Publicações

Tidal currents in an estuary carry all types of dissolved, suspended or floating material. Particle tracking models constitute powerful tools in assessing the transport of this material, through the study of the particles trajectoriesand settling positions. Thus, this work aims at using a Lagrangian particle tracking model driven by hydrodynamic fields to study the impact of morphologic anthropogenic and natural changes in sediments transport at Ria de Aveiro. In fact, as many coastal systems, Ria de Aveiro is in progressive degradation associated to the lack of maintenance and to the strong currents occurring in its channels, which erode theirprotective walls. Hence, the model VELApart, which is driven by the hydrodynamic model ELCIRC (previously calibrated for this lagoon), was applied for two configurations of the Ria de Aveiro: one representing the present situation of the lagoon and another representing a scenario with the enlargement of its flooded area. According tomodel results, morphologic changes influence the sediments pathways and final position, as well as the settling time. Generally for the flooded bathymetry the sediments travel a longer distance and the preferential zones of deposition are inside the flooded area, while for the present configuration sediments settle down in the mainadjacent channels. The settling times also increase with the enlargement of the flooded area.

This study discusses site-specific system optimizationefforts related to the capability of a coastal videostation to monitor intertidal topography. The systemconsists of two video cameras connected to a PC, and isoperating at the meso-tidal, reflective Faro Beach (Algarvecoast, S. Portugal). Measurements from the period February4, 2009 to May 30, 2010 are discussed in this study.Shoreline detection was based on the processing of varianceimages, considering pixel intensity thresholds for featureextraction, provided by a specially trained artificial neuralnetwork (ANN). The obtained shoreline data return ratewas 83%, with an average horizontal cross-shore root meansquare error (RMSE) of 1.06 m. Several empiricalparameterizations and ANN models were tested to estimatethe elevations of shoreline contours, using wave and tidaldata. Using a manually validated shoreline set, the lowestRMSE (0.18 m) for the vertical elevation was obtainedusing an ANN while empirical parameterizations based onthe tidal elevation and wave run-up height resulted in anRMSE of 0.26 m. These errors were reduced to 0.22 m afterapplying 3-D data filtering and interpolation of thetopographic information generated for each tidal cycle.Average beach-face slope tan(

Colwyn Bay beach is undergoing a process of erosion. The present study aims at characterizing the beachdynamics and developing alternative solutions for beach rehabilitation and protection. The method applied tocharacterize the foreshore morphological evolution was the assessment of the shoreline evolution, the analysis ofthe foreshore 3D evolution and the analysis of cross-shore profile evolution. The sedimentologic contents of thebeach were characterized based on the analysis of superficial samples. The hydrodynamic characterization wasbased on the analysis of the wave climate at three inshore points in front of the beach and of the tidal and surgelevels. These data provided the necessary information for the characterization of the longshore transport andevaluation of the beach active zone. The first part of developing alternative solutions was the definition of theoptimum long-term recharged beach profile, which, due to the high tidal range, was calculated based on the2S-EBP method. The beach berm was designed to avoid direct wave action on the seawall existent at the beachbackshore. For that, a morphodynamic model was applied to test the beach retreat under storm events. Finally,alternative long-term solutions based on a nourishment strategy were tested with two shoreline evolution models.Two initial alternative solutions of beach recharge with different grain size sand followed by six alternativesolutions of beach recharge with sand retention structures arrangements were tested. The results, herequalitatively and qu

New experiments under sheet flow conditions were conducted in an oscillating water tunnel to study the effects of flow acceleration on sand transport.The simulated hydrodynamic conditions considered flow patterns that drive cross-shore sediment transport in the nearshore zone: the wave nonlinearitiesassociated with velocity and acceleration skewness and a negative mean current, the undertow. Net transport rates were evaluated from the sedimentbalance equation and show that (1) the acceleration skewness in an oscillatory flow produces a net sediment transport in the direction of the highestacceleration; (2) the net transport in the presence of an opposing current is negative, against the direction of the highest acceleration, and reduces with anincrease in flow acceleration; and (3) velocity skewness increases the values of the net onshore transport rates.

