduzido após a discretização e é levado a efeito através de um coeficiente empírico que se pode relacionar com o coeficiente de Chezy.Quer o modelo determinístico quer o modelo estocástico, obtido do primeiro com base na noção do estimador natural, permitem a realização de ensaios de ressonância ou de agitação. Nos ensaios de ressonância de uma bacia portuária tem particular interesse o conhecimento do espectro de resposta ao ruído bran¬co de banda limitada.A título de exemplo de aplicação mostram-se alguns aspectos do estudo das condições de ressonância do porto de Leixões.Logo que não sejam válidas as hipóteses simplificativas que permitem uma abordagem linear das ondas gravíticas de superfície, são resolvidas as equações não lineares do movimento ondulatório com superfície livre, pelo método dos elementos de fronteira. As suas peculiaridades permitem, sem qualquer dúvida, considerar o método dos elementos de fronteira como o mais vocacionado para este tipo de análise.Os programas de cálculo automático para o estudo da análise não linear estão ainda em fase de teste, pelo que não se apresentam exemplos de aplicação.
Ano: 1982
Autor(es): Portela, A.
Editor: ******
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Numerical simulation of the tidal flow in homogeneous estuaries
Este trabalho é dirigido principalmente para o uso da simulação numérica dos escoamentos em estuários como uma ferramenta pa¬ra estudos de engenharia. Fazem-se algumas considerações gerais sobre a definição e classificação de estuários seguidas por uma descrição sumária da hidrodinâmica dos estuários. Descrevem-se e comparam-se as várias técnicas utilizadas na solução de problemas de hidradinâmica de stuários.Faz-se a dedução formal de um modelo matemático do escoamento em estuários homogéneos e integram-se verticalmente as suas e¬quações, obtendo-se as conhecidas equações do escoamento em águas pouco profundas ("shallow water equations"). Estas equações são discretizadas utilizando os métodos dos elementos finitos e das diferenças finitas, respectivamente no espaço e no tempo.Faz-se a descrição de um sistema de cálculo para determinar a solução do modelo matemático discretizado e tecem-se várias considerações acerca do seu desenvolvimento e uso.Finalmente apresentam-se os resultados de alguns testes utilizados para verificar o funcionamento do sistema de cálculo.
Ano: 1981
Autor(es): Figueira, P.
Editor: ******
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Relatórios
Info
Modelo matemático de evolução de linhas de costa. Aplicação a casos de alimentação artificial de praias.
N/A
Ano: 1995
Autor(es): Vicente, C.
Info
Programa provisional para estudos sobre infra-escavações.
N/A
Ano: 1995
Autor(es): Pires Elias, N.; Oliveira, E. M.
Info
Restabelecimento da ligação da lagoa de Óbidos ao mar. Dragagens de canais interiores
N/A
Ano: 1995
Autor(es): Vicente, C.; Clímaco, M.
Info
Scoping study on integrated environmental assessment of coastal zones.
N/A
Ano: 1995
Autor(es): Silva, M. C.; de Vrees, L.; Medina, J. M.
Info
Scoping study on integrated environmental assessment of coastal zones.
N/A
Ano: 1995
Autor(es): Silva, M. C.; de Vrees, L.; Medina, J. M.
Info
Standardisation of consolidation tests and sample characterisation.
N/A
Ano: 1995
Autor(es): Costa, R. G.; Freire, P.
Info
Aperfeiçoamento de metodologias de modelação aplicáveis a projectos de alimentação artificial de praias
N/A
Ano: 1994
Autor(es): Vicente, C.; Clímaco, M.
Info
Avaliação das reservas submarinas de areia na costa sul da Ilha da Madeira. Trecho: Cabo Girão - Madalena do Mar
N/A
Ano: 1994
Autor(es): Vicente, C.; Clímaco, M.
Info
Caracterização de aspectos fisiográficos de praias da costa portuguesa. Orla litoral da ria de Aveiro
N/A
Ano: 1994
Autor(es): Vicente, C.; Clímaco, M.
Info
Dique-Leste Taipa-Coaloane: Estudo Hidráulico e Sedimentológico em Modelo Físico.
N/A
Ano: 1994
Autor(es): Oliveira, E. M.
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Outros
Info
Estuarine and coastal morphodynamics
N/A
Ano: 2015
Autor(es): Fortunato, A. B.; Bertin, X.; Coco , G.; Concejo, A.; Dias, J. M.; Fernandes, E.; Larson, M.; Matias, A.; Oliveira, A.; Silva, P. A.; Dias, J. A.; Azeiteiro, U.; Costa , M.; Boski, T.
Keywords: coastal; Estuarine
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