Artigos de Revista
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A local scale approach to estuarine flood risk management
New challenges in flood risk management are raised by climate change and land-use development. These challenges are particularly complex in estuarine and coastal systems, where different hazard sources interact in a dynamic socioeconomic context. This paper presents an innovative approach to support flood risk management in estuaries. The approach, developed at a local-scale basis, is applied in the case study of the Tagus estuary (Portugal). The methodology is supported by the regional framing of the study area and integrates hazard, exposed elements, territorial vulnerability and risk assessments considering different climate scenarios. Through the involvement of the various risk management dimensions, the results allow the definition of a new decision-making supporting framework for emergency and land-use planning. At the emergency level, the results include a WebGIS interface providing an early-warning system for the locations with highest risk of flooding and the definition of emergency planning guidelines. A set of flood adaptation actions based on land-use and occupation measures are recommend to increase resilience in face of flooding and future sea-level rise. The institutional capacity-building is achieved through the availability of information and tools that can effectively support decision-making. Additionally, the outcomes contribute to better understand flood risk in estuaries and to strengthen its prevention, preparedness and response, priorities defined in the Sendai Framework for Disaster Risk Reduction 2015-2030.
Ano: 2016
Número Páginas:
1705
Autor(es): Freire, P.; Tavares, A.; Sá, L.; Oliveira, A.; Fortunato, A. B.; Santos, P.; Rilo, Ana; Gomes, J. L.; Rogeiro, J.; Pablo, R.; Pinto, P.
Revista: Natural Hazards
Editor: Natural Hazards
Volume:
Volume 84.
Keywords: Decision-making; Early warning; Extreme events; Territorial vulnerability; Estuaries; Flooding
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Assessment of three dredging plans for a wave-dominated inlet
Many small wave-dominated inlets are naturally unstable and require regular dredging. To mitigate the costs of these operations, the dredged channels should be designed to bring the inlet close to equilibrium and minimise flood dominance. However, it is often unclear how to optimise the configuration of the channels. This study focuses on a small lagoon on the western Portuguese coast that has been subject to frequent and diverse interventions. A process-based morphodynamic model is applied to compare the dredging plan that has been followed for the last 15 years with two new alternatives. These alternative dredging plans increase the tidal prism and reduce flood dominance, mainly due to the higher channel cross-section. Secondary transverse channels do not affect the morphodynamics significantly. For future dredging operations, it is suggested that the bottom depth of the main natural channel be dredged to chart datum and a secondary channel be added to the previous channel with the same bottom depth and half of the channel width.
Ano: 2016
Número Páginas:
64-75pp.
Autor(es): Mendes, D.; Fortunato, A. B.; Pires Silva, A.
Revista: Proceeding of the Institution of Civil Engineers - Maritime Engineering
Editor: ICE Publishing
Volume:
Volume 169, nº 2.
Keywords: Porosity (dimensionless; Dimensionless diffusion coefficient; Bed update; Wave peak period; Sand flux along the axis i; Still-water depth (m); Significant wave height; Sediment median grain diameter
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Deposition in flowing water of fine sediments under different salinity conditions
While the effect of salinity on the settling of fine sediments has been shown to be important in laboratory experiments, only a few studies have attempted to investigate depositional properties in flumes under different salinity conditions. This paper examines the effect of salinity on the deposition in flowing water of fine sediments collected in the Tagus estuary. The sampling site is located in the middle-upper reach of the estuary, where finegrained sediments are the dominant intertidal material and tidal currents the major transport mechanism. The experiments were conducted in an annular flume (mean diameter 3.7 m, height 0.4 m, width 0.3 m), with initial suspended sediment concentration of 0.7 g l-1 and five different salinities (0, 2.5, 5, 10 and 15). Two types of experiments were performed: tidal variation for 6.5 hours; and response to sudden reduction in flow velocity (from 0.5 m s-1 to 0.25 m s-1) for 8 hours. Samples were collected every 30 minutes to determine suspended sediment concentration by filtration and grain size by laser diffraction. The experiments with different salinities have yielded similar results, particularly regarding deposition for a velocity of 0.25 m s-1 (final C = 0.417-0.399 g l-1, D90 = 22-19
Ano: 2016
Número Páginas:
118-122pp..
Autor(es): Portela, L. I.; Custódio, A.; Teixeira, A.
Revista: Journal of Coastal Research
Editor: Coastal Education and Research Foundation, Inc
Volume:
Special Issue, No. 75.
Keywords: Annular flume; Deposition; Cohesive sediment
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Determination of extreme sea levels along the Iberian Atlantic Coast
Resumo:Extreme sea levels along the Atlantic Iberian coast are determined through the development and application of a numerical model for tides and surges, followed by a statistical analysis of the model results. A recent statistical method is assessed using 131 years of data from the Brest tide gauge, and the number of years of data required for an accurate statistical analysis is estimated. The statistical method is extended to consider tide
Ano: 2016
Número Páginas:
471-482pp.
Autor(es): Fortunato, A. B.; Li., K; Bertin, X.; Rodrigues, M.; Miguez, B.
Revista: Ocean Engineering
Editor: Elsevier
Volume:
111.