This article defines short-term (tidal cycle) sediment-transport patterns at a backbarrier beach based on detailed fieldstudies. Fieldwork was planned to record nonstorm, spring tide conditions that enable the definition of backgroundsediment dynamics at the study area. The experiment was set at two beach morphologies: beach face and sandbank.Current meters were deployed at both sites. Fluorescent tracer techniques were applied to determine rates and directionof transport. Topographic surveys and sediment sampling were undertaken. During the experiment, limited tracerdisplacement and small morphological changes occurred. The low magnitude changes are representative of predominant,low-energy hydrodynamic conditions. Sediment transport was primarily longshore orientated and dependent on thevelocity of tidal currents. Tidal currents had the potential for sediment transport only during a short period of the tidalcycle and had higher velocities during ebb, which results in a net sediment transport orientated towards the nearby inlet.It is suggested that there is dependence on sediment transport rate at the study site and on the variability of tidalcurrents, which are greatly influenced by the distance to, and conditions of, the nearby Anca

The hydrodynamics of the surf zone in front of collapsing coastal dunes are examined. The data was gatheredduring the HYDRALAB-III funded Transnational Access experiment performed at the CIEM large-scale waveflume. Here, it is presented results of the cross-shore evolution of several flow parameters at four positions. Despikedand band-pass filtered ADV velocity data were used to enable a focus on only the short-wave component.As the waves approach the shore they reduce their (velocity) skewness, but increase their vertical asymmetry.Despite the non-negligible wave reflection, the theoretical wave model of Abreu et al. (2010) was applied tosuccessfully reproduce the measured velocities. Lastly, an estimate of the bed shear stress exerted by the shortwavecomponents is presented.

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Due to the increasing demand of sand for construction and beach nourishment, offshore extraction is being considered as an alternative source. Long term morphological changes caused by such an extraction must bepredicted because they can affect the sediments budget and potentially promote coastal erosion. Numerical models are powerful tools that can help in the evaluation of environmental impacts induced by this activity.The objective of this study is to describe the morphodynamics in the area surrounding a sandpit through the use of the MORSYS2D modelling system. The sandpit under study is located offshore Vale do Lobo, an importantbeach and golf resort located on the Southern Portuguese coast. The numerical solutions of the mean flow and the wave height around the pit were obtained with MORSYS2D between March 28 and April 29, 2008 when two storm events with significant wave height (Hs) greater than 2.5 m occurred.The numerical results are analysed in terms of the sand fluxes and bathymetry changes induced by wind and tidal currents and wave orbital velocities. The results show the strong impact of storm events in the morphologic evolution of the pit and surrounding area. The value for Hs > 2.5m was also confirmed as determinant for thesediment dynamics.

A simple analytical formulation that reproduces a skewed, nonlinear near-bed wave orbital velocity is presented. It contains four free parameters, where two are solely related to the velocity and accelerationskewnesses. The equation is compared with other models and is validated against field and laboratoryexperiments. The results reveal that it can simulate a wide range of nonlinear wave shapes, reproducing satisfactorily the measured nonlinear wave particle velocity. Also, the new expression overcomes somelimitations of the other models. The new formulation is therefore capable of being used in many engineering applications that require the use of representative wave forms.

Three models were applied to analyse the planform of bay-shaped Portuguese beaches. They are based on empirical mathematical functions: the logarithmic spiral bay equation, the hyperbolic tangent bay equation, and the parabolic bay equation. These models were applied to analyse the fitting to the beach planform of 42 beaches on the Portuguese Atlantic coast which was calculated through the validation against the waterline extracted from rectified aerial photographs. The logarithmic spiral model fits well the curved zone of the beaches, in particular small beaches with two headlands. Despite the good fitting of the hyperbolic tangent model for one headland beach, its process of approximation to the solution was less intuitive than the processes of the other two models, therefore its application was more exhaustive. A comparative analysis between the logarithmic spiral model and the hyperbolic tangent model revealed the best fit of the first. The application of the parabolic model allowed to conclude that despite the majority of the beaches analysed being in dynamic equilibrium condition due to the high energy wave regime of the Portuguese Atlantic coast, their planform was very close to the planform in static equilibrium condition due to the high dynamics of the coastal environment

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Large-scale physical model tests are ongoing at CIEM wave flume of the Polytechnic University of Catalonia. This paper presents some aspects of the study aimed to analyze the effect of wave storm events on dune erosion and overwash processes. Two different regimes of storm attack on the sandy beach/dune system are investigated: a collision regime with swash and runupto the dune face and an overwash regime with wave run-up overtopping the dune crest (Sallenger et al. 2003). Eight run tests are performed with a combination of four irregular wave conditions and two different water depths. Detailed measurements in time and space of profile evolution, hydrodynamics, sediment concentration, overtopping rate and photogrammetric surveyare carried out.

The economical and ecological importance of tidal inlets have fostered the development of empirical tools for inlet management during the last century. This study aims at confronting these empirical theories with recent process-based numerical models. The 2DH process-based morphodynamic modeling system MORSYS2D is applied to an idealized tidal inlet/lagoon system with six different combinations of significant wave height, tidal range and tidal prism. The model predictions are compared to natural morphologies and then to the empirical models of Hayes, O

The European Water Framework Directive requires that surface water bodies (both fresh andsaline) reach a good ecological status by 2015. Dissolved oxygen is one of the indicators forthe evaluation of the quality of water bodies, because it is essential for the aquatic community.Therefore, integrated tools that allow the study of the oxygen dynamics are useful to supportthe sustainable management of these water bodies. This study aims at extending an existingmodel (ECO-SELFE

Recently, a new set of experiments (Silva et al., 2008) addressed the dynamics of movable beds under oscillatory skewed waves, in the sheet-flow regime. When this sediment mobility regime is attained, most of the transport takes place in a thin layer at the top of the bed-level, and sediment velocities (and fluxes) are quite difficult to measure and estimate. In the present paper we apply a methodology for the estimation of the grain velocity inside the sheet-flow layer, combining cross-correlation techniques with wavelet multilevel decomposition, from measurements of two conductivity concentration meter probes. The results from the new methodology improve significantly the estimates from the simple cross-correlation technique, and yield quite consistent velocity measurements over the entire sheet-flow and for most of the wave phases.

Neste trabalho apresentam-se os principais resultados da evolução morfológica do perfil de praia, a duas escalas em modelo reduzido, com enfoque para as condições de agitação marítima do tipo erosivo. Discutem-se as analogias e discrepâncias observadas, à luz das leis de semelhança adoptadas. Conclui-se ainda, sobre a importância da cota do sopé da defesa longitudinal aderente em relação ao nível de água, com base na significância do efeito da estrutura na evolução do perfil transversal na zona adjacente à obra.

Following the artificial opening of Santo André inlet a long ebb occurred with urrents peaking to 6m/s and excavating a linear V-shaped channel. Sediment eroded from the barrier formed an ebb delta. In the following 1.5 days the channel deepened to -1m (msl), while a flood delta started to accrete. 11 days after breaching the ebb-delta migrated shoreward and partly changed into a swash-bar, inducing southwardrotation of the inlet channel, which became flat-bottomed but remained linear, further incising to -3m. In the following week it accreted and extended southward, inducing meandering and extension of the channel,which started silting up. 25 days after breaching, the swash-bar offset the inlet, the channel became sandchoked,and swash accretion reshaped most of the bar into a berm. During the next 5 days the inlet closed and the berm rapidly accreted to an equilibrium height, with no other significant changes until September.

Under large near-bed oscillatory velocities, sediment transport mainly occurs within a thin layer, known as the sheet flow layer. The structure of the sheet flow layer changes along the wave cycle, with maximum thickness around maximum onshore and off-shore velocities and minima at flow reversals. These changes are intimately related to the lower and upper bounds of the sheet flow layer. In the present work, the intra-wave changes of the sheet flow thickness for oscillatory flows, with acceleration and velocity skewnesses, are analysed based on detailed measurements of the sediment concentration within the bed layer and the backscattered signal of an Acoustic Doppler Velocity Profiler, located above. The results from both measurements are compared and discussed as a function of the physical forcing parameters: net current, flow acceleration and velocity skewnesses.

This work examines the results of a sensitivity analysis of the morphodynamic modeling system MORSYS2D to someimportant parameters, when applied to the Ria de Aveiro lagoon inlet. The sensitivity analysis is performed by tuningthe various formulae used to compute the sediment fluxes and the sediment characteristics (d50). The median sedimentdiameter used in the simulations is assumed uniform over the whole domain (0.5 mm and 1 mm) or specified through avariable grain size grid. This work addresses the implications of these input parameters on the simulation of theevolution of the Ria de Aveiro inlet