Keywords: SELFE; Storm surge; Tide; Statistical analysis; Numerical modeling
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Role of environmental forcings on fecal contamination behavior in a small, intermittent coastal stream: case study of the Aljezur coastal stream, Portugal
The role of environmental forcings on the fecal contamination dynamics in small coastal streams was investigated, using the Aljezur coastal stream (Portugal) as a test case. An integrated modeling approach, combining hydrological and coupled hydrodynamic-fecal indicator bacteria models, was applied to selected scenarios of relevant forcings, on the basis of previously calibrated and validated model applications. The forcings investigated included: tides, winds, waves, atmospheric pressure, bathymetry, river flow, and upstream fecal bacteria concentrations; this study targeted the characterization of the relative importance of these factors on the fecal contamination dynamics, to enhance our understanding of small coastal streams water quality dynamics. Results highlight distinct patterns for dry and wet periods. Fecal bacteria transport is mainly forced by tidal propagation, in dry periods; and by freshwater flows, during wet periods. The analysis reveals a complex hydraulic and water quality dynamic resulting from the interactions between the environmental forcings and strongly dependent on their relative strength. This analysis can be extrapolated for systems with a similar balance between the environmental factors.Read More: http://ascelibrary.org/doi/abs/10.1061/%28ASCE%29EE.1943-7870.0001075
Ano: 2016
Número Páginas:
8p.
Autor(es): Rodrigues, M.; Guerreiro, M.; David, L. M.; Oliveira, A.; Menaia, J.; Jacob, J.
Revista: Journal of Environmental Engineering
Editor: American Society of Civil Engineers
Volume:
Volume 142, Issue 5.
Keywords: Waves; Tidal currents; River flow; Bacteria; Rivers and streams; Coastal environment
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Water exchanges between a multi-inlet lagoon and the ocean: the role of forcing mechanisms
Understanding the influence of the main drivers controlling the circulation and the transport in coastal lagoons is a necessary step towards the description of the dynamics of their ecosystems. Thus, the influence of the main physical drivers on the water exchanges in a multi-inlet barrier island (western sector of the Ria Formosa coastal lagoon, Portugal) was investigated. Several scenarios of tide, wind, bathymetry and point source discharges were simulated using a three-dimensional circulation model and a particle-tracking model. The circulation is adequately reproduced by the hydrodynamic model, with root mean square errors of about 5
Ano: 2016
Número Páginas:
173-194pp.
Autor(es): Fabião, J.; Rodrigues, M.; Fortunato, A. B.; Jacob, J.; Cravo, A.
Revista: Ocean Dynamics
Editor: Springer
Volume:
Volume 66, Issue 2.
Keywords: Residence times; Bathymetry; Wind; Tide; Ria Formosa; Hydrodynamic and Lagrangian models
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Evolution of the hydrodynamics of the Tagus estuary (Portugal) in the 21st century
The ongoing rise in sea level affects tidal propagation and circulation in estuaries, and these changes can have far reachingconsequences on the sediment dynamics, water quality and extreme water levels. This study aims at anticipating the evolutionof the tidal dynamics in the Tagus (Portugal) in the 21st century, in particular due to sea level rise (SLR). The existence of aresonance mode of about 8 hours in this estuary, that selectively amplifies both semi-diurnal and quarter-diurnal tidal constituents,makes the response of the Tagus estuary to SLR unique. The study was conducted with a shallow water model, forced bypresent and future conditions, namely higher mean sea levels and an extrapolated bathymetry based on present sedimentationrates. Model results showed that SLR will significantly affect tidal asymmetry, in particular because the intertidal area candecrease by up to 40% by the end of the 21st century. As a result, the strong ebb-dominance of this estuary will decrease significantly.This evolution of tidal asymmetry will be counteracted by the effect of sedimentation of the salt-marsh areas. Also,SLR will enhance the resonance in the Tagus estuary. As a consequence, extreme water levels will be higher than the sum ofpresent levels with the SLR.
Ano: 2015
Número Páginas:
9-19pp.
Autor(es): Guerreiro, M.; Fortunato, A. B.; Freire, P.; Rilo, Ana; Taborda, R.; Freitas, M.Conceição; Andrade, C.; Silva,T.; Rodrigues, M.; Bertin, X.; Azevedo, A.
Revista: Revista Costeira de Gestão Integrada/Journal of Integrated Coastal Zone Management
Editor: APRH
Volume:
15/1.
Keywords: Modeling; Climate change; Resonance; Tidal asymmetry; Selfe
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Flooding hazard in the Tagus estuarine area: The challenge of scale in vulnerability assessments
This paper describes the methodology of the vulnerability assessment to flooding in anestuarine context and presents the final results for the Tagus River estuary, in the metropoli-tan region of Lisbon (Portugal). Performing a local study adapted to a specific type of hazardposed two initial methodological challenges: the selection of the unit of analysis and theidentification of the pertinent and available variables. Both challenges were addressedassuming that the area to be assessed should also include the units outside the inundatedarea, a buffer zone that would include areas indirectly affected. The application of thestatistical procedures established in the SoVI1 methodology indicate that certain widely usedvariables in vulnerability assessments on smaller scales are inadequate at the statistical blockscale and that specific variables must be defined and integrated to represent more broadly thedimensions of vulnerability related to social assistance, infrastructures and commutability.The extracted principal components identified the vulnerability drivers in the riversideand surrounding areas. These drivers identify the urban context, the family structure, andthe socio-economic condition expressed in terms of housing characteristics, education,mobility and commuting as the dimensions that most differentiate territorial and individuals
Ano: 2015
Número Páginas:
238-255pp.