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The hydrodynamics and sediment dynamics of a low energy estuarine beach was analysed. The beach is subjected to local wind waves generated in an area of restricted fetch, wake waves generated by catamarans and a semi diurnal meso-tidal regime. Only storm events of short duration modify the beach profile, which, once the normal hydrodynamic conditions are restored, naturally recovers its initial shape. The beach is characterised by having a steep upper slope until mean sea level, followed, seaward, by a low gradient terrace, and a bimodal sediment distribution. To investigate the hydro sedimentologic beach behaviour, wind, topo-hydrographic and sedimentologic data were used as input and validation of process based numerical modelling. Wave generation and transformation in an area of restricted fetch, nearshore circulation, sediment transport and morphological evolution were simulated for average annual conditions and storm conditions. The statistical analysis of a six-year wind data series allowed to derive the average wind regime, based on which, the average annual wave regime and the average annual longshore sediment budget, 14.5x103 m3year-1, were calculated. The contribution of the individual components of the representative wave regime, discretised by directional sector and height class of incidence, was evaluated as well as the spatial distribution of the longshore sediment transport in the active part of the beach profile. The characteristics of the wave groups generated by the passage of catamarans at different speeds were estimated and their action on the beach morphology was simulated. Although when the catamarans travel at 20 knots speed the average annual wake wave energy dissipated at the beach is 2.5 times higher than the average annual wind wave energy, the erosion effect on the beach profile is still not relevant for the present traffic. In opposition, short duration storm events generate the formation of an erosion scarp at the upper part of the beach face. The numerical modelling of this phenomenon allowed to acknowledge on the protective effect that the low gradient terrace has on the beach face.

A presente tese tem como objetivo melhorar a gestão dos sistemas de distribuição de água através da utilização de métodos probabilísticos e estatísticos para analisar os dados de contadores inteligentes. Assim, é proposta uma metodologia para avaliação da incerteza em medições de caudal dinâmicas, baseada apenas nas próprias medições, no método de bootstrap por blocos e no ajustamento de um modelo adequado aos dados em estudo. De seguida, é desenvolvida uma metodologia de amostragem probabilística estratificada dos clientes para identificação de uma amostra representativa onde deverão ser instalados contadores inteligentes, sendo os estratos definidos pelos grupos obtidos numa análise de clusters baseada em dados de faturação. É ainda apresentada uma metodologia para a decomposição¸ de séries temporais de caudal em consumo autorizado, consumo não autorizado, roturas e perdas, utilizando técnicas de suavização de séries temporais e análise do espetro singular (singular sprectum analysis). Por último, são testados alguns métodos robustos e de analise funcional para deteção de valores anómalos em series temporais de caudal.

A compreensão dos impactes das alterações climáticas é fundamental para agestão a longo do prazo dos ecossistemas estuarinos. Esta compreensão sópoderá ser efectiva considerando a variabilidade climática natural e o papelrelativo das intervenções antropogénicas nestes ecossistemas. Assim, apresente dissertação analisa a influência das alterações climáticas e pressõesantropogénicas na qualidade da água e dinâmica ecológica da Ria de Aveirocom base numa abordagem integrada, que combinou a análise de sériestemporais dos últimos 25 anos e a modelação numérica de elevada resoluçãode cenários futuros de alterações climáticas e intervenções antropogénicas.A componente de modelação de qualidade da água e ecológica foi melhoradaa vários níveis. A análise de sensibilidade do modelo 3D hidrodinâmicoecológicoECO-SELFE aplicado à Ria de Aveiro e a revisão das constantes desemi-saturação para absorção de nutrientes pelo fitoplâncton contribuírampara a precisão e robustez das aplicações. A concentração do fitoplâncton foisignificativamente influenciada pelas taxas de crescimento do fitoplâncton e demortalidade e excreção do zooplâncton, e apresentou uma sensibilidadereduzida à variação das constantes de semi-saturação na gama identificadapara as diatomáceas. O acoplamento do ECO-SELFE a um modelo de campopróximo e a integração do ciclo do oxigénio aumentaram a sua capacidade derepresentação dos processos e das escalas espaciais relevantes. A validaçãodo ECO-SELFE foi realizada com base num conjunto de campanhasespecíficas realizadas no canal de Mira. Os padrões espaciais e temporaisobservados para as várias variáveis (clorofila a, nutrientes, oxigénio dissolvido,salinidade, temperatura da água, correntes e níveis) foram simulados comerros menores ou semelhantes aos obtidos neste tipo de aplicações.A análise dos padrões de variabilidade espacial e temporal da qualidade daágua e ecológica na Ria de Aveiro a diferentes escalas, efectuada com basenos dados históricos de 1985 a 2010 complementados pelas campanhasrealizadas, sugeriu uma influência combinada da variabilidade climática e dasacções antropogénicas. Os cenários futuros de alterações climáticas eintervenções antropogénicas simulados evidenciaram uma influência maissignificativa das alterações climáticas quando comparadas com os efeitos dasacções antropogénicas analisadas. As variações mais significativas sãoprevistas para os cenários de subida do nível do mar, seguidos dos cenáriosde alterações dos regimes hidrológicos, evidenciando o papel da circulação(maré e caudal fluvial) no estabelecimento da qualidade da água e dinâmicaecológica na laguna. Para os cenários de subida do nível do mar são previstosdecréscimos significativos da clorofila a e dos nutrientes a jusante e nas zonasintermédias do canal, e um aumento significativo da salinidade a montante.Estas alterações poderão favorecer modificações da composição e distribuiçãodas comunidades, afectando a cadeia alimentar e causando uma progressãopara montante de espécies marinhas. Os resultados sugerem ainda que osefeitos poderão ser mais significativos em estuários pouco profundos.

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A temática dos derrames de hidrocarbonetos continua a ser um assunto de extremaimportância dados os graves impactes continuadamente causados no meio marinho. O desenvolvimentode ferramentas para auxilio às autoridades responsáveis pela gestão costeirano combate e mitigação deste tipo de acidentes é prioritário nos planos estratégicos governamentais.Neste trabalho propõe-se um novo sistema integrado de análise de hidrocarbonetos desenvolvidopara aplicação a derrames em zonas costeiras, portuárias e oceânicas. Desenvolveuseuma nova metodologia baseada na sinergia da modelação numérica com a detecção remotapor satélites. Este sistema integra uma componente de modelação numérica flexível(2D/3D) e um novo algoritmo de segmentação de manchas de hidrocarbonetos observadasem imagens SAR. O algoritmo de detecção remota foi concebido para validar os resultadosdo sistema de modelos. O sistema de modelação baseia-se numa abordagem Euleriana-Lagrangeana para a resolução dos processos de evolução dos hidrocarbonetos, utilizandomalhas não-estruturadas para a representação dos domínios de estudo numa perspectivamulti-escala. O modelo de hidrocarbonetos inclui a maioria dos processos relevantes numderrame à superfície e na coluna de água e inclui um novo algoritmo para a retenção costeiraque considera a dinâmica intertidal para aplicação a domínios praias, lagunas e estuários.Realizaram-se diversas aplicações sintéticas e reais que comprovaram a precisão, robustez,fiabilidade e flexibilidade do sistema integrado, com custos computacionais e níveisde complexidade variável. A aplicação do sistema ao caso Prestige permitiu demonstrarque a sinergia entre a modelação numérica e a detecção remota é uma mais-valia para aprevisão de derrames de hidrocarbonetos no mar e serviu como base para uma análise qualitativada influência da precisão da previsão do vento como agente forçador.Futuramente, o sistema poderá ser aplicado na optimização de planos de contingência,sustentando análises de risco, e em sistemas de alerta e aviso para acidentes de poluição.