Autor(es): Tavares, A.; Santos, P.; Freire, P.; Fortunato, A. B.; Rilo, Ana; Sá, L.
Revista: Environmental Science & Policy
Editor: Elsevier
Keywords: Local scale; Tagus river estuary; Storm surge; Flood; Vulnerability
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Processes controlling the seasonal cycle of wave-dominated inlets
This paper reviews the physical processes controlling wave-dominated inlets, based on several studies conducted at two inletslocated on the West Coast of Portugal. Once the observed hydrodynamics and morphological changes are reasonably simulated,numerical experiments are performed to explain the development of the inlet during fair weather conditions and itsshoaling and closure during winter storms. The former behaviour is explained by a tidal distortion that promotes ebbdominancewhile the latter is explained by the combination of several wave-related processes: (1) the
Ano: 2015
Número Páginas:
9-19pp.
Autor(es): Bertin, X.; Fortunato, A. B.; Dodet, G.
Revista: Revista Costeira de Gestão Integrada/Journal of Integrated Coastal Zone Management
Editor: APRH
Volume:
15/1.
Keywords: Infragravity; Wave blocking; Wave-induced processes; Albufeira lagoon; Óbidos lagoon; Tidal inlets
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A cross-scale numerical modeling system for management support of oil spill accidents
A flexible 2D/3D oil spill modeling system addressing the distinct nature of the surface and water columnfluids, major oil weathering and improved retention/reposition processes in coastal zones is presented.The system integrates hydrodynamic, transport and oil weathering modules, which can be combinedto offer different-complexity descriptions as required by applications across the river-to-ocean continuum.Features include accounting for different composition and reology in the surface and water columnmixtures, as well as spreading, evaporation, water-in-oil emulsification, shoreline retention, dispersionand dissolution. The use of unstructured grids provides flexibility and efficiency in handling spills in complexgeometries and across scales. The use of high-order Eulerian
Ano: 2014
Número Páginas:
132-147pp.
Autor(es): Azevedo, A.; Oliveira, A.; Fortunato, A. B.; Zhang, J.; Melo Baptista, A.
Revista: Marine Pollution Bulletin
Editor: Elsevier
Volume:
Volume 80, Issues 1
Keywords: Coastal pollution; Oil weathering processes; Unstructured grids; Eulerian
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Comunicações
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An Integrated Approach for Flood Risk Assessment in Estuaries
Abstract: Floods in estuaries are associated to different hazard sources, such as high tide levels, stormsurges and large fresh water discharges. In adjacent urban areas, the impact of estuarine high waterlevels is often amplified due to inadequate drainage conditions. As requested by the EuropeanDirective on Floods, flood risk assessment and management is becoming a priority as the effects ofclimate change and the growth of exposed population will increase inundation vulnerability. Anintegrated approach for flood risk assessment was developed, in which inundation for different climatescenarios and return periods is evaluated through estuarine and urban drainage numerical modelling.Exposed elements assessment, including population, infrastructures and environmental resources,supports territorial vulnerability mapping, and risk is analysed considering different spatial scales(regional and local) and territorial topologies (urban and interface). Results will contribute to improvethe understanding of estuarine inundation processes and to develop adequate flood risk managementguidelines.
Ano: 2014
Número Páginas:
313-316pp.
Autor(es): Freire, P.; Tavares, A.; Fortunato, A. B.; Oliveira, A.; Cardoso, M. A.; Pires, P.
Keywords: Alert and warning system; Management guidelines; Territorial vulnerability; Climate change; Numerical modelling
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Determination de la période de retour des niveaux extrêmes dans la côte Atlantique
N/A
Ano: 2014
Número Páginas:
2pp.
Autor(es): Fortunato, A. B.; Li., K; Rodrigues, M.; Miguez, B.
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Determination of Extreme Sea Levels along the Portuguese Coas t
Abstract:This work aims at determining extreme water levels associated with different return periodsthrough the development and application of a circulation model for tides and surges. The modelcovers a large portion of the NE Atlantic, and has a resolution of 250 m in the Portuguese shelf. Themodel was extensively validated for tides, surges and extreme sea levels. In the Portuguese shelf,RMS errors of tides are of the order of 5 cm, and the model under-estimates extreme water levels byabout 10 cm. Simulation of water levels between 1979 and2010, followed by a statistical analysis ofthe results, provided the relation between return periods and extreme levels along the Portuguesecoast. Results reveal the growth of extreme water levels from south to north.
Ano: 2014
Número Páginas:
151-154pp.
Autor(es): Fortunato, A. B.; Li., K; Bertin, X.; Rodrigues, M.
Editor: Actas das 3as Jornadas de Engenharia Hidrográfica - Instituto Hidrográfico
Keywords: Tides; Circulation model; Storm surges; Statistical analysis
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Dinâmica de trocas entre a Ria Formosa e o oceano: modelação numérica do transporte de matéria em suspensão
Pretende-se compreender a dinâmica de trocas de nutrientes, clorofila e material particulado entre a Ria Formosa e o oceano, e a influência dos principais forçamentos (e.g. maré) nesta dinâmica. A influência dosforçamentos ambientais na dinâmica de trocas Ria ± oceano foi estudada com um modelo hidrodinâmico (SELFE) e um de transporte (VELApart). Foram simulados diversos cenários de vento, batimetria e descarga de efluentes de estações de tratamento de águas residuais. Os resultados sugerem uma influência significativa do vento e da batimetria na exportação de matéria em suspensão para o exterior da Ria a escalas temporais curtas. O local de descarga dos efluentes das estações de tratamento de águas residuais combinado com o efeito da maré influencia a distribuição espacial da massa no interior da Ria e os tempos de exportação para o exterior. Os padrões de transporte estimados podem contribuir para melhorar a gestão da Ria Formosa.
Ano: 2014
Número Páginas:
221-224pp.
Autor(es): Fabião, J.; Rodrigues, M.; Fortunato, A. B.; Jacob, J.; Cravo, A.
Editor: Actas das 3as Jornadas de Engenharia Hidrográfica - Instituto Hidrográfico
Keywords: Etar; Modelação hidrodinâmica; Batimetria; Vento; Modelos lagrangeano
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Dynamics of exchanges between the Ria Formosa and the ocean: role of environmental forcings
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Ano: 2014
Número Páginas:
128p.
Autor(es): Fabião, J.; Rodrigues, M.; Jacob, J.; Cravo, A.; Fortunato, A. B.; Cardeira, S.; Azevedo, A.; Bruneau, N.
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Flood risk assessment in estuaries. The importance of historical data integration in predictive tools development
Floods in estuaries can be driven by differentforcingmechanismsfromocean andinland sourcesand areoftenaggravatedin urban areas by insufficient drainageconditions. Sea-level rise andextreme climate eventscan exacerbate water levelsinside theestuaries.Developments are being made to reducethe uncertainty offorecast tools in order to providereliableflood predictions that can support riskassessment and managementstrategies. The integration of historical events dataanalysisin hazard forecastingcancontribute to a betterknowledge ofthe dominantflooddriversandtoimprove thevalidationof the models.In the present work adata baseofhistorical flood events
Ano: 2014
Número Páginas:
1pp.
Autor(es): Freire, P.; Fortunato, A. B.; Rilo, Ana; Bertin, X.; Li., K
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Influence of nonlinear waves on oscillatory boundary layers
When waves approach the shoreline, they are affected by the seabed and undergothrough several changes due to non-linear effects. . These local nonlinearities cause thewaves to transform, inducing changes at the free surface and on the near-bed oscillatory flow,which is directly linked to sediment transport. This paper provides further insights concerningthe influences of nonlinear waves on the bottom oscillatory boundary layer through the considerationof different analytical free-stream velocity descriptions for nonlinear waves. Theresults show important differences relatively to the structure of the boundary layer of sinusoidalflows. For example, acceleration-skewed flows reveal that the onshore velocity generatesthinner boundary layers and larger bed shear stresses. Moreover, the phase difference betweenthe free-stream velocity and the bed shear stress is also affected, being reduced withthe increase of the nonlinearities.
Ano: 2014
Número Páginas:
2016-2025pp.
Autor(es): Abreu, T.; Silva, P. A.; Sancho, F. E.; Vasconcelos, L.
Editor: M. Papadrakakis, M.G. Karlaftis, N.D. Lagaros
Keywords: Bed shear stress; Velocities; Laminar flows; Wave boundary layer; Nonlinear waves
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Management of estuarine and coastal ecosystems: observatories as effective tools to predict and anticipate changes
N/A
Ano: 2014
Número Páginas:
82p.
Autor(es): Rodrigues, M.; Oliveira, A.; Fortunato, A. B.; Queiroga, H.; David, L. M.; Brotas, V.; Costa, J.; Rogeiro, J.; Jesus, G.; Gomes, J. L.; Azevedo, A.
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Modelling beach morphological changes during episodic erosion-recovery events: preliminary results
Episodic and seasonal beach-dune system erosion, unlike long-term erosion, are, in general, followed by natural beach-dune recovery. This study, developed based on numerical modelling, is focused on the wind driven waves onshore and offshore induced sediment fluxes and resulting beach-dune morphological evolution, particularly on the underlying physics not yet fully understood, during episodic events of erosion-recovery. The objective is to improve the prediction capacity of the short to medium-term morphodynamic numerical model XBeach, particularly in what concerns the beach recovery phenomenon, and thus contribute to its credible application.
Ano: 2014
Número Páginas:
233-236.
Autor(es): Oliveira, F. S. B. F.
Keywords: Morphodynamics; Episodic event; Beach recovery; Beach erosion
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Suscetibilidade à inundação de margens estuarinas. Aplicação à baía do Seixal (estuário do Tejo, Portugal)
As áreas marginais estuarinas são, normalmente, densamente povoadas, possuindo atividadescom elevado valor económico e concentração de infraestruturas críticas. Os processos de inundaçãonestas áreas devem-se à conjugação de fatores como caudais fluviais, maré e eventos de sobrelevaçãometeorológica. A previsível subida do nível médio do mar (NMM) e o aumento da frequência deocorrência de eventos extremos são fatores relevantes na gestão destas zonas e que devem serconsiderados na definição de medidas de gestão, tal como definido na Diretiva Europeia deInundações. Este trabalho avalia a suscetibilidade à inundação da baía do Seixal, para diferentesperíodos de retorno e para um cenário extremo de subida do NMM. Os níveis de água foram obtidosatravés de modelação hidrodinâmica e implantados num Modelo Digital de Elevação com ainformação relativa ao uso do solo. Os resultados permitiram determinar a extensão das áreaspotencialmente inundadas por classe de uso do solo.