As margens estuarinas são constituídas por diversos elementos morfo-sedimentares, interdependentes entre si através de processos hidrodinâmicos, sedimentares, morfológicos e ecológicos. Estas características conferem à zona marginal do estuário uma sensibilidade particular a desequilíbrios entre o suporte morfológico e sedimentar e à acção dos agentes hidrodinâmicos, climáticos e antrópicos. A presente tese contempla o estudo da evolução morfo-sedimentar de margens estuarinas, procurando identificar as condições genéticas, caracterizar e quantificar os processos evolutivos actuais e passados. A área em estudo situa-se na margem sul do estuário interno do Tejo, entre Alcochete e Cacilhas, incluindo a restinga do Alfeite e a baía do Seixal. Efectuou-se a caracterização hidrodinâmica, morfológica e sedimentar da região em estudo e a avaliação dos padrões evolutivos à mesoescala e microescala. O estuário do Tejo é caracterizado por extensas zonas intertidais constituídas por rasos de maré e sapais. Estas áreas são alimentadas por sedimento em suspensão de origem fluvial, redistribuído pelas correntes de maré. Contrastando com o predomínio da sedimentação essencialmente silto-argilosa, surgem na margem sul praias e restingas de natureza arenosa que indicam a actividade de ondas de geração local. A morfologia da restinga do Alfeite evidencia a actividade de ondas, quer na sua formação, quer na sua evolução temporal. A sua instalação, há cerca de 500 anos atrás, terá correspondido a um episódio de mobilização considerável de material grosseiro proveniente de fontes sedimentares próximas - as rochas detríticas miocénicas e pliocénicas. A instalação da restinga proporcionou a manutenção de um ambiente de baixa energia, constituído por rasos de maré e sapais (baía do Seixal). O clima de agitação local está sobretudo relacionado com as nortadas, devido às maiores distâncias de fetch associadas e à intensidade mais elevada dos ventos daquele quadrante. O clima de agitação médio, obtido através de um modelo de previsão da agitação, caracteriza-se por alturas significativas de onda entre 0,2 e 0,4 m e por períodos de zero ascendente de 2 s. Em condições extremas a altura significativa de onda pode atingir 1,3 m. As ondas de geração local no estuário interno têm capacidade para causar a ressuspensão, transporte e acumulação de areias na margem sul, virada às direcções de fetch mais longo. Identificaram-se dois domínios principais de transporte longitudinal, envolvendo um caudal sólido semelhante de 20 000 - 30 000 m3/ano. Estes resultados concordam como as direcções de desenvolvimento e de progradação das restingas de areia. O padrão de dispersão de material sedimentar concorda também com a localização de fontes sedimentares potenciais. A restinga do Alfeite mostra uma variação morfológica evidente nos últimos 150 anos, dominada pelos processos de erosão e envolvendo a redução da área da praia em cerca de 15 ha. As modificações mais importantes ocorreram no período 1930-1979, com uma taxa de erosão média de 0,3 ha/ano, que coincidiu com intensa intervenção antrópica no sistema envolvendo alteração dos balanços sedimentares locais. As taxas de erosão obtidas através da análise evolutiva à mesoescala concordam com os volumes sedimentares avaliados para a deriva litoral local. O padrão evolutivo à microescala da praia do Alfeite mostra igualmente um comportamento particular de resposta a alterações hidrodinâmicas locais e à acção antrópica. O padrão de evolução à mesoescala e microescala da baía do Seixal sugere uma diferença acentuada entre o comportamento das zonas subtidal e intertidal inferior, com alguma dominância dos processos erosivos (com uma taxa de erosão média de 1-2 cm/ano), e o da zona supratidal com taxas de sedimentação relativamente elevadas (1cm/ano). O modelo morfo-sedimentar proposto para a baía do Seixal é essencialmente um modelo de redistribuição de sedimentos entre os rasos de maré superiores e sapais e os canais; resulta a selecção natural entre siltes grosseiros e areia e uma fracção mais fina com componente orgânica importante. À macroescala, o modelo evolutivo proposto será interrompido por episódios de entrada excepcional de material, principalmente através da rede hidrográfica local, associados a eventos extremos. As margens estuarinas são particularmente sensíveis a alterações extremas dos balanços sedimentares locais, sendo clara a interdependência entre a evolução morfológica e a interferência antrópica no sistema.

Os estuários são sistemas ricos em recursos naturais e de grande fragilidade ecológica. O seu uso, como suporte de múltiplas actividades, faz com que seja necessário definir planos de gestão destinados a compatibilizar tais utilizações, salvaguardando o equilíbrio ecológico e a saúde pública. Reviram-se os conceitos de estuário, suas características e tipos. Identificaram-se princípios e metodologias para a sua gestão, que requerem o uso de instrumentos, dentre os quais são objecto central do presente estudo os sistemas de indicadores ambientais. O modelo de enquadramento adoptado foi o de Pressão Estado Resposta. As aplicações do conceito de indicador ambiental a estuários são recentes e limitadas, devido à especificidade destes sistemas, em particular, da coexistência de escalas de tempo distintas no controlo dos processos hidrodinâmicos e das suas características bio-geo-químicas. A caracterização ambiental dum estuário requer a aplicação de uma metodologia que inclui, além de informação de contexto, a identificação das zonas homogéneas, definidas com base em critérios morfológicos, de salinidade e de gestão, e das escalas de tempo relevantes, para definir os domínios de integração espacial e temporal das variáveis observadas, que conduzem aos valores significativos. A estes é removida a dimensão, sendo normalizados por aplicação de operadores algébricos e gráficos, inferindo-se a conformidade com a qualidade ambiental a partir dos valores dos indicadores normalizados. A metodologia inclui a definição de classes de qualidade. A metodologia foi ensaiada no estuário do Tejo. A sua caracterização, cobrindo as temáticas da eutrofização e estado de oxigenação, da qualidade estética e da contaminação bacteriológica e por xenobióticos, demonstrou a exequibilidade do método. Os resultados, se bem que de interesse relativo por recorrerem a dados heterogéneos e, por vezes, sem actualidade, revelam um estuário com baixa susceptibilidade à poluição, onde o incumprimento das normas de emissão pelas fontes poluentes era dominante. Porém, o estado do estuário revelou-se, em grande parte da sua extensão, bom ou excelente relativamente a alguns parâmetros, embora tenham sido identificadas situações de não conformidade. A metodologia é, assim, exequível, mesmo quando aplicada a um estuário complexo como o Tejo, e capaz de diferenciar situações de qualidade ambiental distintas. Constitui um instrumento de gestão útil para o apoio ao planeamento de programas de monitorização, para a sistematização da informação e para a comunicação clara com os responsáveis pelas decisões e com o público.