Ano: 2014
Número Páginas:
317-320pp.
Autor(es): Rilo, Ana; Fortunato, A. B.; Freire, P.; Li., K; Tavares, A.
Editor: Actas das 3as Jornadas de Engenharia Hidrográfica - Instituto Hidrográfico
Keywords: Áreas inundáveis; Sobrelevação meteorológica; Nível médio do mar; Estuários; Uso do solo
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Livros
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MEC2011 - Conferência sobre Morfodinâmica Estuarina e Costeira
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Ano: 2011
Autor(es): Fortunato, A. B.; Freire, P.; Oliveira, A.
Editor: Laboratório Nacional de Engenharia Civil
Volume:
CD Room.
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Capítulos de Livros
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Evaluating the geomorphologic stability of an estuarine sandy beach. Integrated Coastal Zone Management
The hydrodynamics and sediment dynamics of a low energy estuarine beach was analysed. The beach is subjected to local wind waves generated in an area of restricted fetch, wake waves generated by catamarans and a semi diurnal meso-tidal regime. Only storm events of short duration modify the beach profile, which, once the normal hydrodynamic conditions are restored, naturally recovers its initial shape. The beach is characterised by having a steep upper slope until mean sea level, followed, seaward, by a low gradient terrace, and a bimodal sediment distribution. To investigate the hydro sedimentologic beach behaviour, wind, topo-hydrographic and sedimentologic data were used as input and validation of process based numerical modelling. Wave generation and transformation in an area of restricted fetch, nearshore circulation, sediment transport and morphological evolution were simulated for average annual conditions and storm conditions. The statistical analysis of a six-year wind data series allowed to derive the average wind regime, based on which, the average annual wave regime and the average annual longshore sediment budget, 14.5x103 m3year-1, were calculated. The contribution of the individual components of the representative wave regime, discretised by directional sector and height class of incidence, was evaluated as well as the spatial distribution of the longshore sediment transport in the active part of the beach profile. The characteristics of the wave groups generated by the passage of catamarans at different speeds were estimated and their action on the beach morphology was simulated. Although when the catamarans travel at 20 knots speed the average annual wake wave energy dissipated at the beach is 2.5 times higher than the average annual wind wave energy, the erosion effect on the beach profile is still not relevant for the present traffic. In opposition, short duration storm events generate the formation of an erosion scarp at the upper part of the beach face. The numerical modelling of this phenomenon allowed to acknowledge on the protective effect that the low gradient terrace has on the beach face.
Ano: 2009
Número Páginas:
pp. 35-49.
Autor(es): Oliveira, F. S. B. F.; Vargas, C.
Editor: Wiley-Blackwell Publishing
Volume:
Integrated Coastal Zone Management.
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Teses de Doutoramento
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Three-dimensional modelling of cohesive sediment transport in estuarine environments
N/A
Ano: 1995
Autor(es): Costa, R.
Editor: ******
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A Two-Dimensional Hydrodynamic Model Using a Finite-Volume Approach
A two-dimensional model of wind-driven circulation in a closed basin was developed using a finite-volume technique for generalized curvilinear grids and applying some of the recent developments in hydrodynamic modeling. The terms in the Navier¬Stokes equations were treated separately according to the fractional step method and the propagation step, including the continuity equation and the pressure and stress terms in the momentum equations, was solved using a conjugate gradient method.The model was then applied to a number of test cases to examine the feasibility of the approach used by comparing with results obtained with the two-dimensional version of the three-dimensional model CH3D. These included a square basin with constant slope and with a V-shaped bottom and Lake Okeechobee, in South Florida. To evaluate the long-term numerical stability of the model, a ten-day model simu¬lation with varying wind was also run for Lake Okeechobee.
Ano: 1989
Autor(es): Capitao, J.
Editor: ******
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Flow-Fine Sediment Hysteresis in Sediment-Stratified Coastal Waters
An examination of the causes for generation and dynamics of turbidity maxima in estuaries reveals the critical role of sediment tidal pumping phenomenon and, to a lesser extent, of the well-known effect of residual gravitational circulation due to salt water penetration. Both phenomena depend on the vertical sediment concentration profile and, consequently, on the magnitude of the vertical mass transport fluxes. Where high concentration suspensions occur regularly, the erosion/deposition fluxes can be drastically modified by sediment stratification, consequently influencing sus¬pended sediment response to currents and wave action. This influence is inherent in flow-sediment hysteresis, which therefore reflects the role of vertical mass transport in the estuarine and coastal suspended fine sediment regime.A vertical transport numerical model was used to investigate the influence of several key parameters describing sediment settling, bed properties and stabilized diffusion on the concentration profile. The model was also applied to simulate the influence of the same parameters on the time-lagged sediment response to flow variations, reflected in the characteristics of flow-sediment hysteresis loops.Field data obtained in Hangzhou Bay (People´s Republic of China), a high concentration environment, showed typical features of flow-sediment hysteresis and confirmed the importance of the vertical mass fluxes in contributing to sediment transport in the bay. A qualitative simulation provided by the numerical model, using settling parameters corresponding to local sediment, while confirming the importance of the hysteresis phenomenon, also revealed the critical need to use algorithms describing adequately stabilized diffusion and bed fluxes.Additional evidence of hysteresis was obtained through analysis of microscale variables, such as the Reynolds stresses and the variances of the velocity components resulting from combined effects of wave action and turbulence. Spectral analysis of the measured random variations did not support the commonly accepted hypothesis of similarity between the responses to turbulent flow of sediment concentration and temperature. The normalized turbulent intensities for all the measured veloc¬ity components showed their highest values during the period of lowest sediment concentration; this result is consistent with the hypothesis of turbulent intensity damping by suspended sediment.
Ano: 1989
Autor(es): Costa, R.
Editor: ******
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Alimentação artificial de praias
A contribution to increased use and development of the method of artificial nourishment of beaches is the main objective of this thesis. It also aims at being a guide for the design of the reconsctrution or outright creation of beaches.In the first chapter, the subject is introduced and the objectives of the thesis are outlined. The second chapter cover´s some general considerations on littoral dynamics, beach equilibrium and sediment budget.Since the theoretical foundations of the artificial nourishment of beaches still leave much to be desired, a description of this method and its principles are presented in the third chapter. Important technical and economic aspects are included, such as: sampling, analysis and characterization of native and borrow material; selection Of nourishment sources; extraction and transport of borrow sand; and characteristics of the theoretical final beach profile. Such problems as the integration of ecological aspects, and cost-benefit analysis are also treated.in the fourth chapter, the Portuguese experience in this domain is described. The experience of such countries as France and the U.S., where this method has frequently been used is also mentioned. In this way a considerable amount of hitherto scattered information is presented in a unified way.The fifth chapter, treats briefly the problem of coastal model similitude, both as a support for the experimental work: which was carried out and to help engineers in the design of a coastal physical model or in merely assessing the possibilities of such a model.In the sixth chapter, an experimental study is described of the influence of both the grain size of borrow material and the nourishment method on the redistribution of sediments after the nourishment. The obtained results are compared with existing theoretical methods and some prototype results.Finally, in the last chapter the main conclusions and recomendations of the thesis are presented.
Ano: 1987
Autor(es): Clímaco, M.
Editor: ******
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Solution of Advection-Dominated Transport by Eulerian-Lagrangian Methods Using Backwards Method of Characteristics
We provide a systematic analysis of the consistency, stability, convergence and accuracy of the numerical solution of the transport equation by a general Eulerian-Lagrangian Method (ELM). The method involvesthree basic steps: the backwards tracking of characteristic lines following the flow, the interpolation of concentrations at the feet of these lines, and the solution of dispersion taking such concentrations as initial conditions. The first two steps constitute the Backwards Method of Characteristics (BMC); the third step involves a time-discretization along the characteristic lines, and a spatial discretization of the dispersion operator, both based on conventional techniques (e.g.. Euler or Crank¬Nicholson for time; finite-elements or finite-differences for space).The choice of the spatial interpolator is shown to impact the consistency, stability and convergence, as well as the accuracy of the BMC. Most interpolators ensure consistency, but only a few ensure stability, hence convergence; stability criteria are derived from a newly developed generalized Fourier analysis, which can account for non-linearities introduced by quadratic grids. The comparison of formally derived propagation and truncation errors, complemented by numerical experimentation, provides a reference for the choice of the interpolator, given a specific transport problem characterized by prevailing concentration gradients.The BMC potentiates the use of large time-steps, well above Courant number of order one. In the limiting case of pure advection, optimal accuracy would be obtained for a At close to the total time of interest; the presence of dispersion constrains, however, the size of At, especially in the case of non-uniform flows. The comparison of the truncation errors for the three basic steps of ELM provides a reference to select At. as a function of Ax, of the spatial interpolators and time-discretization schemes, and of the gradients of flow and concentrations.
Ano: 1987
Autor(es): Melo Baptista, A.