Eulerian-Lagrangian methods (ELMs) are increasingly used to simulate groundwater and surface water transport and water quality, largely due to their ability to use large time steps and to formally decouple processes with distinct time scales. Yet, two severe limitations remain: (1) ELMs do not inherently conserve mass, AND (2) in multiple dimensions, robust implementations of "higher-order" ELMs are expensive. Our research focused on the understanding of the main sources of errors in ELMs. We analyzed systematically the impact and relative importance of tracking errors, integration errors and forcing by non-conservative flow fields, on measures of mass conservation, overall accuracy and stability. From this analysis, we propose new methodologies and general guidelines towards mass conservative, globally accurate and stable multi- dimensional ELM transport simulations in estuarine and coastal regions. We performed a pioneering study of the influence of tracking errors, demonstrating their very strong negative impact on mass conservation, overall accuracy and stability. Low-order tracking methods are strongly discouraged in the presence of complex flow fields, typical of estuaries, because they are too inaccurate to allow overall mass balance and phase preservation, and they lead to potential instability. We show that the evaluation of the integrals at the feet of the characteristic lines is an important source of mass and overall errors, which can be controlled through grid refinement. To avoid such errors, we develop a new method that combines the flexibility and local mass properties of control volume finite element methods (CVFE), with a new quadrature integration technique. Subdivision quadrature overcomes stability constrains of traditional quadratures and allows for easy implementation in multiple dimensions. We find subdivision quadrature CVFE-ELMs to be an attractive alternative to current finite element ELMs in estuaries and coasts. Non-conservative flow fields are the primary concern for estuarine and coastal applications because ELMs cannot mitigate their effect without jeopardizing overall accuracy. We found bathymetric gradients and complex geometry to be the main sources for flow mass errors, and grid refinement to be inadequate to eliminate them. Consequently, mass imbalances in ELM solutions cannot be removed by grid refinement. Control volume finite elements and conservative-equation-based formulations are equally ineffective in the presence of a non-conservative flow. The problem needs to be addressed at the source, i.e., the circulation models that generate the flows. A detailed analysis of residence times illustrates the importance of improving numerical models, and provides new insights on the variability of residence times in estuarine systems. A new methodology is proposed, which emphasizes the importance of local analysis of residence times to understand the fluxing properties of a complex system, while providing an alternative approach to traditional bulk evaluations of residence times. Key Words: Flow mass conservation. Transport Mass conservation. Transport equation. Eulerian-Lagrangian methods. Finite Volumes. Finite elements. Accuracy Analysis. Residence Times.

The thesis deals with the numerical modelling of random wave propagation in the nearshore region. The mathematical modelling is based on the mild - slope equation.The mild - slope equation has been considered in a linear elliptic form in order to take into account wave refraction, diffraction, and reflections, and therefore to allow for the applicability of the model without constraints even to areas like harbours where reflections play an important role. Owing to the fact that we are dealing with a boundary value problem, the mathematical methods for solving the linear system of equations generated after discretising the governing equation and the boundary conditions imposed are fundamental to developing an efficient numerical model. A range of mathematical methods for solving the linear elliptic form of the mild-slope equation as well as a range of appropriate radiation boundary conditions are analysed, implemented and compared. Comparisons with available results, experimental and numerical, for different cases of study, validate the model for monochromatic waves.To overcome the difficulty of applying the linear elliptic model over large areas, a multigrid technique was deployed in a numerical model of a non-linear transformed form of the mild-slope equation in order to accelerate convergence. This technique was applied to a range of iterative solvers and satisfactory results were obtained.A numerical model of a hyperbolic form of the mild-slope equation, an initial value problem, was also developed and extended in order to test a range of radiation boundary conditions. Results show that "sponge layers" provide the best means of dealing with radiation type boundary conditions.The elliptic model was then further developed by extending it to random waves using the concept of superposition of spectral components. The importance of frequency and directional spreading was investigated. Based on the energy balance equation the phenomenon of breaking of irregular waves in the surf zone was incorporated, using two different approaches, in the model which was applied to cases that had been experimentally studied before. The results from this part of the work are unique and demonstrate the practical usefulness of the model.

STERNA é um sistema de modelos matemáticos para a simulação de processos hidrodinâmicos e de qualidade da água em estuários não-estratificados. Este sistema é constituído pelo modelo hidrodinâmico MOHID, previamente existente, e por um modelo de transporte e por um conjunto de módulos de qualidade da água, desenvolvidos no decurso deste estudo. As equações de conservação da massa e de conservação da quantidade de movimento, do modelo hidrodinâmico, e a equação de advecção-difusão, do modelo de transporte, são resolvidas pelo método das diferenças finitas, a partir de uma formulação bidimensional (2D), integrada na vertical.Descreve-se a aplicação do sistema STERNA ao estuário do Tejo. Os resultados são comparados com observações efectuadas em campanhas do "Estudo Ambiental do Estuário do Tejo". Estas observações compreendem: a) séries temporais de correntes, salinidade, temperatura e sedimentos em suspensão, com cerca de 24 horas de duração; b) séries de valores mensais de salinidade, temperatura, clorofila-a, fosfato, amónia, nitrato, CBO e oxigénio dissolvido, com 4 anos de duração. Verifica-se, para a generalidade dos parâmetros, uma concordância satisfatória entre observações e resultados dos modelos.Os dados de campo e o sistema de modelos proposto servem de suporte a uma análise das características do ambiente no estuário do Tejo. Discutem-se, em particular: as trocas de maré entre o estuário e o exterior; a importância da estratificação de densidade; os fluxos de calor através da superfície; os mecanismos de formação da zona de turvação máxima; os factores responsáveis pela limitação da produção primária fitoplanctónica; os processos envolvidos no ciclo do fósforo e do azoto; e a ocorrência de défices de oxigénio. Conclui-se pela importância de uma abordagem integrada no estudo dos processos estuarinos.Palavras-chave: Modelos matemáticos; método das diferenças finitas; hidrodinâmica de estuários; qualidade da água; estuário do Tejo.

Although three-dimensional (3D) modeling of coastal and estuarine flows is becoming common, several limitations remain related to our ability both to describe and to numerically simulate the correct physics. Two key limitations concern vertical resolution: the lack of flexibility of current methods for vertical discretization prevents the optimal use of computational resources, and guidelines for vertical nodal placement are not available.The major contribution of this thesis is the development, analysis and test of an approach that allows for an unprecedented flexibility in the vertical refinement of the domain. This approach, which we refer to as localized sigma coordinates (LSC), is the first to allow the number of nodes per vertical to vary horizontaly, and can therefore be considered a natural extension to the use of unstructured grids in the horizontal.To take advantege of the LSC, we perform the first systematic study for the vertical discretization in barotropic tidal flow simulations. The resulting optimal grid can reduce the errors relative to a uniform grid by over an order of magnitude and compares favorably with non-uniform grids previously proposed. A criterion to guide the horizontal distribution of the total number of nodes is proposed and discussed in the context of simple one- and two-dimensional models, and is then extended to three dimensions. Accounting for advection in three dimenions forces modifications to the criterion, but the overall concept proved to be useful: using a variable number of nodes per vertical reduces the maximum velocity errors by a factor of two.As part of our analysis of the LSC, we investigate the evaluation of the horizontal gradients in sigma-coordinate shallow water models. We show that horizontal gradients should be computed in sigma rather than z-coordinates, and that the so-called hydrostatic inconsistency typically associated with sigma coordinates does not correspond to a numerical inconsistency. The large errors associated with the evaluation of horizontal gradients can be by-passed through appropriate horizontal resolution, and a procedure to define this resolution is proposed based on results from a truncation error analysis.An application to the Tagus estuary demonstrates the enhanced accuracy provided by the LSC, and provides new insights into the estuarys 3D barotropic circulation. Strong residual currents (depth-averaged eulerian residual velocities of up to 0.5 m/s) are generated by advective accelerations and have a major impact on the mixing characteristics at the mouth of the estuary. The assymetry between ebbing and flooding promotes exchanges between marine and estuarine waters, while he interaction between tidal and residual flows leads to strong chaotic stirring.The good performance of the LSC in a complex application establishes this method as an attractive alternative to the traditional sigma- and z-coordinates.

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