Editor: ******
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Accurate Numerical Modeling of Advection-Dominated Transport of Passive Scalars. A Contribution
Apresenta-se um estudo sistemático, baseado simultaneamente em análises formais e em experimentação numérica, da precisão e estabilidade da solução da equação de transporte por um método Euleriana-Lagrangeana (MEL). 0 método decompõe a equação de transporte em equações separadas de advecção e de difusão, resolvendo a primeira pelo método das características regressivas no tempo (MCR), e a segundo por um método de elementos finitos, do tipo Galerkin.Mostra-se que as interpolações no espaço requeridas pelo MCR são um factor limitativo da precisão global do MEL, e comparam-se diversas técnicas alternativas de interpolação, algumas das quais originais. A combinação de esquemas compactos e não-compactos de interpolação, baseados em polinómios de Lagrange, é apontada como uma potencial solução óptima.Demonstra-se que, para uma adequada escolha do esquema de interpolação, o MCR é consistente, estável e convergente e tem boas características de precisão. Escolhas inadequadas do esquema de interpolação podem, no entanto, causar instabilidade e inconsistência.Estabelece-se a dependência da precisão do MCR no passo de cálculo, mostrando-se que essa precisão aumenta, em geral (para um tempo total fixo), quando se reduz o número de passos de cálculo, isto é, quando se aumenta o passo de cálculo (uma propriedade simultaneamente pouco habitual e muito conveniente). No entanto, na gama de valores muito pequenos do Número de Courant, a precisão é praticamente independente do passo de cálculo, o que evita que o método se torne divergente.Analisa-se brevemente o efeito de malhas irregulares e pluridimensionais sobre a aplicabilidade e precisão do MCR. Apesar de sensível à irregularidade da malha, o método mantém boas características de precisão desde que as distorções geométricas não sejam excessivas. Malhas pluri-dimensionais, quando simultaneamente irregulares, levantam problemas específicos de aplicabilidade de esquemas não-compactos de interpolação; esses problemas poderão se resolvidos através da utilização conjugada de esquemas compactos e não-compactos, para um mesmo problema. Investigação adicional a ainda requerida nestas áreas.Mostra-se ainda que a presença de mecanismos físicos de difusão beneficia tanta a precisão da solução da equação de advecção como a precisão global do MEL.Finalmente, demonstra-se a eficácia da aplicação do MEL (numa forma particular, restricta a esquemas de interpolação compactos) à simulação do transporte de poluentes em águas costeiras. 0 método permite, em particular, realizar simulações longas (várias marés) a custos moderados, mesma para malhas irregulares com elevado número de nós, e, também, evitar a necessidade do uso de difusividades artificiais como garante de estabilidade; em geral, e nestes dois aspectos em particular, o método revela-se superior a métodos Eulerianos, mais convencionais (por exemplo, métodos de elementos finitos, do tipo Galrkin ou Petrov-Galerkin, aplicados à equação de transporte indivisa).
Ano: 1986
Autor(es): Melo Baptista, A.
Editor: ******
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Sobre a Avaliação de Parâmetros de Qualidade de Água por Detecção Remota: Suspensões
No âmbito de um projecto de investigação intitulado caracterizarão de Formações Estuárias e do Meio Marítimo Litoral Por Técnicas de Detecção Remota , insere-se o estu¬do da avaliação de suspensões na água do mar com recurso à aplicação de técnicas de detecção remota como meio de caracterização de parâmetros de qualidade de água. 0 trabalho que se apresenta foi desenvolvido com os seguintes objectivos:1- Desenvolvimento de metodologias de análise e quantificação de suspensões na água do mar a partir de dados de satélite;2- Implementação sob forma de programas para computador de modelos de quantificação de suspensões orgânicas e inorgânicas na água do mar, a aplicar aos dados do radiómetro CZCS do satélite NIMBUS-7;3- Aplicação e verificação do modelo ao litoral português.Corn vista à consecussão destes objectivos, começa-se por apresentar uma extensa análise das formas de abordagem do problema, enumerando-se os diversos métodos actualmente seguidos, nomeadamente o Empírico, o Teórico e, neste, os métodos microscópico e macroscópico.Com base nesta análise, propõe-se um modelo numérico de quantificção das suspensões a partir dos dados do radiómetro CZCS do satélite NIMBUS-7, o qual, embora empírico na sua formulação como a maioria dos actualmente existentes, se apoia no comportamento radiomótrico da água do mar e dos seus constituintes típicos, cujas características se apresentam também.A implementação prática do modelo exige a filtragem da componente atmosférica presente nos dados rediométricos. Com este objectivo, apresenta-se um modelo baseado na metodo¬logia correntemente utilizada. Consiste na consideração da difusão simples, causada pelos constituintes básicos da atmosfera (moléculas gasosas, aerosóis e ozono) na gama de comprimentos de onda considerada (440, 520, 550 e 670nm). Esta metodologia conduz, porém, a um sistema de equações indeterminado e que é resolvido pela consideração de uma equação ´exterior´ ao processo de transferência radiativa que tem lugar na atmasfera. Para este efeito, utilizou-se a equação de Smith e Wilson por ser a mais divulgada, ressalvando-se, contudo, a necessidade de verificação da sua efectiva aplicação às águas do litoral português, o oqe não foi possível concretizar dada a inexistência de dados.
Ano: 1986
Autor(es): Oliveira, E. M.
Editor: ******
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Eulerian-Lagrangian Analysis of Pollutant Transport in Shallow Water
A numerical method for the solution of the two-dimensional, unsteady, transport equation is formulated, and its accuracy is tested.The method uses a Eulerian-Lagrangian approach, in which the transport equation is divided into a diffusion equation (solved by a finite element method) and a convection equation (solved by the method of characteristics). This approach leads to results that are free of spurious oscillations and excessive numerical damping, even in the case where advection strongly dominates diffusion. For pure diffusion problems, optimal accuracy is approached as the time-step, At, goes to zero; conversely, for pure-convection problems, accuracy improves with increasing At; for convection-diffusion problems the At leading to optimal accuracy depends on the characteristics of the spatial discretization and on the relative importance of convection and diffusion.The method is cost-effective in modeling pollutant transport in coastal waters, as demonstrated by an illustrative application to a case study (sludge dumping in Massachusetts Bay). Numerical diffusion is eliminated or greatly reduced, raising the need for realistic estimation of dispersion coefficients. Costs (based on CPU time) should not exceed those of conventional Eulerian methods and, in some cases (e.g., problems involving predictions over several tidal cycles), considerable savings may even be achieved.
Ano: 1984
Autor(es): Melo Baptista, A.
Editor: ******
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Sobre a Propagação de Ondas do Mar em Regiões Costeiras. Análise pelo Método dos Elementos Finitos
0 principal objectivo desta tese é mostrar a habilidade do métodos dos elementos finitos e do método dos elementos de fronteira na modelação das ondas gravíticas de superfície.Na análise linear, as equações reduzidas do movimento ondulatório são resolvidas pelo método dos elementos finitos, levando em linha de conta a reflexão parcial, a radiação e o atrito de fundo. A modelação da radiação é feita com elementos infinitos ou com elementos de radiação, sendo estes encarados como um caso particular dos elementos de reflexão. 0 atrito de fundo é introduzido após a discretização e é levado a efeito através de um coeficiente empírico que se pode relacionar com o coeficiente de Chezy.Quer o modelo determinístico quer o modelo estocástico, obtido do primeiro com base na noção do estimador natural, permitem a realização de ensaios de ressonância ou de agitação. Nos ensaios de ressonância de uma bacia portuária tem particular interesse o conhecimento do espectro de resposta ao ruído bran¬co de banda limitada.A título de exemplo de aplicação mostram-se alguns aspectos do estudo das condições de ressonância do porto de Leixões.Logo que não sejam válidas as hipóteses simplificativas que permitem uma abordagem linear das ondas gravíticas de superfície, são resolvidas as equações não lineares do movimento ondulatório com superfície livre, pelo método dos elementos de fronteira. As suas peculiaridades permitem, sem qualquer dúvida, considerar o método dos elementos de fronteira como o mais vocacionado para este tipo de análise.Os programas de cálculo automático para o estudo da análise não linear estão ainda em fase de teste, pelo que não se apresentam exemplos de aplicação.
Ano: 1982
Autor(es): Portela, A.
Editor: ******
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Numerical simulation of the tidal flow in homogeneous estuaries
Este trabalho é dirigido principalmente para o uso da simulação numérica dos escoamentos em estuários como uma ferramenta pa¬ra estudos de engenharia. Fazem-se algumas considerações gerais sobre a definição e classificação de estuários seguidas por uma descrição sumária da hidrodinâmica dos estuários. Descrevem-se e comparam-se as várias técnicas utilizadas na solução de problemas de hidradinâmica de stuários.Faz-se a dedução formal de um modelo matemático do escoamento em estuários homogéneos e integram-se verticalmente as suas e¬quações, obtendo-se as conhecidas equações do escoamento em águas pouco profundas ("shallow water equations"). Estas equações são discretizadas utilizando os métodos dos elementos finitos e das diferenças finitas, respectivamente no espaço e no tempo.Faz-se a descrição de um sistema de cálculo para determinar a solução do modelo matemático discretizado e tecem-se várias considerações acerca do seu desenvolvimento e uso.Finalmente apresentam-se os resultados de alguns testes utilizados para verificar o funcionamento do sistema de cálculo.
Ano: 1981
Autor(es): Figueira, P.
Editor: ******
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Relatórios
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Modelo matemático de evolução de linhas de costa. Aplicação a casos de alimentação artificial de praias.
N/A
Ano: 1995
Autor(es): Vicente, C.
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Programa provisional para estudos sobre infra-escavações.
N/A
Ano: 1995
Autor(es): Pires Elias, N.; Oliveira, E. M.
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Restabelecimento da ligação da lagoa de Óbidos ao mar. Dragagens de canais interiores
N/A
Ano: 1995
Autor(es): Vicente, C.; Clímaco, M.
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Scoping study on integrated environmental assessment of coastal zones.
N/A
Ano: 1995
Autor(es): Silva, M. C.; de Vrees, L.; Medina, J. M.
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Scoping study on integrated environmental assessment of coastal zones.
N/A
Ano: 1995
Autor(es): Silva, M. C.; de Vrees, L.; Medina, J. M.
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Standardisation of consolidation tests and sample characterisation.
N/A
Ano: 1995
Autor(es): Costa, R. G.; Freire, P.
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Aperfeiçoamento de metodologias de modelação aplicáveis a projectos de alimentação artificial de praias
N/A
Ano: 1994
Autor(es): Vicente, C.; Clímaco, M.
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Avaliação das reservas submarinas de areia na costa sul da Ilha da Madeira. Trecho: Cabo Girão - Madalena do Mar
N/A
Ano: 1994
Autor(es): Vicente, C.; Clímaco, M.
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Caracterização de aspectos fisiográficos de praias da costa portuguesa. Orla litoral da ria de Aveiro
N/A
Ano: 1994
Autor(es): Vicente, C.; Clímaco, M.
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Dique-Leste Taipa-Coaloane: Estudo Hidráulico e Sedimentológico em Modelo Físico.
N/A
Ano: 1994
Autor(es): Oliveira, E. M.
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Outros
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Estuarine and coastal morphodynamics
N/A
Ano: 2015
Autor(es): Fortunato, A. B.; Bertin, X.; Coco , G.; Concejo, A.; Dias, J. M.; Fernandes, E.; Larson, M.; Matias, A.; Oliveira, A.; Silva, P. A.; Dias, J. A.; Azeiteiro, U.; Costa , M.; Boski, T.
Keywords: coastal; Estuarine
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